Seizing Wire as Hose Clamp / Clamptite

[Franziska]

It's a bit of a side comment.

What I really hate is that many hoseclamps that are sold as stainless steel turn out to have a galvanized screw.
Later, that screw starts rusting.

Someone once told me that this is done because the galvanized screw has less friction. It's still a big pain.

[skipgundlach]

Clamptite makes bargain and robust varieties of their small size clamps; the bargain version is an anodized aluminum barrel and the robust stainless steel.

I did literally every hose clamp with the smaller one, and mounted my outboard mounting plates to my arch frame with the larger one.

15 years later, and various unfriendly shakings of the assembly later, those engine mounts were still firmly attached with the heavier wire I used.

Farmers use coat hanger wire if they don't have the right wire at hand.

Simply put, they work. But for safety in the marine environment, I like Monel wire better than stainless; my initial hose clamps showed some rust after a few years, and using the Monel solved that. I was able to use it even in very constricted locations, with a bit of planning. And you can tighten it to the degree you'll break whatever wire you're using. As I've been known to break bolts due to overtorquing, I've had to redo a few clamptite-d wires. But they have no protrusions nor ability to cut or snag you if you do them right, and are very low profile all around.

That said, for connections I'll remove and replace on any frequency, I still use the solid screw-type hose clamps unless I REALLY want it stuck there. The wire can be single, doubled or even tripled if you're concerned about strength.

[Iron E]

In an emergency, I would use anything. But I have extra hose clamps.
I can't picture myself finagling that tool and wire while lying on my back and reaching through a small opening.

On a somewhat related note, hose clamps are sharp and dangerous in close tight areas, taping, plastidipping, or capping the ends with vinyl tip covers/guards is always a good idea.

[meirriba]

I don't like the wire option.
The wire is thin and puts a high pressure on the hose, trying to cut it.
The clamps spread the pressure.
As a (retired) surveyor, I would not accept it and will mark it for replacement in my report.

[searenity38]

My problem would be that most hose clamps that I need access to don't allow me enough room to work. Sometimes it's all I can do to get a clamp in place and use a screw diver, nut driver or socket wrench.

[hzcruiser]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

I’m an opponent of the seizing wire in place of hose clamps (and an opponent of the slotted hose clips). First off,all the pressure on the hose casing is in two narrow cheese cutter bands, also the tension is difficult to estimate and hose damage is possible...... this is almost guaranteed on silicone hose with both the wire idea and the perforated type hose clips. If you have a mechanic come to work on your engine and he has to cut off all those hinky wire things you better either have a handful of the right size hose clamps on board or the clamptite tool to redo the hoses because there’s no way to reuse the old wire ties. The automotive industry has a good solution to the hose clamp dilemma with those spring clips, squeeze em with the pliers until they lock open, give the latch a flick with a screwdriver and they’re tight again..... and self adjusting. Only trouble is, they’re difficult bordering on impossible to find in a stainless steel version.

I'd say the stainless slotted hose clips are the way to go. I didn't even know the spring clips can be pushed to lock open, or I never managed to put one in that position, will have to try next time I come across one.

What's wrong with "normal" gear drive hose clamps though?

[GrowleyMonster]

As an emergency damage control technique, it is a potentially useful thing. I have even used paracord and a constrictor knot in an emergency. But expedient, emergency repairs need to be undone and fixed correctly when resources are available.

Worm screw hose clamps are the standard. and marine grade SS hose clamps in particular are the standard on boats. They can be loosened, re-tightened, even re-used. Even so, I much prefer two hose clamps when two will fit.

Wire can cut into hoses, immediately and also over time. It can corrode and rust. Yes, even SS can corrode. Bending or twisting wire weakens it. If you need to break the connection, the wire must be cut without damage to the hose.

A sack of assorted marine grade hose clamps is a NECESSARY part of the spares kit. If on a voyage you have managed to use all of your spare hose clamps within a size range and you need to improvise, then improvise to stop the leak or spill or flooding. When you are up to your knees in bilge water is no time to shriek and rip your hair out and agonize over ABYC rules. Gitter done, get the boat back to civilization, and then fix it right. And re-stock on hose clamps. Home Depot and Walmart are not where you get proper marine hose clamps. They are worse than wire. At least with wire, it is obvious that you have a discrepency that needs to be remedied. A galvanized screw hose clamp might look perfectly innocent until it corrodes and breaks. They can masquerade as good SS clamps, so don't even buy home grade or automotive grade hose clamps for the boat. Sure, you can save a couple hundred bucks on a sack of hose clamps by buying doubtful or known galvanized ones, and yeah I am a cheap bastard, but some things ought not be compromised. For want of a nail, the war was lost. Save $1 on a hose clamp and pay a huge fine or repair bill? Or even if you are extremely unlucky, lose the boat?

Routine use of wire for hose clamping should NOT be part of your boat maintenance plan, even if it can, "work". In SHTF emergency damage control, zip ties, net twine, anything that might stand in for the hose clamps that you should have bought before leaving your slip, obviously must be used, until you get another chance to do the sensible thing and get the right stuff. Even if you have to overpay at Worst Marine, get real marine hose clamps. If you didn't, then use wire or twine and cross your cheap little fingers that it gets you safely into port where you can find the stuff you should have never gone to sea without in the first place, to fix it right.

In the bigger picture, cost of good hose clamps is not really significant. Go ahead and spend $200 or $300 on a nice assortment of high quality hose clamps. If you own and use your boat long enough, you will one day be very glad to have them.

One of my guilty pleasures is having 5/16" nut drivers all over the boat, often in makeshift holders or pockets or brackets in engine compartment, utility spaces, and other places where I might need to quickly change or tighten or remove a hose clamp. A nut driver can be much more effective than a screwdriver, especially with cold, wet hands, or an awkward access angle to the clamp's screw. You get a positive engagement that doesn't slip off. Likewise I have commonly used wrenches in my battery box, near water pumps, and other places like that, but I am getting off topic. Get 5/16" and 1/4" nut drivers and keep them handy where you have a lot of hose clamps installed.

[vpbarkley]

If you look at https://www.mcmaster.com/products/hose-clamps/ you will see many varieties of hose clamps that will do the job.

Compared to screw clamps, pinch clamps are economical, more reliable and take up little space. It's inexpensive to stock them in all sizes.

A plier type tool used to pinch the clamp. They are one use and need to be cut off to be removed.

Years ago we purchased heavy cedar fishing boat. All the hose connections were secured with 1 turn of copper wire that was twisted, the way you would apply a twist tie. None failed in over 20 years of daily use in Florida salt water.

[Bloodhound]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

Farmers use coat hanger wire if they don't have the right wire at hand.

Farmers rarely use coat hangers, even for hanging coats. They use bailing wire for quick in-the-field repairs and for anything a hose clamp would work for. Today most modern bailers use twine which unfortunately can't be used in quite the same way :-)

[Shaneesprit]

Originally Posted by GreenWave

Wire- no way. I think I would use a zip tie in an emergency before wire!

Yeap nothing faster than a zip tie reliable too. Although some of the cheap ones just break in half.
I did like the tool though I won’t be buying one.

[hirondeller]

I own the clamp-tite tool, it works well, it is expensive for what it does.

The wiring process is 'fussy' and it takes a bit of practice. You need to develop a 'feel' when the clamp-tite tool is tight enough, remember that the last 180 degree swing of the tool will add a fair amount of tension. It is true that you might not have room to swing the tool in some cases.

I use stainless wire and wrap the hose with 3 turns of aluminum tape first (the tape for AC ducts). I find that the AL tape protects the hose from being cut or crushed. I trust the wired connections more than the screw type hose clamps which have a tendency to loosen under vibration. I reserve these wired hose clamps for occasions where I don't have to remove and replace the hose often (fixing a garden hose, pump spigot, etc.).

Note that you can find videos that duplicate the clamp-tite tool's function by using a long bolt, two nuts and a washer with two holes drilled in it. Here is another home-made type using a hinge:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uc3BbShYLp0

Hammer the cut ends down as shown, to prevent a nasty cut

Not just for hoses, if you break a wooden rod or 'stick' many wire turns with a clamp-tite tool will produce an emergency repair.