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Old 31-08-2013, 23:11   #16
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Re: Replacing Sea Cocks and Skin Fittings

[QUOTE=HopCar;1327700]"Are you sure that wasn't a steel fitting? That sure looks like a broken off galvanized pipe fitting."

The previous owner kept the boat in the Caribbean. That's also what I was thinking that it looks like steel. Who knows what goes on in shipyards when we're not there to watch what they do. I plan on making the repairs myself.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:17   #17
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Re: Replacing Sea Cocks and Skin Fittings

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Are you sure that wasn't a steel fitting? That sure looks like a broken off galvanized pipe fitting.

"Gunmetal is a bronze, similar to that used in the Spartan valves. Some reference sources quote gunmetal as 88% copper, 10% tin, and 2% zinc, while others describe it as 84-86% copper, 4-6% tin, 4-6%zinc and 4-6% lead."

This is the metal that most US manufacturers use for making seacocks and thru-hull fittings. It lasts vitutally forever in salt water. Most manufacturers just call it bronze. It is also called Gunmetal or Red Brass. The names are very inexact. What you want is an alloy with high copper and low zinc.

"84-86% copper, 4-6% tin, 4-6%zinc and 4-6% lead"
This is commonly called 85-5-5-5. It's fine for use in salt water. The pipe fittings on my seacocks are this alloy and they are over twenty years old.

" I have one Groco with the more modern teflon covered ball valve..."

Depending on the model, Groco uses either a stainless steel ball or a chrome plated brass ball. Neither is Teflon coated. They do ride on Teflon like seals.
The body is 85-5-5-5 Bronze/ Red Brass/ Gunmetal.
It sounds like the Groco seacock is a high quality unit. Thanks for the clarification on the teflon-like seals. Is this where they can get scored? Is this seal replaceable, and the seacock serviceable? Whenever I hear "maintenance-free" on a boat I get suspicious.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:34   #18
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Re: Replacing Sea Cocks and Skin Fittings

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It sounds like the Groco seacock is a high quality unit.
I just bought all new Groco Seacockcs and thru hulls. I was considering Marelon at first but at the end of the day thought that the Grocos should carry less risk.
I've understood that Groco should be a fairly ok quality product, not as expensive as Blakes or Spartan, but I hope good value for the money.
BTW, anyone know if the Grocos are 100% bronze or do they mix in some cheaper metal?
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:49   #19
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Re: Replacing Sea Cocks and Skin Fittings

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I just bought all new Groco Seacockcs and thru hulls. I was considering Marelon at first but at the end of the day thought that the Grocos should carry less risk.
I've understood that Groco should be a fairly ok quality product, not as expensive as Blakes or Spartan, but I hope good value for the money.
BTW, anyone know if the Grocos are 100% bronze or do they mix in some cheaper metal?
Check out HopCar's post a few postings above.
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Old 01-09-2013, 13:22   #20
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Re: Replacing Sea Cocks and Skin Fittings

"It sounds like the Groco seacock is a high quality unit. Thanks for the clarification on the teflon-like seals. Is this where they can get scored? Is this seal replaceable, and the seacock serviceable? Whenever I hear "maintenance-free" on a boat I get suspicious."

Groco makes two grades of seacock. The inexpensive ones are imported but I would have no concern putting them on my boat. I would expect them to last the life of the boat.

Their more expensive seacocks are really massive and made in Groco's factory here in the US.

In theory I guess they are serviceable but I've never heard of anyone doing it.
I used to carry rebuild kits for Apollo Conbraco valves and seacocks. The only thing that we sold any to speak of were stems for the 2-1/2" Apollo seacock.

All ball valve type seacocks seem to get stuck if they don't get exercised a couple of times a year. I have an extension handle I can drop over my seacock handle when it gets stuck. Never had a problem breaking it free with just a little extra leverage.

I sell this thing but you could certainly make your own.



Link: Seacock Helper
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Old 01-09-2013, 16:00   #21
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Re: Replacing Sea Cocks and Skin Fittings

Quote:
Originally Posted by HopCar View Post
"It sounds like the Groco seacock is a high quality unit. Thanks for the clarification on the teflon-like seals. Is this where they can get scored? Is this seal replaceable, and the seacock serviceable? Whenever I hear "maintenance-free" on a boat I get suspicious."

Groco makes two grades of seacock. The inexpensive ones are imported but I would have no concern putting them on my boat. I would expect them to last the life of the boat.

Their more expensive seacocks are really massive and made in Groco's factory here in the US.

In theory I guess they are serviceable but I've never heard of anyone doing it.
I used to carry rebuild kits for Apollo Conbraco valves and seacocks. The only thing that we sold any to speak of were stems for the 2-1/2" Apollo seacock.

All ball valve type seacocks seem to get stuck if they don't get exercised a couple of times a year. I have an extension handle I can drop over my seacock handle when it gets stuck. Never had a problem breaking it free with just a little extra leverage.

I sell this thing but you could certainly make your own.



Link: Seacock Helper
Thanks HopCar. Mine definitely get exercised more than twice/year, and I have a collection of cheater bars (short sections of galvanized pipe) that I have sometimes needed to use. On my one & only Groco, I think the problem may be that it is for one of the cockpit drains and is therefore left open all the time, unlike my other ones which get closed every time I'm away from the boat for any extended time. When I was recently hauled out and was servicing the Spartans, I noticed quite a bit of sea life attached to the inside of the three other seacocks for the cockpit & deck drains. It's encouraging to hear that you haven't had to sell a lot of rebuild kits for the Grocos over the years.
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Old 01-09-2013, 16:21   #22
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Re: Replacing Sea Cocks and Skin Fittings

My 1984 Spartans are 100%, and not at all fussy. My cockpit drains are quite stiff due to only being worked a few times a year. The head intake drips a few drops when opened, because it gets opened and shut every time the head is used. When the drips get annoying I'll simply tighten the shaft nut a tad, and the drip will stop. None have been honed in 20 years...

They are expensive, I'll give you that, but fussy? Not in my 25 years of Spartan seacock ownership.
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Old 02-09-2013, 19:56   #23
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Re: Replacing Sea Cocks and Skin Fittings

What types of lubrication can you recommend for groco seacocks? Which ones should be avoided?
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