Sea frost engine driven compressor

[Snyper]

Need to replace the compressor the mounting ear is cracked through making a leak anyone know the automotive cross over to these expensive compressors or I may look onto switching to 12v conversation. I was never fond of the engine driven, worked fast but a lot of leaks over the years

[john61ct]

Yes even the vendors who can sell you one will tell you better to go 12V these days, for exactly these expensive maintenance / unreliability issues.

I'm sure Cleave will be able to help, or call Rich Boren at CruiseRO.

[OzePete]

Changing to 12 volt systems is the trend, but if you are re-equipping what was an engine drive system with a 12VDC system, the eutectic tanks' evaporator tubing may need to be changed as the refrigerant velocity, and therefore ability to return oil to the compressor, is quite different.
Suggest you talk to Rich at CoolBlue Marine Refrigeration as they do reconstructs of eutectic plates.

Cheers OzePete

[NSboatman]

I have both the engine driven and 12v. Yeah, compressor is a bit spendy; and yeah it has to be installed well so there are no leaks or breaks. Alignment is critical. But if it is- man, that cooling power is nice. Ice cubes in less than an hour. 5 years now and we’ve had not a whimper out of the system- fingers crossed.

[wsmurdoch]

Do you have a photograph? Is there a nameplate?

Take a look at the Sanden and Seltec compressors and see if they look like yours. Engine Driven Compressor - RPARTS.COM Maybe http://www.rparts.com/adnl-info/Compressors/dkk.pdf

My Kollmann Marine system used a Sanden SD508. I replaced it myself with a Sanden SD5H14 model S6664 after I bought the boat in 2004. Google away to see prices. There are genuine Sanden compressors, rebuilt units, and copies out there.

I consider my engine drive system to be as reliable as an automotive A/C unit. There is little difference.

[SailRedemption]

I have a compressor that came with my boat that I'm no using.

Originally Posted by Snyper

Need to replace the compressor the mounting ear is cracked through making a leak anyone know the automotive cross over to these expensive compressors or I may look onto switching to 12v conversation. I was never fond of the engine driven, worked fast but a lot of leaks over the years

[Snyper]

Yes I was thinking of jus getting a sanden SD model and seeing how it goes they look identical

[tml]

Same thing happened several years ago. I was able to rotate the compressor 90 degrees and use one of the other flanges. My seafrost compressor had four flanges one on each corner. Worked for years.
I have used an engine drive combo with shore assist for many years. Would never give up the engine drive. It makes a lot of cold!
With new solar I would use 12 volt instead of 110
To

[tml]

Same thing happened several years ago. I was able to rotate the compressor 90 degrees and use one of the other flanges. My seafrost compressor had four flanges one on each corner. Worked for years.
I have used an engine drive combo with shore assist for many years. Would never give up the engine drive. It makes a lot of cold!
With new solar I would use 12 volt instead of 110
Tom

[wsmurdoch]

Originally Posted by Snyper

Yes I was thinking of jus getting a sanden SD model and seeing how it goes they look identical

Dimensions matter, especially the mount to sheave distance and the mounts themselves.

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by Snyper

Need to replace the compressor the mounting ear is cracked through making a leak anyone know the automotive cross over to these expensive compressors or I may look onto switching to 12v conversation. I was never fond of the engine driven, worked fast but a lot of leaks over the years

There are many expect-able replacement compressors new and re-manufactured that will work fine on your SeaFroost engine drive system, Sankyo SD508 or SD510, Ditzel Kikie, and Sandon. What is important is that their diameter and mounting flanges are the same. The replacements must have the correct refrigerant line connectors some are flare and others are O-ring straight thread connections and others are flange plate hose connections. Also important is the refrigerant servicing connections must be part of the complete compressor. The best way to find the correct replacement compressor is to take the old one to an auto parts store like NAPA they can cross reference you a replacement compressor.

Once you experience the performance efficiency of a correctly designed and installed engine driven refrigeration system you have to think twice before converting to a 12 volt system. With 12 volt refrigeration major changes to a boat’s electrical power grid are generally requires. Factory box insulation is rarely in question with engine driven refrigeration in moderate cruising climate temperatures. I have seen SeaFrost engine drive systems that required engine to be run only 15 minutes in the morning and 15 minutes in the evening.

Leaks are a problem with SeaFrost Swedgelock line connectors as the are not refrigeration quality if torque is not correct they leak. If over torqued connector is damaged. When one connection is found to leak it must be replaced.

[NSboatman]

Wot 'e said. That cooling power is awesome. And addictive!

[john61ct]

Wow, certainly making me rethink going battery-powered.

Especially since the same engine could generate the bank-charging energy and make high-gph water at the same time.

Ideally move to propulsion-only as well, and fit in the stock location where the Atomic 4 used to be.

Possible?

[mvmojo]

We used a SeaFrost engine driven refrigeration/freezer set up for 8 years on our 42' sailboat. Worked like a charm. The only problem we ever had was that the cast aluminum adjustment bracket broke while we were in Luperon, D.R. I took the two pieces to a local welder who fabricated a replacement out of mild steel. Cost me $17.00 USD and worked for another 5 years before we sold the boat. Running the engine an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening gave us a sub zero freezer, all the ice cubes we needed and essentially trouble free refrigeration. Bottom line, in similar circumstances, I'd buy it again!

[captaindanger70]

Sorry to hear about you sea frost problem but let me say I had one on my boat for 22 year and aside from good routine maintenance it require no work of any kind. if you stop the leaks of refrigerant the unit will serve you for years more than any 12 volt can and you have the benefit of cold power for freezer and ice box without any battery use except to start the engine. Lets you get fuller charges and less run time and lower rpm's while idling. This is huge when anchored and want the peace of no engine noise and of course no compressor noise all night long. For times at the dock sea frost makes a 110 backup system which I did not use since I was in the Caribbean and did not stay at the dock.
So good luck with final choice.