Skookum 47 Refit - San Francisco to Mexico

[minaret]

Originally Posted by SF Bay Dude

Thanks for the info dissidens. It sounds like you've done all the proper prep work, which is where you'll see the results of a clean and lasting finish. I'll end up staying in the marine family of paints, but again, if you and the reps think it will hold, then why not?! I just got a quart of Kiwi-Grip that I am going to be apply to a large area of plywood. I plan on hosing it down with water, walking and moving on it, taking a running jump onto it, etc., to see what kind of grip I'll get. I would love to use it, as it's water based and I don't have to deal with adding in a grip additive. Hopefully it's up to the challenge.

I am mired in some paint work around the house as it were… New garage door needed a finish coat before the rains come (they're gonna come, right?…) We need some rain. Also dug up a few images of the interior. Down below she is looking good. The varnish is a bit tired on the floor, but I'll get that spiffed up too. All in good time. This photo helps me keep going man. SO much work up top, but she's pretty dreamy down below.

Make sure to leave your test panel out till it's good and dirty, then try to clean it. Kiwigrip is often a bear to keep really clean. Also, walk on it and be sure you like the feel underfoot.

[brantleychuck]

For gel try revchem. Right along the 15 fwy Blomington Cali


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[SF Bay Dude]

Make sure to leave your test panel out till it's good and dirty, then try to clean it. Kiwigrip is often a bear to keep really clean. Also, walk on it and be sure you like the feel underfoot.

I thought being barefoot was implied I used one-part Interlux and their grip additive on my last boat and found that it got dirtier than I thought it would. Does a two-part hold up better than one-part in regards to dirt and cleaning?

[SF Bay Dude]

Originally Posted by brantleychuck

For gel try revchem. Right along the 15 fwy Blomington Cali

Thanks!

Also, I just laid down a test patch of Kiwigrip.



The left side I pushed down much harder on the roller, as that's supposed to create a more aggressive tread. The right side was just a nice easy roll over. I wonder what this stuff is going to feel like underfoot? Part of me is skeptical. I feel like it's going to be slick with no bite because there's no "grit" to it. That's why I am leaning towards paint + aggregate, but I am really hoping this stuff works, because it's water based and super easy to use. Just have to wait a day to mess around on it.

[brantleychuck]

Might try this stuff. http://www.tuffcoat.net/wordpress/. Tuff coat marine


There's a site. Beach House Trawler. He used this product many years ago and is happy with it.. I just used it on my boat. It was easy to apply and after a very quick learning curve it comes out perfect, And it does hide the flaws. If ordering quantity go direct to mfr. tou can also buy at Cabellas, if you want to try it out. The primer is a two part epoxy but the anti skid is water based and used right out of the can. Two coats is recommended but you can do more if you want.
Here is a pic of my pilot house roof


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[minaret]

Originally Posted by SF Bay Dude

Thanks!

Also, I just laid down a test patch of Kiwigrip.



The left side I pushed down much harder on the roller, as that's supposed to create a more aggressive tread. The right side was just a nice easy roll over. I wonder what this stuff is going to feel like underfoot? Part of me is skeptical. I feel like it's going to be slick with no bite because there's no "grit" to it. That's why I am leaning towards paint + aggregate, but I am really hoping this stuff works, because it's water based and super easy to use. Just have to wait a day to mess around on it.

Just be sure to do a google search for these products here on CF. They have been discussed ad nauseum.

[SF Bay Dude]

Just be sure to do a google search for these products here on CF. They have been discussed ad nauseum.

I hear you dude. That's why I've got 2 choices I pull from. I want to test the Kiwigrip for myself and see how it feels underfoot. It's much too personal of a choice to ask what others think regarding non-skid. It's like asking what kind of BBQ Sauce you want, or do you dry rub or marinate? I'm not wading into that mess!

I was surprised that you said you could spray the awlgrip + aggregate. I would think the particles would clog the spray head. Did I mis-understand, or is that the case? On my last boat I used a red-pepper shaker (the type at pizza joints) to sprinkle the aggregate evenly. I just kept singing, "When your eye, hits the sky…" the whole way through

[minaret]

Originally Posted by SF Bay Dude

I hear you dude. That's why I've got 2 choices I pull from. I want to test the Kiwigrip for myself and see how it feels underfoot. It's much too personal of a choice to ask what others think regarding non-skid. It's like asking what kind of BBQ Sauce you want, or do you dry rub or marinate? I'm not wading into that mess!

I was surprised that you said you could spray the awlgrip + aggregate. I would think the particles would clog the spray head. Did I mis-understand, or is that the case? On my last boat I used a red-pepper shaker (the type at pizza joints) to sprinkle the aggregate evenly. I just kept singing, "When your eye, hits the sky…" the whole way through

Yes, you can. You need a larger tip if going to Extra-Coarse Griptex. I use a flour sifter at about shoulder height (depending on wind) for manual application. This gives a perfect skid pattern, but roller laps in the topcoat may still be visible. Sprayed provides the best finish.


Couldn't agree more with your approach. Don't let others decide for you. I don't like Kiwigrip because it has a slightly rubbery feel underfoot which I don't love, is hard to keep clean, and is less aesthetically pleasing. JMHO. You might well disagree, many do. Deciding before you have committed to it is always best.

[SF Bay Dude]

Yes, you can. You need a larger tip if going to Extra-Coarse Griptex. I use a flour sifter at about shoulder height (depending on wind) for manual application. This gives a perfect skid pattern, but roller laps in the topcoat may still be visible. Sprayed provides the best finish.

Cool beans. Thanks!!!

[SF Bay Dude]

Time is rapidly marching by, and I am still squirreling way parts and tools for the trip south. But I have another project that's on the list. Varnish. Thank goodness she doesn't have any wood above except for her rub-rail (which is greyed and unvarnished) - everything fiberglass, stainless, or aluminum. The floors down below are another beast though.

I've searched for interior varnish projects, but didn't find what I was looking for.

I'm sure I won't have time, but if somehow do (or for down the road), I want to start thinking about sanding/varnishing the interior floor. There are a few spots where it's worn, and other places where it's not as bad. Do I have to take ALL the varnish down to bare wood, or can I feather the edges of the bare spots, give a light sand to the rest of the floor, and then varnish? I suppose it all matters as to my expectations? I am not looking for perfection; I want it to look nice and protect the floor. Also, recommendations on varnish for floorboards and sandpaper grits? Something like a range from 100 to 220 seems like it would be fit the bill?

[SF Bay Dude]

Also, I've been testing the Kiwi Grip here and there. Here are the initial observations I've made:

Dirt… I don't really think it's that big of a deal. Any textured surface is going to collect dirt. Scrub it down. If it builds to a point where you can't stand it anymore, rent a power washer and it will look almost new.

Grip - This stuff is great when it's warm and dry. Bare feet, shoes, sandals… it's almost sticky. But man, when I wet it down, I feel like I am sliding on ice, no matter what I've got on my feet. Boo… sorta bummed on this one. I thought I had a magic bullet.

I guess I'll be doing a test patch of one part + grip aggregate. I used it on my last boat, so it's a known entity. Still will be nice to compare side by side.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by SF Bay Dude

Time is rapidly marching by, and I am still squirreling way parts and tools for the trip south. But I have another project that's on the list. Varnish. Thank goodness she doesn't have any wood above except for her rub-rail (which is greyed and unvarnished) - everything fiberglass, stainless, or aluminum. The floors down below are another beast though.

I've searched for interior varnish projects, but didn't find what I was looking for.

I'm sure I won't have time, but if somehow do (or for down the road), I want to start thinking about sanding/varnishing the interior floor. There are a few spots where it's worn, and other places where it's not as bad. Do I have to take ALL the varnish down to bare wood, or can I feather the edges of the bare spots, give a light sand to the rest of the floor, and then varnish? I suppose it all matters as to my expectations? I am not looking for perfection; I want it to look nice and protect the floor. Also, recommendations on varnish for floorboards and sandpaper grits? Something like a range from 100 to 220 seems like it would be fit the bill?

Feather the bare areas in, then coat just those spots until it matches the # of coats in the rest of your finish. Then prep and coat the whole sole with a couple of coats. This is called patching varnish. It won't look as good as if you wooded it out, but it'll be good enough. Hope it's not stained.

[SF Bay Dude]

Thanks for the advice Minaret.

[SF Bay Dude]

Anybody have preference on sanding discs? I've got a 6" RO Bosch Sander. Brand name always seem to be better quality. I've never used Mirka, but found a Mirka 50 pack of 60 grit for $28, and Bosch sells their 60 grit 25 pack for $18, both on Amazon. Anyone with Mirka experience?

[minaret]

Originally Posted by SF Bay Dude

Anybody have preference on sanding discs? I've got a 6" RO Bosch Sander. Brand name always seem to be better quality. I've never used Mirka, but found a Mirka 50 pack of 60 grit for $28, and Bosch sells their 60 grit 25 pack for $18, both on Amazon. Anyone with Mirka experience?

Mirka is great. Only way to get much better is if you shell out for Abranet. Some jobs are worth using high end grit on, others aren't.