Removing 1 part paint in prep for 2 part.

[L124C]

I want to strip the one part paint on my deck and replace it with two part. I'm tired of painting it, having it look good for a couple of years, fair for a couple of years, then having to redo it. On the other hand, it's an old boat and I can't justify taking it to a yard to have it done properly.
I can sand the smooth parts, but need a stripper to remove the paint on the molded non-skid surface. I'd like to retain the non-skid surface, and since I'm doing it in the water, removing the non-skid is out of the question anyway.
I've tried Aqua strip and citristrip, and thought I didn't have very good results. It suddenly occurred to me; "How will I know when I get down to gelcoat?" Maybe I'm there! I still.see crazing in the stripped section, but then, that's why the original owner would have painted it in the first place, right?
One photo shows a section that I stripped with a unstripped section below it. The red dots indicate the line between the two sections. The second photo shows a close-up of the stripped section.
Any comments or suggestions would be most welcome, as I'm very close to giving up, and slapping on some one-part again. I really don't want to do that!

[psk125]

Understand your dilemma. Getting the 1-part out of the nonskid pattern is essentially impossible. We sanded off the nonskid when we painted our deck and added grit to the 2-part paint.

[OloteleMtn]

This might be a long shot, but there are sanding discs for angle grinders that are used mainly for furniture stripping that have grit bonded to flexible bristles that might get into the recesses of your traction pattern. Or a rotary wire brush may work also.

[mikedefieslife]

You may not even need to remove the 1 part. If it is well aheard, and the 2 part doesn't cause it lift, then you can just rough it up and paint over. You would need to do a test first, and if it works, the two part will be hard and durable, but will only be stuck on as good as the 1 part is.

If you are dead set on removing it, then just use a wire, or maybe better a nylon brush on an variable speed angle grinder, or if you are a gluten for punishment like I often seem to be, a drill.

[Tusitala]

I can't really think of an option that leaves your non skid intact. Simplest way to go would be to prime everything with a coat or two of one of the barrier coat paints ( International Interprotect or Pettit Protect ) wait the appropriate amount of time listed on the can for overcoating with bottom paint and paint it using the 2 part poly of your choice.

[flyingfin]

Ruff up with wire brush, followed by scour pad, not too much to deform non-skid, but not too little either! Then scrub with 20 Mule Team in warm water solution, followed by clean water washdown. Wipe down with Acetone or MEK minutes before applying the two part epoxy paint. Keep out of sun while applying paint

[SteveSadler]

I agree with not removing the old paint, no need. If it does lift in a test section, then prime it first and all will be well. But I'm surprised noone mentioned a heat gun for removing the paint, it works really well.

[L124C]

Originally Posted by Tusitala

I can't really think of an option that leaves your non skid intact. Simplest way to go would be to prime everything with a coat or two of one of the barrier coat paints ( International Interprotect or Pettit Protect ) wait the appropriate amount of time listed on the can for overcoating with bottom paint and paint it using the 2 part poly of your choice.

Interesting, and I like that answer...Only, someone suggested that Interlux makes a primer for this purpose. I contacted Interlux and they responded, saying that they made no such product and stating emphatically that you cannot use a two-part paint over a one part paint. All one part part must be removed.
My concern is that if I was to go this route with a primer and it failed, then I'm REALLYscrewed!�� Well, you've given me some names to investigate, in any case. Thanks for your help!

[L124C]

Originally Posted by SteveSadler

I agree with not removing the old paint, no need. If it does lift in a test section, then prime it first and all will be well. But I'm surprised noone mentioned a heat gun for removing the paint, it works really well.

We'll... I have a heat gun, and I'm not afraid to use it! In any case, it might answer the question of how do I know if I'm down to gelcoat or not. Good to know you endorse the priming method. Thanks for your response!

[L124C]

Brought out the heat gun, and didn't get the Lift-Off I was looking for,
without getting to temperatures that I thought might affect the fiberglass.

[Panacea2183]

Originally Posted by L124C

I want to strip the one part paint on my deck and replace it with two part. I'm tired of painting it, having it look good for a couple of years, fair for a couple of years, then having to redo it. On the other hand, it's an old boat and I can't justify taking it to a yard to have it done properly.
I can sand the smooth parts, but need a stripper to remove the paint on the molded non-skid surface. I'd like to retain the non-skid surface, and since I'm doing it in the water, removing the non-skid is out of the question anyway.
I've tried Aqua strip and citristrip, and thought I didn't have very good results. It suddenly occurred to me; "How will I know when I get down to gelcoat?" Maybe I'm there! I still.see crazing in the stripped section, but then, that's why the original owner would have painted it in the first place, right?
One photo shows a section that I stripped with a unstripped section below it. The red dots indicate the line between the two sections. The second photo shows a close-up of the stripped section.
Any comments or suggestions would be most welcome, as I'm very close to giving up, and slapping on some one-part again. I really don't want to do that!

Repainted me aft deck years ago with Awlgrip.
It had several layers of 1 part on it already.
Instructions said ALL old surface needs to be removed.
Called tech support and they confirmed, I then asked why cant I coat with West System epoxy first as this will not lift old paint?
The response was Oh yea you could do that.
Did and worked flawlessly saving hours of striping old paint!

[Rod B]

Many paint stripers are not safe to use on fiberglass but Sherwin Williams sells one that is. Can't remember the name but it works well on 1 part, $60 a gallon!

[LooseGoose]

Here is a way to tell if there is any paint remaining.....

apply your fiberglass-safe paint stripper to a 12 inch square section. Cover the section with plastic wrap.

This stops the softening chemical from evaporating, so it can work on the paint for much, much longer.....i have left it overnight on wood, but you should test after an hour.

Use a small handheld wire brush to break up any paint into the stripper slurry, wipe the slurry up with a blue paper towel and examine the slurry. if there are few if any paint specs, you will see them and thereby know if you've stripped down to the gelcoat successfully.

Two part paints have very very aggressive solvents, which will melt right through one part paint. Once you open a can of it and sniff it, you'll know immediately that they are definitely not the same chemistry.

Good luck with your project. BTW I'm facing the same dilemma, curious on how yours goes.

[L124C]

Originally Posted by Panacea2183

Repainted me aft deck years ago with Awlgrip.
It had several layers of 1 part on it already.
Instructions said ALL old surface needs to be removed.
Called tech support and they confirmed, I then asked why cant I coat with West System epoxy first as this will not lift old paint?
The response was Oh yea you could do that.
Did and worked flawlessly saving hours of striping old paint!

Thanks for your reply. You brushed or rolled epoxy over the existing one part paint? Isn't epoxy awfully thick compared to paint, even in its unthickened form?
Obviously, I don't want to fill in the non skid pattern on my deck anymore than I have to. Do you have any pictures of the results?

[Peter1949]

How about kiwi grip
As long as the one part is clean and stable.
Call kiwi grip tech support
Good luck and post results on what you ended up doing for future info

Pete