Repainting boom. Best practice on installing hardware

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by phantomracer

will take a look at duralc.



Silicone should be illegal to have on boats!

Theres more than one type of silicone, did you know?
The Neutral Cure has many uses onboard, one of them is on mechanical rigging fittings to prevent water ingress, as Suncor suggests.
Neutral Cure is not acidic and does not have the same vinagry smell, but I would not use it for caulking. Just correcting the broad statement.

[Jim Cate]

A comment upon Tef Gel:

This is undeniably good stuff... but seriously expensive IMO. Any product that keeps water out of the threads and from under washers etc will do the same anti-corrosive jobs. We've successfully used anhydrous lanolin, Permatex anti-seize, Duralac, a nickel based anti-seize (good for high temperature joints) and just plain grease... and they all worked for reasonable periods of exposure. And they all were far less expensive per dose than Tef Gel. This encourages use of a sufficient quantity to ensure good coverage, something I've found myself being a bit parsimonious about when using Tef Gel.

Jim

[Sos]

Another vote for Duralac

Brought a tube donkey's years ago and still going!

[Benz]

I prefer Tef-Gel over Duralac (unless the application is Duralac-specific), because Duralac has chemicals that are worse for you. Not a huge deal for occasional use, but long-term, Duralac is more harmful. All that crumbly dust when you take the fasteners back out still has the funk in it.
I bought a very expensive small tub of Tef-gel years ago, and have still not exhausted it, despite buttering all my fasteners up with it. Buying it in the small tubes is highway robbery, though.
When I can, I use LanoCote--it's the best for coating screws going into wood, and the most natural (it has lanolin, whatever else it may contain)

[Searles]

If you paint your boom ,you will paint it again ,best option now that it’s stripped is to polish the alu,fine sand with kerosene and 600 wet and dry ,wax and polish a good job will last years ,easy to see corrosion and easy to touch up same goes for masts ,if possible anodise .⛵️⚓️👍

[Franziska]

Originally Posted by Benz

I'm surprised at this because as of a couple years ago, Awlgrip was no longer recommending an acid etch for aluminum: just 545 right over sanded alloy. I wonder if they've changed back.

Love to hear how the new product works. While I abominate painted aluminum, sometimes its unavoidable.

As far as I know Zinc Chromate Primers (the yellow greenish stuff) has by enlarge been outlawed for general applications due to its toxicity.
Might be a new formulation...

[psk125]

Originally Posted by Franziska

As far as I know Zinc Chromate Primers (the yellow greenish stuff) has by enlarge been outlawed for general applications due to its toxicity.
Might be a new formulation...

Maybe in Europe. Still seems available here:https://www.amazon.com/zinc-chromate...hromate+primer

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by Searles

If you paint your boom ,you will paint it again ,best option now that it’s stripped is to polish the alu,fine sand with kerosene and 600 wet and dry ,wax and polish a good job will last years ,easy to see corrosion and easy to touch up same goes for masts ,if possible anodise .⛵️⚓️👍

Yup that is the downside to painting. Since i have the skills, I don't mind doing it every decade or 2. The original paint job lasted 15 years to get to this point. Hence this post, I want to do whatever is the best practice to extend the life of this job.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Franziska

As far as I know Zinc Chromate Primers (the yellow greenish stuff) has by enlarge been outlawed for general applications due to its toxicity.
Might be a new formulation...

I heard that this is the stuff they prime all aircraft alum. parts with, not anymore?

[Bowdrie]

It's best not to conflate "Bedding" a part, as opposed to simply using a product to lessen any corrosion between the base metal and a stainless fastener.
Putting some Tef-Gel on the fasteners that hold the motor cover on a Lofrans windlass is a good use of the product, likewise the small machine screws for a sail track.
In the instances like the OPs first picture, or a halyard exit box, that's a "bedding" job, and is well served by the "Alumilastic" that I first referenced.
Alternately, (and highly worthwhile,) is making "gaskets" for the parts out of 1/16th, Neoprene sheeting, and covering both surfaces, (and fasteners,) with a liberal coating of the "silver-colored-stuff" Anti-seize sold at the auto stores.
Caveat: gloves/old clothes, and lots of rags are required, much like 5200 that stuff will get all over you and everything around you just by looking at it.

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

It's best not to conflate "Bedding" a part, as opposed to simply using a product to lessen any corrosion between the base metal and a stainless fastener.
Putting some Tef-Gel on the fasteners that hold the motor cover on a Lofrans windlass is a good use of the product, likewise the small machine screws for a sail track.
In the instances like the OPs first picture, or a halyard exit box, that's a "bedding" job, and is well served by the "Alumilastic" that I first referenced.
Alternately, (and highly worthwhile,) is making "gaskets" for the parts out of 1/16th, Neoprene sheeting, and covering both surfaces, (and fasteners,) with a liberal coating of the "silver-colored-stuff" Anti-seize sold at the auto stores.
Caveat: gloves/old clothes, and lots of rags are required, much like 5200 that stuff will get all over you and everything around you just by looking at it.

Is this the
aluminastic ?

I was going to use butyl (bed it) for the exit box.. maybe thats not the best choice?

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by phantomracer

Is this the
aluminastic ?

I was going to use butyl (bed it) for the exit box.. maybe thats not the best choice?

Whilst the Butyl can make a "bedding" for the parts, it is not an anti-seize for the fasteners, therefore the use of butyl becomes a "2 part" job, putting butyl against the mating surfaces, and then using some ant-seize product on the fasteners.
A Neoprene gasket can be re-used should the fitting(s) be removed in the future, only requiring another application of anti-seize.
The Alumilast?
This is what I referenced on an early post:
https://burnstines.com/products/alum...y-tube-25-case

[s/v Jedi]

If you use anti-seize, note that there is a metal free marine grade available: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-29917...s%2C95&sr=8-28

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

If you use anti-seize, note that there is a metal free marine grade available: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-29917...s%2C95&sr=8-28

Thanks!

[phantomracer]

Priming is coming out nicely! Very happy.. Unfortunately ran into a BIG snag!

Got sold some fake Epifanes solvent resistant rollers from JD. So pissed! They are falling apart like a cheap suit! I should have bought them from Epifanes... lesson learned

Posted what I found here https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3560527


Other than that, got half the boom primed! Hopefully next week I can get some paint on, and hope the authentic rollers get delivered in time.