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Warby12 · 27-01-2014, 16:46

We've just spent the weekend going over our new boat and we're extremely happy! No scary discoveries, the interior is actually in amazingly good shape for a nearly forty year old boat

One thing which I can see is going to bug me is that the plywood cabin sole is quite bouncy/springy/soft in many places and in the many laps up and done the boat the noise and bounce accumulates!

Does anyone know a good fix for this. I want them to be firm. I was thinking of cutting criss cross notches in the underside and pouring in thickened epoxy. I guess the other way is to glue another sheet of ply underneath but that seems like the same work plus more money and less bilge

Richard5 · 27-01-2014, 16:59

Not enough information. What is thickness of sole? What is spacing of stringers/ribs? What is condition of supporting framework? How is sole fastened?

AFA cutting relief for pouring in epoxy, I'd rather add wood stiffeners across the sole width. Maybe every 12-24" add a stiffener. And if it hangs into the bilge below the sole, so what?

Warby12 · 27-01-2014, 17:06

Fair comment Richard! The ply is approx 15 mm thick and 30-40cm spacing over the floors. The panels that aren't loose access ones are screwed, down so easily removable.

**neilpride** · 27-01-2014, 17:20

The problem is if you choose to replace the sole is going to be a nightmare if the sole is under furniture, is kind of destroy and dismantle the interior, gluing under the ribs is bad to, injecting epoxy is useles, the sole is delaminated and my 2 cents rotted in some isolated locations, could be the best way to glue screw a new sole in the top of the old one , take a knife and hit the soft spot if the blade go all the way is rotted.. Sintetic teak cabin sole panels are way cheaper than real wood......

Richard5 · 27-01-2014, 17:21

15 millimeters is too thin if you ask me. There is your problem. Spacing seems very adequate. At the very least double the sole thickness. So what that you lose 15 mm of bilge? Of course, to make it easier for you, you could add thickness to the top of the existing sole. Less fitting that way. But good luck achieving good bond between ply sheets across entire sole. Glue and screw with screws only in place for clamping (or, cramping, as UK says it) Screws come out after glue is cured.

Warby12 · 27-01-2014, 17:51

Thanks all

I may be wrong about the thickness that is just from memory. I'm back on board tomorrow and will measure. I'd rather not go over the top as the veneer is still good. Maybe I could just glue/screw/clamp a piece of ply underneath which fills the space between the floors, keeping the old ply as the lip?

If I added a full layer everywhere it would raise the floor up and none of the edges against the curve of the hull would be flush.

Brown is existing ply, red is new ply glued screwed underneath?

Richard5 · 27-01-2014, 17:57

Lay a fat piece of metal angle fore and aft (along longitudinal axis) right down the center. You'll likely have to relieve the ribs to fit the piece. Not being on site I would be hesitant to advise if this is proper method.