Regroove Teak Deck

[goeasy123]

The teak deck on my 2003 Najad 400 looks great. It's 8mm to 10mm thick, but the caulking groove is max 3mm deep and in places 0mm deep.


Any suggestions on the best way/tools to deepen the groove a little?

[tkeithlu]

I have not done it, and am glad that I never will, but if I was faced with it I would try sanding with the edge of a folded sheet of sandpaper. If the groove was wide enough, I'd fold the sandpaper around the edge of any flat object, such as thin plywood. I'd experiment with different grits to get the right finish in the groove, or possibly lower it with coarse paper and finish with finer. Have you got a place you can start that isn't too obvious?

Any powered solution to the problem that I can think of, such as using the edge of a grinding disk, would put the teak itself at risk if you had a senior moment. Try that at your peril...

[s/v Jedi]

A router with up-spiral bit is the best tool but you need a guide. You can make a guide from a 1/4” thick length of plywood with a slot in the center that fits the router (use a palm router to keep things small). Mark the guide for centerline at both ends, then position over the groove. The best way to keep it in place is double sided tape. I use tape for carpets which isn’t too hard to remove.

Alternatively, you can use a track saw. The tracks will probably stay put because of their anti-slip rubber pads. The disadvantage is that the saw blade is thinner than the groove is wide so you need multiple passes.

[goeasy123]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

A router with up-spiral bit is the best tool but you need a guide. You can make a guide from a 1/4” thick length of plywood with a slot in the center that fits the router (use a palm router to keep things small). Mark the guide for centerline at both ends, then position over the groove. The best way to keep it in place is double sided tape. I use tape for carpets which isn’t too hard to remove.

Alternatively, you can use a track saw. The tracks will probably stay put because of their anti-slip rubber pads. The disadvantage is that the saw blade is thinner than the groove is wide so you need multiple passes.

These won't work. All the grooves are curved.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by goeasy123

These won't work. All the grooves are curved.

Okay, that leaves the router and more work but can certainly be done.

You need long battens, a distance gauge (little block of wood cut at precise length) and a 22-gauge pin nailer. Just nail the batten in shape to be used as a guide. The pin nails are okay but you need the correct length and also remove them from the batten every time.

[goeasy123]

Vintage Hand Tool beats Modern Fancy Power Tools!!


OP here. Eventual solution: A used £18 vintage Record plough plan of ebay. Perfect results, quick and easy to use.

[Cheechako]

I'd just use a sharp wood chisel ground to almost the width of the groove, if it's not a ton of length. You only need a bit of depth for caulk to be aesthetic.

A router Jedi mentions would be great, but it's going to take a ton of time getting a batten guide on there and getting it right etc. Routers do curves fine, it's the guide that is key. I like the fbrad nailer approach though. Just use a small laminate router. $25 at your pawn shop.

[bletso]

I used a small router. The key is to lay on the deck and pull the router towards you. Fewer senior hiccups that way.https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-5-...iABEgKLt_D_BwE

[Tillsbury]

Do a bit manually first to check your build. Some boats (I'm looking at you, beneteau/wauquiez) have the teak screwed down with small screws every foot or so under the caulking. This is not good news for routing a slot.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by bletso

I used a small router. The key is to lay on the deck and pull the router towards you. Fewer senior hiccups that way.https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-5-...iABEgKLt_D_BwE

You free-handed it? That’s brave!

I believe the OP also free handed it with a manual plunge plane. I think that’s like a rebate plane?