Reused Cotter Pins...

[Sailor_Grant]

I have found that a multitude of cotter pins on my rig look clearly reused.

I want to replace them, however, it is a little scary to do aloft?

Some I absolutely have to replace as can be seen in the pictures, but some are not terrible...

Should I replace them, and if so, what are the best methods to do this?

Pictures attached.

[SVHarmonie]

Geez... that's a whole new definition of "cheap." If the PO was that cheap and ignorant, it might be worth investing in a full rigging survey. I'll be there is lots more wrongly done.

Certainly that one with only one leg of the cotter pin through the pin has to be changed. The others are less critical, but since you are up there anyway...

Doing them aloft isn't as scary as you might think. The tension on the rig will keep the clevis pin tight and prevent it from moving. Have an awl or icepick with you so you can leverage the pin so the cotter pin hole is fully exposed. A pair of vise grips might also come in handy to compress the fork to make the pin easier to fit.

That's some seriously bad ass bird deterrent you have there!

[Sailor_Grant]

You bet right! There was a lot more wrong with the entire rig. Wrong size clevis pins going into the chainplates, replaced all of those. Improperly sized swages for the lowers that attached to the chainplates, so put some bronze bushings around the clevis pins to make them proper.

After going aloft I found this with improperly sized swages for the tang plates, but hard to fix with the mast up so probably going to wait until next year and replace entire rig: https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ll-234258.html

I did a whole rigging inspection myself, certainly, the boat was neglected, but hopefully will bring her back to her rightful glory soon!

[model 10]

Once you get things correct, only bend the tangs 30deg, no more. Airplane mechanics would freak out at seeing cotter pins bent so little, but sailboats are a different deal. There is no reason to bend them any more than it takes to keep them from being loose in the pin. Done that way, cotter pins can be re-used.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Ecos

Once you get things correct, only bend the tangs 30deg, no more. Airplane mechanics would freak out at seeing cotter pins bent so little, but sailboats are a different deal. There is no reason to bend them any more than it takes to keep them from being loose in the pin. Done that way, cotter pins can be re-used.

Very good advice

I only bend one tang!

Cotter pins in a castellated nut is a different story but such is irrelevant on clevis pins.

[roverhi]

One of the Stephens Brothers of Sparkman and Stephens carried around a 30 degree wedge that he'd use to check cotter pin fitment. Mangling the pin isn't needed to keep it place. Sometimes its cleaner to bend the legs around the pin but only as a last resort.

If I'm seeing it right the pin in the head stay in mast head photo is in backwards. Clevis pins should only be installed so gravity will keep the pin from falling out. May not always keep the pin place with a missing cotter pin but way better than guaranteeing that it will fall out if the head is on the down gravity side.

To replace straighten the legs as best you can, tap the pin in to give the most clearance and pull with pliers. Needle nose vice grips work nicely. You can also use a hammer and punch/drift and in the eye to drive them out. Really handy if location makes it hard to get pliers on the pin.

[slug]

Originally Posted by Sailor_Grant

I have found that a multitude of cotter pins on my rig look clearly reused.

I want to replace them, however, it is a little scary to do aloft?

Some I absolutely have to replace as can be seen in the pictures, but some are not terrible...

Should I replace them, and if so, what are the best methods to do this?

Pictures attached.

That installation looks terrible ... fix it

“. Cotter pins .....Its length (below the head) should be 1 1⁄2 times the diameter of the clevis pin it is securing, and then the ends should be spread not more than 10 degrees to each side - a total spread of 20 degrees “

[gamayun]

Originally Posted by Sailor_Grant

I want to replace them, however, it is a little scary to do aloft?

This is downright scary to do aloft because you may need to use both hands to pull the head while pinching the ends. You'll definitely need both hands to spread the new pin. Make sure you're comfortable leaning back in your harness to get better leverage. You might also consider using a strap that goes from your harness to around the mast so you don't swing out. Can't remember what something like that is called. Lastly, consider tying your tools and bring lots of extra cotter pins. This job is easy to fumble things. I have a love/hate relationship with cotter pins. Hmmmm....perhaps "love" is too strong a word. I definitely like them a lot when they look good and I don't worry about them.

[skkeith]

I suggest reading Brion Toss. His "complete riggers apprentice" has good going aloft instructions. Also on his current website he strongly discourages the use of stainless cotter pins. Here is his quote:


Stainless pins are an abomination in the face of God; too stiff, too brittle, to horribly hard to remove. But we keep some around for underwater applications on stainless fittings.



also:

• Use the appropriate size – it should not be hard to push in.
• Length should be about 1 ½ times the clevis pin diameter.
• Suggests using bronze cotter pins instead of stainless. Bronze is easier to bend and straighten, and resists corrosion. (Avoid brass at all costs). Use stainless only at waterline.
• Use a “Y” not an “M”. Open the pins about 10° each
• Rotate the clevis pin until the legs of the cotter pin are over a flat surface and coat with a blob of silicon rubber. The legs stay put and there is no need to tape over.

Hey while I am plugging Brion, might as well mention he sells riggers pliers on his website which really make the job of removing pins aloft easier:


Tools

[Jim Cate]

Stainless pins are an abomination in the face of God; too stiff, too brittle, to horribly hard to remove. But we keep some around for underwater applications on stainless fittings.

Ya know, I've often thought this to be true, but feared to say so... heresy is always punished severely. The big problem with s/s pins is that they work harden as you bend them, and then don't want to straighten out enough to withdraw easily... especially if you bend them a lot, as many amateur riggers do.

But, I can't remember seeing bronze pins offered for sale in any chandlery I've been in. Any one with a good source? I'd be happy to make the change!

Jim