Rub Rail Question

[Matt sachs]

I'm to the point I need to decide about the rub rails for my project. Shes a 50 ft steely. I will be locking thru several dams going to the gulf and back. I've noticed other boats get banged around in the locks. Should I go with a traditional snap in rubber rail, or follow the advice of a retired coasty and build it as a sacrificial (wood) rail that can easily be replaced or repaired and painted as needed. What would you do?

[Sailmonkey]

Split stainless steel pipe?

[S/V Antares]

If I had a steel boat I would have welded on steel half round rails. Paint them once in a while.

If you want them to look better put a stainless hollow back strip on the outside. But then you have a bunch of screw holes that will rust.

[Matt sachs]

Some times I fail to see the obvious. Thanks. Maybe a stainless half round? I already have a stainless toe rail all the way around. That would look nice.

[Matt sachs]

More brain storming.... I'm picturing a stainless flat stock (say .375 by 1.5) welded on edge to the hull just below the toe rail running the full length of the boat. Then I could put the stanchion base out there to free up some deck space. (and not drill holes in my deck)

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

Some times I fail to see the obvious. Thanks. Maybe a stainless half round? I already have a stainless toe rail all the way around. That would look nice.

Easy to do.

It works well for these guys

[Blue Stocking]

Fender boards?--0r you planning to bounce the hull up and down the walls.

[markpierce]

Originally Posted by S/V Antares

If I had a steel boat I would have welded on steel half round rails. Paint them once in a while.

If you want them to look better put a stainless hollow back strip on the outside. But then you have a bunch of screw holes that will rust.

That's what's on the steel Coot.

[minaret]

Check out Taco Marine. You want a built in steel rail, half round or flat topped, with a rigid vinyl Taco rail with soft insert installed on it. Looks great, provides excellent rub rail bounce, and when it gets hammered you just replace the insert. They make some really big rub rails. They also make nice stainless rails with an insert.




Taco Metals Marine Products


Taco Metals Marine Products

[Matt sachs]

Originally Posted by Blue Stocking

Fender boards?--0r you planning to bounce the hull up and down the walls.

I dont want to ever touch the wall, but the guys that have been thru the tennessee river locks tell me the current in the lock when its being drained will push you up against the wall with some force. Epecially with a full keel. Ive seen bumpers slide up when the lock is draining and end up on the deck.

[boden36]

Matt, It is a good idea to have a rub rail - I wish I'd put one on when I built our boat. The suggestion of half round ss pipe is excellent, as it does not have a ledge underneath to catch on other boats if you are rafted together and the water is not dead calm.
You will have to continuously weld it so that the void inside is airtight. Beware distortion of surrounding plate.
Another way to do it is to weld short lengths of heavy stainless angle vertically and then bolt a heavy timber section to them. Less welding and replacable but rather crude.
For all deck fittings, make up bits of ss stock, drilled (not right through) and threaded to whatever you want and weld them into the deck.
For the genoa track I set them into the deck, for the stanchions, they are just butted onto the deck and stand proud.
Regards,
Richard.

[Matt sachs]

I going to do the half round pipe. Continuously welded. The rub with this boat (no pun intended ) is the wooden deck. Its epoxy saturated 3/4 ply with 1/8 fiberglass overlay. I realy dont want to drill any more holes than I have to.

[stillbuilding]

Is possible to get any number of heavy black rubber profiles in any length you want from 1" to 10" deep/wide and use in place of timber.

[Matt sachs]

Thank for the ideas. Maybe someaday, I'll actually get to spalsh her.