Sealing slightly over-sized hose

[hellosailor]

The traditional self-amalgamating tape is, I believe, a "butyl" compound. Often is a bit thick (at least the 3M version is) and given 48 hours to set up and cure, it becomes rather hard.


The "rescue" tape is, I think, one of the new "silicone" based tapes. Also sold in 3-packs in the "as seen on tv" goods. The silicone tapes don't get rock hard, don't seem to be quite as permanent, and I'd worry less about whether they might also glue the hose to the fitting, so to speak.


But you can buy plain black rubber electrical tape as well. They used to wrap high voltage connections in plain black rubber tape, and black friction tape to hold it in place because there was no adhesive on the tape. This plain black rubber tape is cheap and durable.


You can also find many uses for a punctured (trashed) bicycle inner tube, or a piece of car or truck inner tube, the same way. A spot of rubber cement or scotch tape is all the adhesive it will really need. Any of this stuff can build up a "gasket" layer over the stub. If you cut from the inner tube, you can make that an inch or two wide if need be, totally even.


Of course a proper yachtsman would have his machinist fabricate a proper bronze adapter to join the two. Standards, mind you, we must maintain the standards here.(G)

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Yeah, Rescue Tape is just a retailers name for the self amalgamating electrical tape I mentioned early on. Commercial electricians use it on 600 volt line fittings etc. Good to something like 350 degrees and becomes one mass of product once used. Has to be cut off. I've seen it in construction up to 3" wide.
McMaster-Carr

Any idea if this stuff is like butyl tape or duck tape, that is there's the good stuff and the cheap junk that disintegrates in six months?

I've looked at this in the past online and see 1" X 10' rolls from $7 to $25, which is what it lists at the McMaster Carr link you posted, $22 from West Marine. So do you get what you pay for or is it all the same? So far in my experience I haven't seen any difference in the different brands I have used.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Of course a proper yachtsman would have his machinist fabricate a proper bronze adapter to join the two. Standards, mind you, we must maintain the standards here.(G)

I'm thinking your standards (and budget) must be a bit higher than mine.

[sailorboy1]

I've got rescue tape on the boat and it's great stuff and once sealed my shaft seal flexible boot for 3 months with it. But I think that a wrap of it may reverse the problem to the hose now being too loose.

Since I've already spent $$$$$$$ on this project maybe I'll just get some 1/2" hose and try it.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

............... It's not a bad idea to have a dozen or so rolls of this tape onboard for emergencies to close of leaks. It's the kind that stretches and only sticks to itself. It's actually mean for this sort of purpose.

If you need a dozen rolls of rescue tape on your boat to close leaks, you would be better off saving your money to buy a better boat!


Reading these "fixes" makes me leery of going out in someone else's boat.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by rwidman

If you need a dozen rolls of rescue tape on your boat to close leaks, you would be better off saving your money to buy a better boat!

What would you suggest as an upgrade from an Oyster?

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by rwidman

Reading these "fixes" makes me leery of going out in someone else's boat.

That works for me and bet a lot of us (because I've heard from some)

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Any idea if this stuff is like butyl tape or duck tape, that is there's the good stuff and the cheap junk that disintegrates in six months?

I've looked at this in the past online and see 1" X 10' rolls from $7 to $25, which is what it lists at the McMaster Carr link you posted, $22 from West Marine. So do you get what you pay for or is it all the same? So far in my experience I haven't seen any difference in the different brands I have used.

Anything at WM? Priced right is not the phrase I'd associate with WM.

[hellosailor]

skip-
My budget isn't all that big, sometimes, I have to tell the chauffer to let the Rolls sit in the garage for a day longer, while he's busy helping the blacksmith on these more delicate machining jobs. My bankers insist there is simply not enough work to justify hiring on a full-time machinist, and they don't seem to understand that buying a larger yacht would certainly solve that problem. It's so hard to find good help.(G)


"Any idea if this stuff is like butyl tape or duck tape, that is there's the good stuff and the cheap junk that disintegrates in six months?"
Isn't it always? The Rescue people say their product is way better than the "tv" version and I suspect that might be so. The tv stuff sometimes unsticks itself, and if one or the other has a higher voltage resistance, who'd know?
Same thing with duct tape. The "Duck" people say theirs is better; 3M makes different qualities of it, and specs them. Gorilla makes one they say is way above the usual. And then of course, there's gaffers' tape, which doesn't leave adhesive residue but also doesn't last as long, it dries out instead of getting gummy.
So you try a few, whatever you can lay hands on, and write if off as a learning expense until you find the best ones for each job.


Except used inner tubes. Those are worth every penny they never cost you! And way less than what the USN pays for damage control versions of the same.(G)

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

skip-
My budget isn't all that big, sometimes, I have to tell the chauffer to let the Rolls sit in the garage for a day longer, while he's busy helping the blacksmith on these more delicate machining jobs. My bankers insist there is simply not enough work to justify hiring on a full-time machinist, and they don't seem to understand that buying a larger yacht would certainly solve that problem. It's so hard to find good help.

I can tell it's a tough life. You do have my sympathies for all you must endure.

Originally Posted by hellosailor

"Any idea if this stuff is like butyl tape or duck tape, that is there's the good stuff and the cheap junk that disintegrates in six months?"
Isn't it always? The Rescue people say their product is way better than the "tv" version and I suspect that might be so. The tv stuff sometimes unsticks itself, and if one or the other has a higher voltage resistance, who'd know?
Same thing with duct tape. The "Duck" people say theirs is better; 3M makes different qualities of it, and specs them. Gorilla makes one they say is way above the usual. And then of course, there's gaffers' tape, which doesn't leave adhesive residue but also doesn't last as long, it dries out instead of getting gummy.
So you try a few, whatever you can lay hands on, and write if off as a learning expense until you find the best ones for each job.

I can absolutely confirm that there are huge differences between one brand of duck tape and another. Gorilla tape I have found so far is definitely heavy duty. The one drawback, none of them like moisture. I swear if a surface was wet yesterday then no brand of duck tape will stick today. Had a hole in the deck I was working on when a rain shower popped up. Needed to keep the hole dry so got some good duck tape, dried off the spot with an umbrella overhead and it would not stick at all! Tried gorilla tape, same results. Even wiped the spot with IPA and let it sit for a bit and still no joy. I need some underwater tape.

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Except used inner tubes. Those are worth every penny they never cost you! And way less than what the USN pays for damage control versions of the same.(G)

Inner tubes, a must have repair material. Better than a box full of bobby pins and chewing gum. Used some just a couple of weeks back when I needed new gaskets in the caps that seal the inflator fittings in the dink. Worked like a charm and were certain worth what they cost me.

[undercutter]

I have taken to using T bolt clamps or MJ Bands I think they are called in NA. Much stronger typically used on exhaust systems. These seem to work great and are of much better quality.

Have found these in Oz down to 1/2".

Might also try to find some heavywall 1/2" hose and hone out the one end to fit the fitting on the genset.

[Barney21]

If you dont like the "Tape " idea " Dockhead " suggested have you thought of some two pack metal putty , it will take a little while to harden properly but you can get a rough finish so the hose will grip. I would still tie wire your clamp back to the base of the fitting this will stop the hose popping off completely. But I would not use it as a permanent solution . Get the right hose/fitting!

[ggray]

More permanent than layers of tape mentioned would be to wrap it with that wet cure fiberglass tape sold for emergency pipe repair. Clean and rough the barb first.

I carry the stuff on board, but have actually never used it before.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

The traditional self-amalgamating tape is, I believe, a "butyl" compound. Often is a bit thick (at least the 3M version is) and given 48 hours to set up and cure, it becomes rather hard ...

I'm not aware of any butyl electrical tape - 3M or other.

Scotch 23 (0.76mm thick, and 130C (0.762 mm thick) self amalgamating tapes are EPR (Ethylene Propylene Rubber).

Scotch 70 Silicone Rubber Electrical Tape is a 0.3mm thick, high temperature arc-and track-resistant tape composed of self-fusing, inorganic silicone rubber, with easy-tear and easy-strip liner.