Sorry, I'm back looking for shortcuts -hatch removal

[CrispyCringle]

I had the same type Lewmar hatch. It was glued down way to well. I used plastic auto body shims and flat head drivers to keep it raised as I worked around the hatch with a razor knife. Definitly helps to keep it pried up so the blade can move freely. It was helpful sometimes to pull the blade out of handle and use vise grips to hold the blade so as to allow the blade to curve under the edge of the frame. After three sides were free I could pry the hatch up.

I wouldn't use any power tools unless you dont mind gouging the gelcoat. Although there is a type of blade for use with oscillating tool that has no teeth, just kind of a blade edge and curved face. I think its made for getting under laminate layers of flooring. That may work okay if you get in a pinch.

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[skipperpete]

I just removed 2 small Lewmar opening ports, both with broke lenses, both installed with generous amounts of 5200. It took hours, and about six bread and butter knives, a serrated steak knife, a Stanley knife and a carton knife. Once a small gap was created between the frame and the coach house it was simply a matter of systematically increasing the gap and severing the 5200 with the carton knife and moving the thin wedges (table knives) to the next section. Slicing the squeeze from the inside gap really speeded up the process and it’s a happy moment when the frame finally releases and rises from the cutout. Not using 5200 to reinstall, probably fixtech. It’s very difficult to DIY these lenses, the hinges and latches are glued to the lenses with some sort of amazing adhesive so The old lens would need to be routered out to the glue line without damaging the fixings and the new blank would have to be routered to match the cutouts and reliefs of the original lenses.

[DLincoln3]

I removed and rebedded every hatch in my boat. I used a product called DeBond Marine Formula. Spray it around the hatch frame, and after about 10 mins it starts to loosen the adhesion of the sealant so you can more easily work a utility knife and screwdriver under the frame. I got it down to where it only takes about 15 minutes or so to remove a hatch (10 minutes of which is just waiting for the DeBond to do its thing). The spray is also helpful for removing all of the old sealant from the deck and the frame. I cleaned everything up with some acetone afterward, and everything was ready to be rebedded.

[sailcrazy]

following...we have one of our opening hatches that has never sealed properly. Every time we hit a headsea, and take some greenwater over the bow, we get water below....even though the hatch locks are both down tight. We're guessing the hatch is sprung, or not square, and the only fix is to remove it and either reinstall or replace.

[gulfislandfred]

Heat will soften 5200 and other urethane bedding compounds. A hair dryer is enough. A heat gun works better.


Be careful not to scorch the fiberglass. Heat the aluminum. Keep a bucket of water handy.

[sinnerman]

Originally Posted by Dave_S

I've got 12 of these hatches and I want to remove and refit them all. It's slow going, I'm cutting out the adhesive from underneath and cutting under the top flange as best as I can, there isn't always enough room for a Stanley blade.

Try heating the frame carefully with a heat gun.

The heat gun is your friend.

Most adhesives soften with heat. Even the devil's glue 3M5200.

My two cents

cheers

[Dave_S]

Originally Posted by DLincoln3

I removed and rebedded every hatch in my boat. I used a product called DeBond Marine Formula. Spray it around the hatch frame, and after about 10 mins it starts to loosen the adhesion of the sealant so you can more easily work a utility knife and screwdriver under the frame. I got it down to where it only takes about 15 minutes or so to remove a hatch (10 minutes of which is just waiting for the DeBond to do its thing). The spray is also helpful for removing all of the old sealant from the deck and the frame. I cleaned everything up with some acetone afterward, and everything was ready to be rebedded.

I wish I saw this earlier 🙂

I have them out now, we got it down to about a half hour by sharpening a 2 inch putty knife and hammering it in all around as we apply light pressure with a screwdriver.

Thanks everyone