Refinish original woodwork - on or off the boat?

[ValiantV]

Closing on a '92 Catalina 30 in a couple of weeks and building a (very long) "to do" list for the boat - which is in great shape but needs a lot of TLC.

Among other things, the wood around the companionway is quite weathered and needs major refinishing, possibly some replacement, and could likely stand being rebedded.

The $64,000 question is - do it in place, or take it all off and back to the shop?

Of course, "quick and dirty" is leave it in place, but I'd rather do a nice job.

I'm thinking pull it all off. Refinish it all. Clean the underlying fiberglass, and rebed and reinstall it all.

Is this the "best" way to go about it, or is there a different best way.

Don Casey wasn't much help here...

[JPA Cate]

Unless you KNOW it is leaking, what you risk is destroying the companionway coaming by trying to take it off. So, me, I'd be thinking in terms of giving it just enough sanding to get rid of the silver, wipe it with lacquer thinner, and then start building up the varnish layers. It will take a lot. Make sure the varnish you use has UV inhibitors in it. The secret to keeping it nice, is a light sand and one more coat, about every 6 months.

If the hatch boards need it, I'd be inclined to do them at home, where you can reseal as needed, then spray them.

Ann

[seahag]

Pictures?

[masonc]

I have the same issue on my 1972 Chevy Lee. I want to sand the companionway wood but how to keep dust out of the cabin? Also, how can I release the companionway sliding hatch?

[TooCoys]

I just purchased my 1981 Hunter 27', and I'm currently doing the same thing you are. All of the exterior wood work was grayed and weathered really badly - to the point that I thought it was going to be a full replacement situation.

Since everything was still mounted well and didn't seem to be loose, or cracking under significant pressure applied, I decided to sand it down in place on the exterior. I taped off the railings and sanded them down, and applied Teak oil afterwards. I applied two coats for now, but I need to go back with some fine grit paper and apply about three more coats.

For the interior wood work, which is stained a dark shade of 1970's depression, I chose to sand off the boat. I've taken all of the wood that I can off the boat and will begin sanding it soon. I tried sanding some of it in place, but the amount of dust created was obnoxious. The only thing I half heartedly regret about taking the interior wood off is that the wood plugs over the screws will be lighter than the teak in its natural state. But since I'm planning on leaving the teak natural, with just a wax coating, its not going to be that big of a deal for me.

[ValiantV]

Originally Posted by Ann T. Cate

Unless you KNOW it is leaking, what you risk is destroying the companionway coaming by trying to take it off. So, me, I'd be thinking in terms of giving it just enough sanding to get rid of the silver, wipe it with lacquer thinner, and then start building up the varnish layers. It will take a lot. Make sure the varnish you use has UV inhibitors in it. The secret to keeping it nice, is a light sand and one more coat, about every 6 months.

If the hatch boards need it, I'd be inclined to do them at home, where you can reseal as needed, then spray them.

Ann

Thanks Ann,

Breaking something is certainly a concern, and I don't think anything is leaking.

Besides the dust which others mention, my major concern is being able to sand the areas abutting the deck fiberglass, possibly scratching or staining that, being able to get a good finish and clean line where wood and fiberglass meet.

I don't think that any of the wood is worn, weathered, or chipped beyond repair, and removing/replacing the plugs will take some finesse. Just wondering how all things considered (dust, plugs, breakage, finish, etc) how others have gone about this. It is virtually 100% "cosmetic", but it's the most prominent woodwork on the outside of the boat and doing a craftsmanlike job will make an excellent or terrible impression of the boat overall.

Thanks all, please keep it coming!

[ValiantV]

Originally Posted by Ann T. Cate

Unless you KNOW it is leaking, what you risk is destroying the companionway coaming by trying to take it off. So, me, I'd be thinking in terms of giving it just enough sanding to get rid of the silver, wipe it with lacquer thinner, and then start building up the varnish layers. It will take a lot. Make sure the varnish you use has UV inhibitors in it. The secret to keeping it nice, is a light sand and one more coat, about every 6 months.

If the hatch boards need it, I'd be inclined to do them at home, where you can reseal as needed, then spray them.

Ann

Oh yeah, the hatch boards definitely need a strip and refinish. Too many careless coats of who knows what by previous owner(s) - but those are obviously so thing to do at home under more controllable conditions.

I was also gonna fabricate a wood-framed screen to slip in in place if the boards on warm nights.

[ValiantV]

Seems that scraping rather than sanding is one good idea I got from Casey's book. A lot less dust an likely will also address the "good line" and minimize possible damage to the surrounding deck fiberglass.

[JPA Cate]

About the dust below. I know we aren't "supposed to" wet sand wood. However, a Canadian friend of ours did just that for their below decks timber. It made clean up much easier. Then, air dry. (Go for a hike or something.) After it is dry, wipe down with turps, and finish how you want it to continue.

Masonc, try taping it off with a cheap painting "tarp", then when you're done, vacuum it up.

With the wood plugs, you may have a choice, if you like contrast, make them from light timber. Otherwise, if you'd like a match, they'll match better after the wood is sanded, but beware, the veneers are very thin, so don't sand much or you'll go through, and then you'll have to solve that problem. If you go for a match, try and line up the grain of the plug with that of the timber, and just dip them in varnish, you don't need glue.

Another option is to leave the screws uncovered. You never know when you might have to take that down to get at something in back of it. It is a different look, but very practical

Ann