Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30

[P3sailor]

Alaska's statement is correct, do not use aircraft stripper! This stuff is nasty and should not be used in an enclosed area or on fiberglass, for that matter. Along with the noxious odor it can and will cause severe burns if it contacts the skin. Just avoid it, period.

[SeanMaine]

How do I determine if fairing the fiberglass is necessary?

[SeanMaine]

Also, if I recognize that I'm sanding away fiberglass or resin, doesn't that require a repair at that point? How do I determine if fairing or a fiberglass repair is necessary?

[ZULU40]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

If you are saying that epoxy will not stick to polyester you are totally incorrect. Epoxy is the best repair resin for any fiberglass job. As well barrier coats to polyester hulls are epoxy based. Epoxy sticks very well to older polyester - better than polyester over old polyester.

omg sorry about that,
of course its the other way around
to restate, polyester will not stick well to epoxy, use epoxy for repairs to polyester

thanks for picking this up

[ZULU40]

Originally Posted by SeanMaine

How do I determine if fairing the fiberglass is necessary?

Id limit that to fairing where repairs have been deemed necessary

If we are still considering the interior thats pretty simple, just a matter of having enough fill to eliminate shallow areas, possibly using a resin and filler mix. When thats hard use a longer sanding board to more or less even the surfaces out

Originally your boat would have core material, glassed each side with either CSM or matt, then covered with gelcoat. So long as the core is protected and glass removal isnt severe, this could be considered more or less cosmetic.

[ZULU40]

Originally Posted by SeanMaine

Also, if I recognize that I'm sanding away fiberglass or resin, doesn't that require a repair at that point? How do I determine if fairing or a fiberglass repair is necessary?

it goes back to purpose, a repair may necessitate having a strong bite to materials but I dont see that as being common to your interior.

If you are about cleaning up surfaces and paint prep you ought not be biting into the glass unduly, that should be about scoring the surface to adhere paint. Remember you have the gelcoat surface on top too as a buffer, even though thats quite thin

[SeanMaine]

Thanks to all who provided input. I just wanted to provide an update - the boat is in Boston so I'm only able to work on it on weekends. I also discovered a few leaks, so the re-painting process has been put on hold until she's water tight.

I've put together a Google Drive album with pictures to make planning projects easier from away. Long distance relationships are always tough. If anyone is curious, feel free to check it out: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...Ci?usp=sharing

[WYDAHH]

Hello,

My gf and I purchased our 1968 CAL 2-30 (Hull #100) in 2016. We're getting her ready to go back in the water for our third season. She'll be 50 years new this year so we're hoping to do a lot of what she does best, SAIL! We're still new at this but having a blast just day trips sailing off the coast of MA, NH, and might do a long weekend trip to Casco Bay this summer.
If I've learned anything so far it's don't try to fix everything at once. Make her safe first then enjoy her while you tackle the other jobs.
Enjoy!

[Wainui]

I have repainted the interior of my Cal 48 using brightside rolling and tipping off with a foam brush. It looked great for 12 years but is starting to peel in a couple of places. I’m going to sand it down an roll and tip with Awlgrip. The brightsides still is shiny and is easy to clean. Go with thin coats and sand inbetween.
Good luck

[Chuck Hawley]

One more Cal 2-30 story...

I lived about "Genie" when I got out of college, and one of her peculiar issues was the area of the sole adjacent to the head and hanging locker. Since the boat had what I believe was a large galvanized I-beam under the mast step, which was completely enclosed in the fiberglass pan that made up the sole, this area by the head wasn't contiguous with the rest of the cabin and bilge. It had a tiny limber hole drilled in the bottom of the place where the I-beam support was, and it was constantly clogging which left a puddle of water on the floor.

I can fix this, I thought. I took a larger diameter drill (perhaps 3/8" and held the drill so that is was parallel to the hull and tried to enlarge the limber hole. Apparently I went in at the wrong angle, and soon water was bubbling up from the hole I had just drilled. Initially, I thought I was releasing some water that hadn't made it to the bilge, but I realized that I had simply drilled a hole in the bottom of a boat, while it floated in it's slip.

I ran up to the local chandlery as quickly as a I could, bought a few ounces of Z-Spar Splashzone, and ran back to the boat. I quickly mixed the putty, dove over the side, and made a patch out of a chunk of putty that was about as big as my thumb.

It took me several years to have the self-confidence to be able to admit that I had drilled a hole in the bottom of a boat that was floating, at least for a while, in the water.

Cheers,

Chuck Hawley
(Former) Owner of Cal 2-30 #90, Genie