Refinishing caprail in oil or cetol

[andrzej0nl1ne]

I've stripped the old cetol from my caprails and I'm wavering between refinishing them with oil or back to cetol. My current preference is oil.

The caprails are a combination of teak and mahogany. Assuming I have no issues with the color esthetics nor with the frequency of oil replication, what's the general opinion as to which to choose?

Any recommendations as to best oil to use, how many layers, and frequency of replication?

Also, should I change my mind, what's the prep to remove the oil before applying cetol? Fyi, varnish is not an option.

Thanks as always for your inputs.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[SVTatia]

I have always used cetol, and it lasted me many years in the tropics with just an early touch up coat after abrading with green scotch brite. On bare wood I lay 4 coats of (Cetol) Marine Natural Teak and 3 coats of clear gloss.
I oiled once, never again as it tends to turn black over time and to remove it its a pita.
So, there you go, choose wisely.

[jordanbigel]

I'm unclear why you say to discount the frequency of application, other than that, the only difference appears to be how it looks, and that is a strictly personal decision. The only other consideration might be if you plan to walk on it - oiled wood will provide better footing when wet. I use Cetol outside and generally find it needs a re-coat every 12-18 months in the tropics. If you oil (in the tropics) you will probably need to re-oil it every 3 or 4 months! That seems like a huge difference.

>>Also, should I change my mind, what's the prep to remove the oil
>> before applying cetol

I am no expert on wood finishing, but, I think once you oil it, it will be difficult to get some paints to stick. I did have an experience doing this indoors with Varnish after oil and got good results (i.e. sanded down some oiled teak wood and re-coated with Varnish). Not sure if Cetol would be different, but I think there may be some issue with Cetol being a water based paint compared to varnish which actually has oil in it, so I think going from Oil -> Cetol may be harder than going from Oil -> Varnish.

PS. I grew up in Port Wash, got my start boating there. Great place!

[SVTatia]

The Cetol I buy is definetely not water based, it is oil based, so if the teak is still in good condition after you apply the oil, abrade and Cetol over it. I mentioned it is a pita to remove if it has already turned blackish.

[andrzej0nl1ne]

I also started to read about semco teak sealer, so any thoughts?

My hesitancy re cetol are several. With 4 coats, the buildup creates problems when moving t-rail attachments. Also, when water seeps into crevices it discolor the wood and raises the cetol coating.

My thoughts are that if I treat the caprails with teak sealer, my current preference based on reviews, I will get wood protection, color retention (I'm not a fan of the weathered gray, though I can live with it), and avoid the build-up thus easing movement of the slides on the T-rail.

Still looking for feedback.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[gonesail]

I would go with the sealer. if you like it then stick with it. semco is water based. I plan on trying it on some of my teak this summer. you can also varnish or cetol over the sealer.

[jordanbigel]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

The Cetol I buy is definetely not water based, it is oil based, so if the teak is still in good condition after you apply the oil, abrade and Cetol over it. I mentioned it is a pita to remove if it has already turned blackish.

Thank you for clarifying that. Not sure why I thought that it was water based, should have checked before I wrote. Should be no different than using varnish after cleaning up the oiled wood.

[jordanbigel]

Originally Posted by andrzej0nl1ne

My hesitancy re cetol are several. With 4 coats, the buildup creates problems when moving t-rail attachments. Also, when water seeps into crevices it discolor the wood and raises the cetol coating.

This is a very good point. I also have this problem with track slides on the caprail. We make extra effort each time we re-coat to sand down as much as possible the paint under the lip of the T track. We are not always successful.

[moseriw]

If it is teak DO NOT ruin it with any coating! Just use saltwater and a soft brush, if possible daily but weekly should be enough. Do NOT sand teak unless it is absolutely necessary (new chaulking).

Remeber: a teak deck i.e. will outrun 20.000 USD if you have to renew it.

[Fore and Aft]

White paint has always been my favourite varnish/oil. If you really like the timber look then your local sign writer could print of some timber looking vinyl wrap.
Cheers
https://www.conceptwraps.com.au/2020...-applications/

[OldManMirage]

I plan on trying Semco this time around for my exterior teak. I have varnished for years but I just don't want the labor this time. From what I have read "supposedly" Semco will wear off and I can simply re-apply as needed. Being water-based clean up is also supposed to be pretty easy.

We shall see !

[KadeyKrogen38]

Oil finishes are good for interior teak but not exterior. The oil promotes the growth of fungus and mold which turns teak splotchy and black. Then you have to clean, bleach, sand and then re oil. Ruining the teak thickness over time

The best thing for teak is to do as little as possible. I varnish cap rails, use Cetol on toe rails that have square corners and will not keep varnish in tack.

On my teak deck and bowsprit I leave natural and wash with salt water or bleach. These areas remain a nice silver. FYI, salt water kills mold and fungus, fresh water promotes both. I like all these finishes, they are appropriate when used properly and maintained. But I never oil exterior teak.

[GordMay]

Which "Cetol" are users recommending?
FWIW: Sikkens ‘Cetol’ comes in a variety of formulations [for different applications]:
➥ https://www.sikkens-wood-coatings.com/products

[Ardens2]

We made the change to Semco last September on our toe rail, bow sprit and companionway hatch and are very happy we did. We reapply to the Toe rail every few months to freshen it up and only with just a wash down to remove the salt. You can do a light sanding but we haven't. We apply to the 50' toe rail and it takes about 15 minutes. No taping or prep. We spent the season in the Caribbean and we coudn't keep up with the varnish (all wood) on the toe rail. With the Semco you can use a straight color or mix the colors. We are using the honey now and it looks great. We started with the natural color. We also did the sliding hatch in the companionway and have not reapplied in 7 months. Even though it was hard to remove the varnish from the toe rail, we would do it again and wished we changed over to Semco sooner.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Which "Cetol" are users recommending?
FWIW: Sikkens ‘Cetol’ comes in a variety of formulations [for different applications]:
➥ https://www.sikkens-wood-coatings.com/products

I'm using Sikkens Cetol HLSE 077 (pine timber finish) on Nyatoh timber caprail and it is the best product I've tried so far.


https://www.envirocoatingsaustralia....ens-cetol-hlse