recaulking teak deck

[sandrunner]

I've a 41' Jeanneau with a teak deck. Teak is glued on, not screwed in - no leaks, but caulking is starting to crumble is places. Given the teak is still decent condition, figured the easiest approach would be to recaulk (instead of remove teak and awlgrip).

Couple questions:

1. I'm sailing in a remote locale and need to have caulking shipped internationally - anyone know a way to estimate how many lubes of caulking needed (roughly not precisely)? Anyone that's done it in te past - how many tubes did you burn through?

2. I'm planning on doing the entire deck, but any drawbacks to just do the areas currently in need vs remove all current caulking?

Thanks in advance!

SR!~

[paulajayne]

Basic maths. Measure total calking length and cross sectional area. In MM , multiply one by other will give total volume of calking required.

So if total = 5000 mm 2 and a tube is 500ML (equates roughly to 500mm2 then 10 tubes required.

Add 25%% for safety and 12/13 tubes required.

[Wotname]

Don't forget to get the thin tape that should lie on the bottom of the seam that prevents the caulking from adhering to the deck base itself. The caulking should only adhere to sides of the seams (i.e. the teak) and not to the base.

[BlueChicago]

I've tried to understand why using the strips are necessary. (Honest question)

[FlightPlan]

The caulk needs to expand and compress within the groove. If it is attached to the FG deck, it will break away from the teak. If done correctly, when the teal expands, the caulk should compress and be slightly above the surface of the teak like a smooth ridge.



Also, mask the teak on each side of the groove and be generous with the caulk to be sure you have enough in the groove. Then when it is set up, scrape the caulk first and remove the masking and then sand smooth to the surface.

[SailRedemption]

We ordered 8 cases of 12 tubes each for redoing our boat, a Kaufman 47. We had one case left over I think. Ordered from Jamestown Distributor. I don't know the amount of teak on your boat but it goes quick. Email Teak Deck Systems and they can give you an idea of how many tubes you need. We did an indepth write up of it on our blog. Not sure if I can link it here for whatever reason, but I'll try.

https://redemptiverepair.com/2017/01...-to-love-them/

[chris95040]

Originally Posted by paulajayne

Basic maths. Measure total calking length and cross sectional area. In MM , multiply one by other will give total volume of calking required.

So if total = 5000 mm 2 and a tube is 500ML (equates roughly to 500mm2 then 10 tubes required.

Add 25%% for safety and 12/13 tubes required.

In my experience there was an awful lot of waste - According to the instructions for SIS 440 (a really good caulk for this) you'd apply it quite proud and smear it over with a putty knife, then sand the deck after it cures. I guess I got better as I went along but I'm sure 25% wouldn't have been enough buffer for me.

Remember to wipe the seams with acetone immediately prior to applying - apparently to remove some oil from the surface of the teak which would otherwise negatively impact your bond.

I didn't bother with tape, quite a few folks claim a glued deck doesn't move enough to warrant it. Also, on a glued deck, the caulk seam isn't really as critical a component as it is on a screwed deck.

[sailah]

I remember doing caulking when I was younger on a very large boat. Fuzzy on the details but what I do remember was the massive forearm pump I got from working the caulking gun. Then one of the shipwrights shows me a pneumatic gun. It was walking up a ski hill with skis on vs taking the chair lift

I see that they have 18v battery powered caulking guns now. I'd be for sure finding out about one of those and live with the shame

[FlightPlan]

Originally Posted by chris95040

I didn't bother with tape, quite a few folks claim a glued deck doesn't move enough to warrant it. Also, on a glued deck, the caulk seam isn't really as critical a component as it is on a screwed deck.

In Florida it moves. That is the reason for the caulk in the first place. If it can't, it will start causing splits in the teak itself. Maybe not today, or tomorrow, but someday. You have factors with water, sun and cool evening temperatures.

[Wotname]

Regarding the bond breaker tape, Sikaflex recommends it's use here https://www.bluemoment.com/downloads...usersguide.pdf

I've only recaulked two teak decks (30' boats). It was hard tedious work IME. The first time I didn't use bond breaker tape (because I didn't know about it) and the second time I did (because I read the manufacturers directions first).

Some seams failed on the first one after three or so years; the second one was still going strong after eight years. I don't know if the bond breaker tape made the difference or not.
However it was the easiest part of a long job so I would use it again.

Don't forget the primer.

[sandrunner]

Originally Posted by SailRedemption

We ordered 8 cases of 12 tubes each for redoing our boat, a Kaufman 47. We had one case left over I think. Ordered from Jamestown Distributor. I don't know the amount of teak on your boat but it goes quick. Email Teak Deck Systems and they can give you an idea of how many tubes you need. We did an indepth write up of it on our blog. Not sure if I can link it here for whatever reason, but I'll try.

https://redemptiverepair.com/2017/01...-to-love-them/

Many thanks - exactly what I was looking for (in one of the Qs). Of course I'll measure things up apprx, but having a couple sanity checks sucks as this helps AND many thanks for the link - will read it soon as I'm able!

FYI going with TDS/Jamestown as well.

[sandrunner]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Regarding the bond breaker tape, Sikaflex recommends it's use here https://www.bluemoment.com/downloads...usersguide.pdf

I've only recaulked two teak decks (30' boats). It was hard tedious work IME. The first time I didn't use bond breaker tape (because I didn't know about it) and the second time I did (because I read the manufacturers directions first).

Some seams failed on the first one after three or so years; the second one was still going strong after eight years. I don't know if the bond breaker tape made the difference or not.
However it was the easiest part of a long job so I would use it again.

Don't forget the primer.

Good info. Siki recommended bond breaker tape and priming. TDS doesn't require priming and the use of taping seals doesn't seem quite as important with TDS - esp with glued on teak (vs screwed) as far I can tell thus my question. I'm guessing it can safely be considered a best practice, but YMMV in terms of if it's worth it depending on what product you go with and deck.

[sandrunner]

I'm also assuming it's best is seams are done all together vs patch/repair where needed, but thinking about tackling a seam or two at a time to make it manageable - thoughts?

[bletso]

I have had no issues on short seam caulk repairs. I use SIS 440. The hardest part of the job is getting the groove sides clean enough, hence the occasional 'repair' After a rain any bad adhesion is easy to spot.

The acetone step is important as is the tape in the bottom. The tape step can be very irritating on a windy day. The worst part is trying to keep your pawls out of the fresh caulk. I use blue masking tape on both sides of the seam and it really helps the after cure sanding. It must be removed before caulk starts to skin over!!

[Terra Nova]

Teak Decking Systems is a good choice. Remove 100% of the old caulk. Clean before re-caulking using industrial alcohol. No need to apply de-bonding tape on a thin, glued deck. Also no need to mask the edges. Knife the fresh caulk down flat. After curing, belt sand the excess off while fairing the deck.