Sealing Chain Plate

[DSDman]

So you can see how these go thru the cap and into the boat. I've sealed all I can from the top and then as you can see put aluminum tape on just to make sure that no water was coming in from the top. The water is running around and under the teak rail and seeping in from the crack between the fiberglass and the teak. Am I doomed to removing the teak rail and all that entails or is there some other way to go about this?

[DeepFrz]

Am I doomed to removing the teak rail and all that entails

I would think so.

[rebel heart]

Originally Posted by DSDman

So you can see how these go thru the cap and into the boat. I've sealed all I can from the top and then as you can see put aluminum tape on just to make sure that no water was coming in from the top. The water is running around and under the teak rail and seeping in from the crack between the fiberglass and the teak. Am I doomed to removing the teak rail and all that entails or is there some other way to go about this?

If I understand you right, couldn't you seal them from the inside? Pull the plate out, then epoxy or caulk the inside of the crack. You could check the seal when the plate is still out, pouring some water on the deck and seeing if gets in there.

It's not ideal, but it might work.

Another thing I'd consider is rinsing those decks with salt water when you can. The fresh water living in the cracks like that if it can't drain can get rotten quick and sea water tends to stop that.

[Albro359]

You have to seal the outside...sealing the inside still allows the water to get in...it will just come out somewhere else eventually.

[rebel heart]

Originally Posted by Albro359

You have to seal the outside...sealing the inside still allows the water to get in...it will just come out somewhere else eventually.

If it's just some teak sitting on fiberglass it's no big deal if that joint "leaks". It's (I think) only an issue because there's a hole in the fiberglass that lets water run in and down the chainplate.

[DSDman]

The way it is designed it is almost impossible to actually get up to that slot from the inside, plus it is "sealed" with copious amounts of 5200 from when the PO replaced the chain plates. I'm at a stand still on doing anything to the inside wood work until I figure out this piece. I think I'm going to have remove that teak cap all the way around and reseal the joint. While it's off I'll either replace it with something lower maint or seal and paint it. I wish there was some product out there I could pour on and let it follow the cracks and seal them without me having to do all this.

[vientoman]

Originally Posted by DSDman

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So you can see how these go thru the cap and into the boat. I've sealed all I can from the top and then as you can see put aluminum tape on just to make sure that no water was coming in from the top. The water is running around and under the teak rail and seeping in from the crack between the fiberglass and the teak. Am I doomed to removing the teak rail and all that entails or is there some other way to go about this?

DSD Man.

First thing in the morning, go to your boat and take off all that tape you put on. Although Teak is really good about not rotting, all your doing is sealing in moisture. Wood hates that. It is beyond futal to attempt to keep water from seeping down those tang openings with tape.

You are better off pulling up your tape and pouring a mixture of pine tar, teak oil, a dash of linseed oil, japan dryer and turpentine down those gaps. Keep doing that and the internal leaks will eventually seal themselves up from above.

That was the age old method of fixing this sort of problem in the days of sail. The called it "schooner wash". the added bonus is that you get to go sailing instead of wasting your time ripping off all your beautiful teak.

Bottom line, be constructive, not destructive. It's most likely not structural.

[vientoman]

or.......let it all dry out, get a block of bees wax and a propane torch then warm the chainplates up enough to allow the bees wax to seep down in the cracks where water would want to go.

This is an unconventional technique and I'm sure your going to get fifty post saying that I'm an idiot but that's how I would handle it. Like they say in the medical profession,....do no harm and I don't think this would.

As for teak, people worry too much about the stuff. I met a guy in key west who located a teak chinese junk that had been submerged for over 500 years and he hauled it up on land, repaired it and its out there on top of the water sailing again.

[sloopygirl]

Originally Posted by DSDman

I wish there was some product out there I could pour on and let it follow the cracks and seal them without me having to do all this.

There is some type of liquid caulk - comes in a little tube - very runny. Made by Boatlife - Life-Caulk. I got it by mistake for a different type project - but I could see it working for you.

Good luck - a dry boat is a great thing!

[DeepFrz]

I would have said "do no harm" as well had it not been for the cracks in the side railing that are visible in the first picture. It looks to me like there is some structural damage there. But, if all the chainplates are leaking, there is definitely something wrong. If water is getting in under the teak it is likely/possible it is getting into the core material. I don't think a little bees wax will cure that.

[SV Demeter]

Why not take fein tool and just remove the teak where it is around the chainplates? No need to take the whole bloody rail off just remove it for say 2-3" on either side of the chainplate then caulk the joint between the chainplate and the fiberglass with life seal?

[rebel heart]

Originally Posted by SV Demeter

Why not take fein tool and just remove the teak where it is around the chainplates? No need to take the whole bloody rail off just remove it for say 2-3" on either side of the chainplate then caulk the joint between the chainplate and the fiberglass with life seal?

That's sort of what I'm thinking. Resealing chainplates at least for me is a normal maintenance item. The things move.

[DSDman]

I was thinking that today. Do you just leave it uncovered our do you put something back in it's place? I was thinking of cutting a vinyl facia board to match the teak rail and split it in half. Then sink stainless screws in it to hold it back together. sort of make it so that it would clamp around the chain plates. Then everytime I need to reseal the plates just unscrew and go to town. that way I wouldn't have to undo rigging. of course I guess I could do the same with new teak but that would be more expensive.

[rebel heart]

You have a ketch too, so you've got a lot more chainplates (I think...) than a normal sloop.

I dunno. I'd still pop the plate out, it's not that big of a thing, then just clean the teak/fiberglass joint from the inside hole where the chainplate was, then put some life caulk in the gap (again, from the inside), pour some water around on deck, and make sure none gets through. Badda bing, badda boom.

[DSDman]

I'll get some pics of the inside, maybe change your mind about taking them out.