Replacing Ceiling Material in Cabin

[Foswick]

The boat we are buying has some weird laminate in the ceiling between the deck beams, providing a sort of popcorn ceiling. I believe the purpose of these sheets is to dampen cabin sound and give the cabin a softer appearance.

But, after nearly 50 years, these panels are getting a little beat up and I don't care for the popcorn look, in the first place. So, I intend to remove them. Underneath, though, is just unfinished fiberglass ... I believe ... I haven't removed any, yet.

On others' boats who have this style of ceiling (segmented by deck beams), what material is used between the deck beams? Is it just painted fiberglass? Are there panel made of something else?

I think that I will want to replace these panels with some other panels, rather than sanding and painting the fiberglass. Just curious what others have.

I know that, traditionally, there tends to be tongue-and-groove, and I think the deck beams actually just support those panels directly. So, it feels a little disingenous to put tongue-and-groove panels between the beams just to make it look like a traditional wooden cabin, when it isn't really. I have read about fabric-covered panels. Not sure how I feel about that.

I do prefer white to give the cabin a lighter feel.

[coopec43]

I used "carpet" which is what it is made for - glued to the fiberglass with spray on contact cement

https://www.carpetcapers.com.au/product/marine-liner/

[Foswick]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I used "carpet" ...

You're happy with it? I see this a lot on newer boats and it seems to stand up surprisingly well to marine abuses.

[Iron E]

Is that a Fuji?

The overhead you have is indeed designed to dampen sounds, insulate, and prevent moisture from accumulating...etc.
Personally, I would keep it by applying a nice satin paint.

[Foswick]

Yes, a Fuji 32.

I would keep it, but it is so old it is actually flaking apart in a few places. I don't think it can be saved. It is OK-ish, as it is. But, I will have to remove and replace at least one - which means I get to remove and replace them all.

[Iron E]

Originally Posted by Foswick

Yes, a Fuji 32.

I would keep it, but it is so old it is actually flaking apart in a few places. I don't think it can be saved. It is OK-ish, as it is. But, I will have to remove and replace at least one - which means I get to remove and replace them all.

You have a better perspective on what can and can't be done, but, you may be surprised at what a good coat of paint can cure. The wood on the back of my shed was disintegrating from the sun. Flaking, peeling, rotting in places. A quick brush down and 1 heavy coat of Dunn Edwards and it looks like new... that was 8 years ago.
Just a thought.

[Cheechako]

It may be more work than you think. Can you spot repair it and repaint? It's difficult to say how it was done. But putting wood strips is always very nice and you have a great look there already with the faux cross beams. So nothing 'non genuine" about putting in strips... thin painted or formica'd plywood is an option also if you want to just do panels.
Please dont put carpet in!
The off white does look nice. I put White Cedar in one, but it got pretty dark with varnish though because I used UV varnish:

[Katapult Mike]

You can get PVC bead board panels at Home Depot that are impervious to moisture and much easier to install than real tongue and groove, while preserving a traditional look. Multiple variations available, here is an example:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ekena-Mi...SWPV/309959739

I saw a boat that had this and I think it is a great balance betwen looking right and the amount of work it takes. If / when I have to replace my aging vinyl headliner, this is the way I will go. I think I will paint the bright white panels in an off white first.

Headliner 2.jpg Views: 107 Size: 152.1 KB ID: 289526" style="margin: 2px" />

There is a good write up on this and other althernatives in a newsletter from the i36 Association, p 34: https://islander36.org/pdf/i36spring2023.pdf

[Foswick]

Thanks. This is definitely beyond paint. It would be like trying to put paint over hair and cornflakes. (Not literally, but about the same level of futility.)

I am a bit encouraged to do some tongue-and-groove option. As Cheechako points out, the deck beams are already more for appearance than what they would have traditionally been for. So, maybe it's OK to lean into that.

Whatever I do, I will try to make removable panels. I haven't seen anyone do this before, so there may be a good reason for that. But, I try to do all projects for my future self or the next person who comes along. By making removable panels, it would simplify the job of repairing or replacing the panels. Also, it leaves any wiring easily accessible.

I was watching a headliner replacement video and watched the guy just glue the headliner right over the wiring. His point was that the headliner was thick enough to conceal the irregularity, but I couldn't help but think about wanting to get at those wires for some reason.

The trick to removable panels is how to secure them. I did a similar project and used industrial strength adhesive velcro strips. Works great if you don't use too much velcro because it is wicked strong and you can easily make the panels virtually permanent. But, the adhesive, as good as it is, certainly doesn't last forever - maybe that's OK.

I had an upholstery guy offer up an interesting idea that he used in an RV project: magnets. The magnets can be permanently fixed to the ceiling and the panels and they do not care about moisture. I think it could work, and I may try it in a test location like in the head. Again, it would be a matter of getting the right number of magnets to get the right amount of hold.

I have some concerns about putting a bunch of powerful magnets throughout the upper deck. The compass is binnacle-mounted well away from this, but collectively they might be a problem. Perhaps other instruments wouldn't love this. I have friends who can answer this with real math and physics - things I don't believe in.

I think I'm probably better off looking at more traditional upholstery fasteners such as those used to hold panels in place in cars.

Anyway, thanks for the responses. I think I've talked myself into tongue-and-groove or at least that look. I can manufacture the panels off the boat and sand/trim them to a perfect fit on the boat. Should make it a manageable job.

Honestly, my big fear is that removing the old panels will reveal a mess. Still, they have to come off, for sure, in a couple of locations. I'll start in the head. Hmm ... I think it would be smart to do PVC in the head, per Mike's suggestion, even if I don't do that in the salon.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Foswick

You're happy with it? I see this a lot on newer boats and it seems to stand up surprisingly well to marine abuses.

Very happy.

There is virtually no indication of a join when butting one bit up to another. (Just under the deck beams there is a horizontal join)

[wholybee]

A thin panel, could be 1/4 inch ply, particle board, or a fiberglass or PVC panel like used to line a shower. Glue a thin upholstery foam to it, and then vinyl on top of it. A very polished professional look. Soft and sound deadening. Easy to clean.

[GordMay]

Overhead Liner ➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/galler...r&imageuser=79

[Kd9truck]

I would think carpet would be a wonderful place for a heathy colony of mold and a great place to file legacy smells from the galley and other places (lighter than air) gas’s are born.
I have a white leatherette stapled to 1/8 in luan, I painted both sides because raw wood is very poor porous and can collect smells also.
My hearing is gone, my eye sight is degrading, but my sense of smell is impeccable, if you have this cross to bear also go with something you can clean.

Just my simple thoughts, I hope I have not offended those with contrary views
Cheers.

[rognvald]

Hi, Foswick,
You're in for a major project with great chances of failure in some of the options offered. If the ceiling is physically secure and not falling, I would opt for a quality fabric paint(if fabric) or a matte enamel (if fiberglass) and paint with a textured roller. The fabric ceiling in my Pearson showed finger marks/smudges when we bought it in '95 and we painted it with a quality fabric paint. It still looks new after 29 years. And, whoever told you to glue over electrical wires gave you very bad advice. A boat is an object in a perpetual state of repair.
Good luck, Rognvald

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Kd9truck

I would think carpet would be a wonderful place for a heathy colony of mold and a great place to file legacy smells from the galley and other places (lighter than air) gas’s are born.
I have a white leatherette stapled to 1/8 in luan, I painted both sides because raw wood is very poor porous and can collect smells also.
My hearing is gone, my eye sight is degrading, but my sense of smell is impeccable, if you have this cross to bear also go with something you can clean.

Just my simple thoughts, I hope I have not offended those with contrary views
Cheers.

To avoid mildew in carpet and upholstery it is essential to have good ventilation. Of course you wouldn't have ceiling "carpet" above the galley. (mine is Formica (Laminex)

The ceiling "carpet" really isn't carpet as it is quite thin. I suggest it is probably made of synthetic, non moisture absorbing material They use it to line the interior of caravans and. motor cars.


https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17592707...3ABFBMqIHbi-lj