Refinishing caprail in oil or cetol

[mickand]

Don't use oil for all the reasons stated and ruining clothes if you rub against or sit on.
The ultimate finish for me is Epifanes varnish (10 coats), sanding between each coat with 220. Varnish, for me, is the only product with superior UV protection.
Varnish is a natural product, so degrades in sunlight. I sand the top varnish coat with 400, carefully clean and on a very still day, apply one topcoat of Awlbrite 3 part polyurethane.
For some reason, Awlbrite seems to attract airborne particles more than varnish, but it does dry quickly.
This poly protects the varnish layer from degradation.
I finished boats in Florida professionally for 20 years and started using Awlbrite back in 2008.
To be complete, I open out any 'joints' around 1/8 to 1/4" and tape/caulk the joints (Teak Decking Systems black caulk) once the finish layer is complete.
I have boats in Florida that have been out in the harsh sun 24/7, 365 out of 365 and haven't needed any remedial work for up to 4 years.

[pitlaw]

My location is the Chesapeake. I stripped old brown Cetol off my cockpit teak and applied oil as per the oil crowd. Big mistake. After 3 months it looked terrible. Have since stripped it back and then applied the new formulation of Sickens Marine Natural Teak. It is now into the second season and looks very good. Follow the label application instructions.

[sail sfbay]

I stripped the Cetol from my teak rails and trim, sanded and applied Semco sealant. Very happy with the results and easy to reapply No more Cetol yellowing and flaking, sanding and multiple coats of Cetol.

[jordanbigel]

Originally Posted by mickand

The ultimate finish for me is Epifanes varnish (10 coats), sanding between each coat with 220. Varnish, for me, is the only product with superior UV protection.
Varnish is a natural product, so degrades in sunlight. I sand the top varnish coat with 400, carefully clean and on a very still day, apply one topcoat of Awlbrite 3 part polyurethane.
For some reason, Awlbrite seems to attract airborne particles more than varnish, but it does dry quickly.
This poly protects the varnish layer from degradation.
I finished boats in Florida professionally for 20 years and started using Awlbrite back in 2008.
To be complete, I open out any 'joints' around 1/8 to 1/4" and tape/caulk the joints (Teak Decking Systems black caulk) once the finish layer is complete.
I have boats in Florida that have been out in the harsh sun 24/7, 365 out of 365 and haven't needed any remedial work for up to 4 years.

I'm very interested in using this method on a sliding companionway hatch. It was coated with 15 coats of AwlBrite (in 2001), but now parts exposed to UV are cracking and peeling off.

Once I take it down to bare wood again, I was thinking of just using a lot of AwlBrite, as was done last time, but, now I am thinking it would be much easier to use Epifanes as you describe, then apply a "sealer" coat of AwlBrite, if I understand you correctly.

Can I assume your comment about "remedial work" implies that you suggest to re-apply another topcoat of AwlBrite every 4 years? I'm also wondering if 2 topcoats would be better than one? Thanks!

[nmuir]

+1 on Cetol.
Cetol turning the awful orange/brown is a thing of the past.
A few coats Cetol natural teak followed by Cetol gloss.
Touch-up are pretty good.
If you can remove stanchions then re-bed after finishing under them you eliminate the potential lifting around the edges. A bit of effort but a good pay-off.

Not as perfect as multiple coats of varnish but looks good and lets one get out boating versus spending time varnishing.
Good luck.

[brianc]

Last year I stripped the varnish off a couple things and used the Starbrite Teak Sealer. I like the color, and it seemed to wear reasonably well, meaning uniformly, but I don't think it stood up very well once the weather (Seattle) turned. There was a period of a week or so where snow sat on it and it had problems with that. It looked like the water soaked through it and started to discolor the wood underneath and get some black mold in spots.

I tried the Semco sealer and I thought the color was too yellow, but maybe I'll try it again to see how it wears.

Not sure what I'll do this year, but I've got enough other projects, I will probably wash with a teak cleaner and just re-apply the Starbrite stuff, it looked good all summer.

[Cheechako]

I guess Cetol is easier than Varnish, but less durable in my experience. Although I did not put on many coats.

Oil is useless, especially on a toerail. It lasts about one rainstorm.

In the end, I like salt water on Teak with regular dousing, especially in sunny climates. done often it will keep the teak that light tan/grey. If yours is part mahogany you need some coating I suppose.

I have seen many praises of Starbright, but no finish is great longevity.

[Ericson38]

SEMCO Natural all the way for our 110 feet of 4 - 5 inch wide cap rail. So easy to work with, we do it every year and a half, light sanding between coats (very light). Lots of compliments.

[cr180]

Here’s another vote for Semco! We have LOTS of teak trim, 4” toerail all the way around, cap rail, 4 handrails, all around cockpit coaming…… and the list goes on and on! I was so sick of varnishing! I’ve tested Semco for 3 years on the handrails, toerail and caprail and am definitely sold!! The hardest part was stripping off the 20+ coats of varnish before starting. Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love the look of varnish when it is freshly done, but I can not handle the little cracks and nicks that inevitably happen and allow water to get under and then in no time you’ve got flaking & peeling and then you’re into repairs. I’ve used many different varnishes as well as cetol (easier than varnish). I’m hoping to get the rest of the varnish off this year and go completely to Semco everywhere on the exterior.

Here are some of the best things about Semco, in my opinion.
1) no taping!
2) denatured alcohol cleanup
3) can be applied whether it’s windy or not - dust & dirt particles aren’t going to stick to it.
4) can and should apply coats back to back to back in the same day
5) more time to enjoy your boat!
Our boat is in Florida or the Bahamas year round and I put on 3 coats in the fall/winter and 2-3 more in may/june. I’m loving it!! I can have 3 coats on the entire toerail in a couple hours! Did I say how much I love it??!

Cindy

[Smokeys Kitchen]

We went from varnish to oil. It has worked for us. We stripped the varnish and put on Australian Timber Oil - available in several tones and in many hardware stores and not marine stores - several years ago. We have taken it to Alaska and are now in the Sea of Cortez.

It does fade out and requires more frequent work than varnish - but the work is minimal. We sanded to bare wood and then put 3 coats on. The re-coat process is scratching with a green scrubbie and then putting on another coat of ATO. We like the look better than Cetol and do not have the worry of varnish peeling and water getting underneath which does turn black on the wood.

We have had no issues with the oiled wood turning black.

As I said, works for us. YMMV

Ron

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

I have always used cetol, and it lasted me many years in the tropics with just an early touch up coat after abrading with green scotch brite. On bare wood I lay 4 coats of (Cetol) Marine Natural Teak and 3 coats of clear gloss.
I oiled once, never again as it tends to turn black over time and to remove it its a pita.
So, there you go, choose wisely.

Cetol natural, 3 + coats, touch up/recoat, as needed.
Really helps longevity, if you cover with spats. Towels.
The finishes suffer in heat and too much UV exposure.
Boatyarddog

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by cr180

Here’s another vote for Semco! We have LOTS of teak trim, 4” toerail all the way around, cap rail, 4 handrails, all around cockpit coaming…… and the list goes on and on! I was so sick of varnishing! I’ve tested Semco for 3 years on the handrails, toerail and caprail and am definitely sold!! The hardest part was stripping off the 20+ coats of varnish before starting. Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love the look of varnish when it is freshly done, but I can not handle the little cracks and nicks that inevitably happen and allow water to get under and then in no time you’ve got flaking & peeling and then you’re into repairs. I’ve used many different varnishes as well as cetol (easier than varnish). I’m hoping to get the rest of the varnish off this year and go completely to Semco everywhere on the exterior.

Here are some of the best things about Semco, in my opinion.
1) no taping!
2) denatured alcohol cleanup
3) can be applied whether it’s windy or not - dust & dirt particles aren’t going to stick to it.
4) can and should apply coats back to back to back in the same day
5) more time to enjoy your boat!
Our boat is in Florida or the Bahamas year round and I put on 3 coats in the fall/winter and 2-3 more in may/june. I’m loving it!! I can have 3 coats on the entire toerail in a couple hours! Did I say how much I love it??!

Cindy

How no taping, you must be really good with a brush!
Boatyarddog

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Which "Cetol" are users recommending?
FWIW: Sikkens ‘Cetol’ comes in a variety of formulations [for different applications]:
➥ https://www.sikkens-wood-coatings.com/products

Thanks for asking..
Cetol marine lite.
Less pigmented, satin finish 3 coats.
Teak cap rails, wave boards, trim.
Boatyarddog

[s/v Jedi]

The big missing thing in this thread are THE PICTURES!

Without pictures to back up your claim, you have nothing, just an opinion not worth a thing. Show pictures of your product X that holds up so well for so long. Explain what was used, how long ago and the climate it was exposed to.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

The big missing thing in this thread are THE PICTURES!

Without pictures to back up your claim, you have nothing, just an opinion not worth a thing. Show pictures of your product X that holds up so well for so long. Explain what was used, how long ago and the climate it was exposed to.

The Pictures aren't worth the time to try to post on this Very old system.

As I personally don't see this as trying to convince others that My choice should be there's.
I'm just adding that I've had good results with Cetol and teak.
Eventually we all have to refinish out refinishing jobs.

Comes with the territory.
Up to 3 weeks to apply subsequent coats without scuffing or sanding.
Stays a bit soft for a month.
Opinions are worth something, otherwise why ask? as you say "just do or do not"

Use covers/spats, when not using the boat for really long lasting results.
Boatyarddog