Securing deck hardware when you can't get to the backing

[jbinbi]

I want to install a small pad eye in the cockpit to hold my locker open. Where I want to install it, I can't get to the underside that I could secure it with a bolt. I know that that my dodger was installed without nuts on the backside of the bracket mounts, so this is always done. Just don't know how..

What type of screw should I be using? I am assuming I drill a pilot hole, caulk, then screw? Sorry for this simple question.

[markxengineerin]

I don't know the proper way to do it, if there is such a thing, but I know what I did with my dodger after a bunch of the screws fell out/stripped out/whatever. I injected a thick resin/collodial silica mix (just thick enough so it doesn't run everywhere and make a mess) into the stripped out holes, coated the screw threads with the same stuff, and pushed/screwed 'em back in. They are holding fine now. I would do the same for new holes. I think epoxy is better than bedding compound in this application because it also provides a little extra strength, and bedding compound eventually likes to leak. G/Flex would be resin of choice. You could also coat the back of your pad eye (sand it first) and the screws would almost be redundant at that point.

[Enfant Du Vent]

Ahoy jbinbi"
There's always the poor man's method of holding locker open.
Just cut a 2 x 4 long enough to prop it up.
(I decided to do this after one time I'd used locker access to engine and realized that if locker fell closed I'd be trapped in there forever.

[markxengineerin]

3M very high bond (VHB) double sided tape is another possible choice for this. I have been using it to hold lightly loaded fairleads to the mast, and it has been great. Your forces are even lower.

[Tin Tin]

You may be able to use a Well Nut (rubber insert) or an alumnium or stainless Rivnut. The recommend using threadlocker to stop the securing bolt shaking loose. Google them eg.
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.co...are-they-used/

[deblen]

Just use self drilling self tapping 316 or 18-8 screws for a light duty application such as yours. Apply a daub of sealant/bedding compound to back of bracket.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/st...ews-for-metal/


https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice...right-fastener

[neilpride]

Gas spring.

[Franziska]

Have look in my old thread here:

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...d.php?t=272581

I ended up using a carbontape layup instead of drilling holes, but there might be a solution in which you could use.

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[jbinbi]

Originally Posted by neilpride

Gas spring.

yup. but goes back to my question. how did you put the screws in, what type. I don't think you can get to the back of the bottom strut.

If I use a strut, then I am drilling thru only the wall of the hatch and have access to the both inside and outside and can use a nut, washer, bolt.

But it doesn't answer my question, which to insert a pad eye in the cockpit.

[jbinbi]

Originally Posted by neilpride

Gas spring.

Originally Posted by markxengineerin

3M very high bond (VHB) double sided tape is another possible choice for this. I have been using it to hold lightly loaded fairleads to the mast, and it has been great. Your forces are even lower.

Thanks. However, can you get this off if you want to take the pad eye off?

I didn't know about welnuts, this seems to be the answer.

[neilpride]

Originally Posted by jbinbi

yup. but goes back to my question. how did you put the screws in, what type. I don't think you can get to the back of the bottom strut.

If I use a strut, then I am drilling thru only the wall of the hatch and have access to the both inside and outside and can use a nut, washer, bolt.

But it doesn't answer my question, which to insert a pad eye in the cockpit.

Having dissected the complete interior of a Beneteau, what looks like there is no place to go, there is, but I don't know if your boat has one of those interior FG liners plugging the gap?

Back to your question, the spring gas bracket in the cockpit lid, you can drill a countersink hole on top , and with nuts under,and use a flush head screw.


As the pad eye is going to be almost decorative, as it will not support more than the weight of the cockpit hatch, you can use self tapping screws, make a pilot hole, and use some wd40, take it out again and apply some sealant, although I admit I hate this method, I have always tried to avoid any screw that is not backed by a nut or backing plate.

By the way, fastening a bimini frame with self tapping screws sucks.

[Senojev]

Better than a self tapping screw would be to drill/tap and use a machine fine thread bolt

[markxengineerin]

Thanks. However, can you get this off if you want to take the pad eye off?

Yes, you can peel it off. Adhesive is weak in tension, strong in shear, so you can pry up a corner.

Drilling and tapping into what is likely a very thin layer of fiberglass then some foam or wood core is not a good idea, with fine thread being especially bad. You want the coarsest thread possible.

By the way, fastening a bimini frame with self tapping screws sucks.

Maybe, but there are about 30 of them, and if a wave crashes down, what do you want to be the fuse?

To O.P. : Forces are not the issue here- do something that is the least likely to leak...

[team karst]

Originally Posted by Tin Tin

You may be able to use a Well Nut (rubber insert) or an alumnium or stainless Rivnut. The recommend using threadlocker to stop the securing bolt shaking loose. Google them eg.
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.co...are-they-used/

I use wellnuts. but, don't buy from amazon. China imports had the brass insert break away from the neoprene after a month....

I would NOT drill for a sheet metal screw in thin fiberglass. Cracks,,,,

[neilpride]

Counting that every time the bimini vibrates or moves in the wind those 30 end up loose, hence the leaks.

Personally, if I saw that the waves were breaking in the cockpit, I wouldn't have the bimini up.