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Cheechako · 05-06-2016, 10:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by RDW

So what are the pros and cons of light sanding and then applying new coats of what ever versus removing all old finish. I have sole which has Epiphanes and is not in bad shape, just a little aged. I am tempted to just sand and then reapply but I do not want to be lazy.
RDW

Yep, just do that.

BTW, there's lot of dirt embedded usually so clean it well. I would start with that, a rag and dish soap/water.

Terra Nova · 05-06-2016, 12:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Transpac 67

...you might try adding groundup walnut shells to the paint/varnish. The particles float in the mix...

This is not the way to do it. Instead, sprinkle the walnut shells onto the wet coat of varnish or paint; let dry, then vacuum off the excess. Then apply topcoat. It produces a fairly rough texture as compared to Griptex.

Jolly Roger · 14-10-2016, 18:14

It’s been quite a while since I started this thread and received all the interesting replies and different options.
First I’d like to thank everyone who contributed, and tell you that I eventually restored the floorboards and achieved a shinny non-slip surface.
I did this by simply not sanding the floors after each coat of varnish. After three coats of Epifanes clear gloss wood varnish the floors were very shiny, but rough to the touch, and most importantly for me, non slip even when wet.
It was a very big job on my 45 footer. The removable floorboards were not so bad because I did them in my garage on a bench. But the fixed floors were hard work, first to strip and sand, then a final cleaning before re-varnishing.
On the up side, I covered all my material costs by selling an article to Cruising World magazine. Unfortunately I can’t publish this on my website until it is printed in the magazine, but if anyone needs to do this you can PM me and I can send the article.
That’s one more big project crossed off the list.

Cheechako · 15-10-2016, 10:59

Curious why they came out rough from just not sanding between coats? Did you use satin? ... or "kill" the varnish with something? I see you stripped... so you had bare wood to start finishing? Maybe the grain raised up from that, and that is the roughness you speak of?

Jolly Roger · 15-10-2016, 15:49

Maybe the grain raised up from that, and that is the roughness you speak of?

That’s exactly what I did.
The first coat raised the grain and I simply laid another on top. I used Epifanes gloss, which is like treacle, compared to other makes. It remained coarse to the touch and very glossy.

Matt Johnson · 15-10-2016, 15:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger

Maybe the grain raised up from that, and that is the roughness you speak of?

That’s exactly what I did.
The first coat raised the grain and I simply laid another on top. I used Epifanes gloss, which is like treacle, compared to other makes. It remained coarse to the touch and very glossy.

Had you done this previously? We found Epifane to fail if not roughed-up/sanded between coats. Seems it needs the tooth to get the coats to bond correctly.

Matt

Jolly Roger · 16-10-2016, 08:19

I have used Epifanes before and noticed that the instructions say: Due to it’s unique formulation, this finish does not require sanding between coats, provided recoating occurs within 72 hours.
If you are using it in a conventional way, to achieve a high gloss smooth surface, you would rub down between multiple coats. But as I said in my original post: I was looking for something which would look good yet be non-slip, and by experiment I just laid on a second coat without sanding, and it’s exactly that. What it would be like with say four coats I don’t know, but this is inside the boat and I don’t need UV protection.

Matt Johnson · 16-10-2016, 10:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger

I have used Epifanes before and noticed that the instructions say: Due to it’s unique formulation, this finish does not require sanding between coats, provided recoating occurs within 72 hours.
If you are using it in a conventional way, to achieve a high gloss smooth surface, you would rub down between multiple coats. But as I said in my original post: I was looking for something which would look good yet be non-slip, and by experiment I just laid on a second coat without sanding, and it’s exactly that. What it would be like with say four coats I don’t know, but this is inside the boat and I don’t need UV protection.

The 72 hours is for the Epifanes Wood Finish Clear Gloss.... it's their non-sand fomula. The most commonly used Epifanes Clear Gloss does require sanding between coats. Two different products, but if it worked for you without sanding, that's all that matters.

Matt

apetersonjr · 31-10-2020, 20:29

Question: In regard to a Jeanneau 53 teak and holly cabin sole (which seems to be a very standard, light teak and holly veneer over plywood...). Is any stain used? Or, can I just carefully sand (120 to start?) to the bare teak and holly, and then start the varnish coats? Can anyone confirm what type/finish of varnish Jeanneau originally used? Thanks.

osprey877 · 31-10-2020, 21:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by apetersonjr

Question: In regard to a Jeanneau 53 teak and holly cabin sole (which seems to be a very standard, light teak and holly veneer over plywood...). Is any stain used? Or, can I just carefully sand (120 to start?) to the bare teak and holly, and then start the varnish coats? Can anyone confirm what type/finish of varnish Jeanneau originally used? Thanks.

Use a heat gun and paint scraper to remove the old finish. Much quicker and no sanding dust, no mess, no risk of sanding through the veneer.

osprey877 · 31-10-2020, 22:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by osprey877

Use a heat gun and paint scraper to remove the old finish. Much quicker and no sanding dust, no mess, no risk of sanding through the veneer.

Actually I meant a putty knife, not a paint scraper. I used a 3" inch wide one.
Hold the knife in one hand and the heat gun in the other and slowly move in the direction of the grain. Wait till the finish starts to bubble, then follow with the putty knife. A light sanding is all that's needed after that. If you've got any dark water stains or other irregularities, bleach the wood with oxalic acid, then use a wipe on stain before applying whatever top coat you've chosen. I used gloss varathane and was very pleased with the results. Good luck.

apetersonjr · 01-11-2020, 01:04

Thanks for the feedback. What kind of stain, and what color did you use? Do you have pictures you can share? Thanks!

Cheechako · 01-11-2020, 08:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by apetersonjr

Question: In regard to a Jeanneau 53 teak and holly cabin sole (which seems to be a very standard, light teak and holly veneer over plywood...). Is any stain used? Or, can I just carefully sand (120 to start?) to the bare teak and holly, and then start the varnish coats? Can anyone confirm what type/finish of varnish Jeanneau originally used? Thanks.

The risk you run by sanding it is that you break through the top veneer, it will never look right in those spots after. The veneer is often very thin. DO you really need to remove it?
I dont believe stain is used.
Pick a good hard drying product and don't use a "spar" varnish.
Personally I like Varathane better than most.

gonesail · 01-11-2020, 08:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by wsmurdoch

But, the original poster said, "The floorboards are the normal Teak with Holly strips of veneer on plywood." I doubt that he has even 1/32" of teak and holly veneer to remove before he sees the interior of the plywood.

yep. if you need to actually sand the veneer you may as well replace the plywood and start over. one man's opinion.