Replacing Ceiling Material in Cabin

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Kd9truck

...
I have a white leatherette stapled to 1/8 in luan, I painted both sides because raw wood is very poor porous and can collect smells also...

Also available with an ABS laminate on 48" x 96" x 1/8" luan plywood, with total thickness 0.16", & Weight: 16.42Lbs [7.4kg]; compared to 1/8" luan only, or 1/8" HDF, both at 17.0 Lbs/sheet.

[Foswick]

Originally Posted by rognvald

... a major project with great chances of failure ...

Those words are at the top of the page of virtually every plan I've ever had.

[rognvald]

Originally Posted by Foswick

Those words are at the top of the page of virtually every plan I've ever had.

Hi, Foswick,
Only because you might create more of a project for yourself than might be needed. Think twice . . . cut once! I opt for paint if the surface is intact.
Rognvald

[Seabeau]

Originally Posted by Foswick

The boat we are buying has some weird laminate in the ceiling between the deck beams, providing a sort of popcorn ceiling. I believe the purpose of these sheets is to dampen cabin sound and give the cabin a softer appearance.

But, after nearly 50 years, these panels are getting a little beat up and I don't care for the popcorn look, in the first place. So, I intend to remove them. Underneath, though, is just unfinished fiberglass ... I believe ... I haven't removed any, yet.

On others' boats who have this style of ceiling (segmented by deck beams), what material is used between the deck beams? Is it just painted fiberglass? Are there panel made of something else?

I think that I will want to replace these panels with some other panels, rather than sanding and painting the fiberglass. Just curious what others have.

I know that, traditionally, there tends to be tongue-and-groove, and I think the deck beams actually just support those panels directly. So, it feels a little disingenous to put tongue-and-groove panels between the beams just to make it look like a traditional wooden cabin, when it isn't really. I have read about fabric-covered panels. Not sure how I feel about that.

I do prefer white to give the cabin a lighter feel.

A PO lined my ceilings(hull sides) in natural cork. And did a great job.

[JBP]

A PO of my boat replaced the headliner and some of the side foam/vinyl with thin varnished plywood. For the salon headliner, they screwed though the lower skin of the glass for maximum headroom. I'm not keen on this idea, but it has not caused any problems in 20+ years, so maybe it's OK. Everywhere else they epoxied wooden cleats to the hull and screwed into the cleats which is the safer way.

Having removable panels definitely makes changes to the wiring easier. I took this picture to show my wife an additional light I'd just installed by taking the panel down.

[Capt.Go]

Komacel or Komatex worked great on a Tayana 55

[JohnHolland]

Many years ago while overwintering in Auckland in our unlined old Alberg 30 I bought some sheets of 1/4" close cell foam and glued commercial grade wall covering (likely vinyl) to them with contact cement as for an insulated liner. outside on a nice day.

I then cut panels to fit inside, fastening the panels with spray contact cement. I had to do some last minute trimming for the final fit before glueing but it was easy with a sharp construction blade. It worked well to reduce the condensation and keep the heat in.

Make sure to have lots of fans for good ventilation or wear a mask to protect yourself from the toxic solvents acetone, toluene, and hexane, sometimes xtlenehttps://cos-bond.com/2019/05/01/introduction-to-contact-cement-adhesive-series/#:~:text=Actually%2C%20contact%20cement%20is%20a,i s%20known%20for%20its%20toxicity.