Saildrive, do I have a water leak?

[Eric Jan]

Hi all,

Appr. <4 weeks ago both saildrives (twin disc SP60's) have been serviced and they got net oil: ATF Dextron II.

Earlier I believe this oil is very transparant and hard to read.

Now, 4 weeks in, 25 to say 50 hours in the oil start to get some lighter color.

See picture and video...

Do I have a problem? any tips on how to test?

*we are already to far away to turn back to this mechanic location, etcetc.

picture: https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmF2zTEpUAfpj4Nx...hsnfg?e=T2pHTR
video: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmF2zTEpUAfpj4RC...E7LxQ?e=QhFy7e

[deblen]

I am no expert,but I thought all Dexron versions were dyed red to help find leaks. Your sample appears to have a red tinge to it,which would be normal.
The whitish tint could be from normal foaming with air,or it could be from a small amount of water(condensate or very small leak)
If you can suck a 1/2 glass or so of fluid & let it set a few hrs-
(1)Water will sink to bottom & be visible.
(2) Air /bubble froth will rise to top & dissipate.


As you can read,Dexron has had a long history & many chemical revisions.
However,it sounds like most revisions are backward compatible.
Hope this helps/Len
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON

[Eric Jan]

Absolutely Deblen, I will plan on sucking half a cup from it in the next days or so and see what happens. Maybe let it run a bit for say 15 minutes to 'mix it good' before sucking it.

The picture sample from earlier is at least 2 hours after turning it off, and earlier (day or 2 before looking the same) the engine has been off for >10 hours.

[team karst]

Bring a hotplate up to 320 deg F. Put a sample drop of the oil on it. If bubbles result, water is present. Highly definitive, easy test.

[Eric Jan]

Well got a couple more pictures. This has been taken soon after running the saildrive slowly forward & backward for 5ish minutes.

Lets give the cup some time.

The cooking was smoky as f, NO idea on actual temperature of the hotplate...
video of the cooking oil: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmF2zTEpUAfpj4Ub...WGKqA?e=JcwVFC

All advise is welcome.

*one image is new vs old

[team karst]

I see bubbles. so, there is water being boiled off. You can also try fresh oil from the can. Also, just a DROP or two

ps liquid water turns into steam at about a 1000:1 ratio.

VP or Yanmar??

Visible pink is a LOT of water, i am afraid....

[Eric Jan]

Thank you for the fast response, so water ;( really unhappy with that.

Saildrive is a Twin Disc SP60 with a Vetus M3.28 in front of it.
Oil is ATF Dexron II

I emailed the mechanic already + will give them a call probably wednesday.

[team karst]

If there is a way to vacuum out the oil, do it. I will assume boat is in water...

[Eric Jan]

The boat is in the water.

I can vacuum (some) out of it, and then replace with clean? see what happens?

I'm going to call the mechanic tomorrow, then probably search for a wharf :S... and then need to figure out parts + who is going to pay for it...

[team karst]

Vetus claims topside oil change. It will need several to clear the water. Of course, the leak point is still not identified yet. Hauling is ultimately necessary.
I would not leave the drive empty of oil. It will likely seep in even faster. ATF is cheap. Bearings and matched gearsets not.

[Eric Jan]

Yeah suspected to fill it with clean ATF.

Maybe an additional 'hail mary' question, say it was overfilled a bit, and it 'blew' the seal and water got it. When i re-fill it with enough clean ATF... any chance the seal would be okay again?

tnx a million this far!

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by Eric Jan

The boat is in the water.



I can vacuum (some) out of it, and then replace with clean? see what happens?



I'm going to call the mechanic tomorrow, then probably search for a wharf :S... and then need to figure out parts + who is going to pay for it...

Technodrive is my least favorite Saildrive, there’s nothing “Twindisc” about apart from the name.
Propshaft seals in my estimation should be replaced at every antifoul haulout, the cost benefit ratio leans heavily towards buying and installing 2 seals as opposed to an unscheduled haul out with water in the oil mid season. Having said that , those seals can be damaged in a heartbeat if a fishing line wraps the hub and jumps the deflector..... this one did. Weirdly, that yellow fishing line resisted the very sharp knife and and had a breaking strain of what seemed like 500 lbs.... actually I couldn’t break it at all.