Storing varnish brushes between coats without cleaning

[roverhi]

I use a tall narrow glass jar with a screw on metal lid. Cut a hole in the lid just large enough to slip the handle through, drill a hole in the brush handle and use a nail to support the brush just off the bottom of the jar. Fill the jar with paint thiner/mineral spirits to cover the bristles of the brush. Works for a few days but not long term as varnish will eventually congeal and need a thorough cleaning of the brush.

Have tried Saran Wrap but it hasn't worked well for more than a day, if that.

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by Wotname

She'll get over it....one day!

Mmmmm, don't count on it.

My wife regularly brings up one of my screw-ups, from when we were first married over 40 years ago... and I've been dead 3 years!

[rmlarson1098]

Originally Posted by jimp1234

Up to know I've been using disposable foam brushes for varnishing bright work, but I'm wanting to try regular good quality brushes, especially for the final coats. I'd obviously have to clean brushes between coats, however I've read that some people have avoided the cleaning step by storing the brushes wet in plastic bags, putting them in the refrigerator, etc. Any recommendations on storing brushes between coats without cleaning that have actually worked for you?


Thanx

We use plastic/Saran wrap or similar, and wrap them tightly for short periods of time - like a lunch break, or a trip to the paint store.
That said, 'The Admiral' was a professional painter, has had the same 5 or 6 (made in USA) paint brushes for decades, and wouldn't think of storing them without them being spotlessly clean - bristles and wooden handles.
I have my own brushes, as on the rare occasions when I'm deemed fit to use hers, the inspection process after cleaning is just too rigorous!
We also store our rollers for short periods, using bigger plastic bags and painters tape to seal the roller into the bag, still on the handle.

[Sailshabby]

Originally Posted by bstreep

I've always placed them in the freezer. Good for a few days. But like others, I generally use a foam disposable.

+1 Zip-loc in the freezer.

[grogport]

The idea is to exclude air. Plastic bags or putting in water achieves the same effect. Personally I wrap in cling film because that excludes more air than a bag.
You can do this after each coat, but don't try for more than 24hours otherwise the brush will start to deteriorate.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by jimp1234

Up to know I've been using disposable foam brushes for varnishing bright work, but I'm wanting to try regular good quality brushes, especially for the final coats. I'd obviously have to clean brushes between coats, however I've read that some people have avoided the cleaning step by storing the brushes wet in plastic bags, putting them in the refrigerator, etc. Any recommendations on storing brushes between coats without cleaning that have actually worked for you?


Thanx

Freezer. Yes this will hold them for a few days. It works for two part paint and epoxy too. Left over mixed resins may hold for weeks.

I buy the crappy throw away brushes by the hundred count box at Harbor Freight. They really are junk but you can make a decent enough brush by first trimming the clean brush’s uneven tip with sharp scissors. Greatly improves the tool and any loose bristle is immediately seen so you can pick it out. Use these also for mixing and applying epoxy.

Cleaning brushes while live aboard in the Caribbean would be nuts. I don’t even clean them at home anymore except water based.

[StuartWeibel]

Jar with plastic screw top; drill a hole that approximates the diameter of the brush handle, and fill partway with xylol. Brush spinner and a 5 gal bucket before use.
Replace xylol as often as you feel you need to. I have kepot a brush working well for weeks in this manner.

At the end of your job, clean thoroughly, wrap in paper, good for next year.

works well for varnish (le Tonkinois in my case) and Brightsides.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by StuartWeibel

Jar with plastic screw top; drill a hole that approximates the diameter of the brush handle, and fill partway with xylol. Brush spinner and a 5 gal bucket before use.
Replace xylol as often as you feel you need to. I have kepot a brush working well for weeks in this manner.

At the end of your job, clean thoroughly, wrap in paper, good for next year.

works well for varnish (le Tonkinois in my case) and Brightsides.

Not meant to sound mean but -

Yup, that’s what I want on board. Pales of old brushes and toxic flammable hydrocarbons. Cost of a quart of solvent in the Caribbean will buy several brushes. I must consider where to store anything. A five gallon brush spinner is not even close to making that list let alone single use chemicals. Disposal? Pardon me while I guffaw. Hahahahahahahaha. You’d have to be a dock queen in a first world country to mess with this.

[Flagfish]

Originally Posted by boden36

Be careful about using the freezer - I put some 2 pack brushes in there and even though they were wrapped up it tainted lots of the food. My wife reminds me every now and then, after 35 years!

Most archaeologists are women due to a strong natural ability to dig up the past.

[SuW]

Originally Posted by Flagfish

Most archaeologists are women due to a strong natural ability to dig up the past.

Oh, so funny.

Gentlemen (of a certain age), start your engines!

[SuW]

Originally Posted by roverhi

I use a tall narrow glass jar with a screw on metal lid. Cut a hole in the lid just large enough to slip the handle through, drill a hole in the brush handle and use a nail to support the brush just off the bottom of the jar. Fill the jar with paint thiner/mineral spirits to cover the bristles of the brush. Works for a few days but not long term as varnish will eventually congeal and need a thorough cleaning of the brush.
Have tried Saran Wrap but it hasn't worked well for more than a day, if that.

What he said, but I find that kerosene (paraffin) is as good to keep brushes fresh, soaks off the varnish and doesn't evaporate. Keep the level of kerosene just above the bottom of the brush bristles.

I like these small fan brushes. They seem to be almost indefinitely reusable with care.

[OldManMirage]

I was fortunate to work alongside a master wood crafter. This guy has built all types of wooden boats, runabouts and sail alike. His varnish finishes always came out like glass. I had the opportunity to pick up many tips.

He normally would store brushes in mineral spirits about 2/3 of the way up the bristles.

[Twister]

I use a Brush Mate https://www.ultrimaxstore.com/consum...trade-4.brw205 .

I suppose there is a similar product available in the USA. If not, it would not be difficult to make something similar.

They are ideal on a boat because there is no liquid in the container so accidentally knocking it over would not be a disaster.

The brushes hang on clips inside the container and are surrounded by some kind of powerful solvent vapour which prevents the brushes drying out.

Brushes may be left in the container for months but I clean them at more frequent intervals and immediately if they become contaminated.

For cleaning brushes a brush spinner as recommended by "guyrj33" above makes the job very easy.

[jimbunyard]

Though I spray most of my varnish nowadays, when I do use brushes, I store them between coats in mineral spirits in a plastic peanut butter container with a hole cut in the lid. As for final cleaning, follow advice in post 7, except for the last step which should be a final wash with dish soap and water. Most good brushes come with a reuseable cardboard sleeve, keep them in it when they're not being used. Good brushes properly cared for will last decades, the bristles will even begin to show wear, but they definitely make a difference in the end result...

[Capt Gill]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Well, for years now I've simply placed varnish and paint brushes in a jar of water, deep enough that the bristles are completely submerged. The next day I simply pull it out, make a few brush strokes on newspaper to remove residual water from the outside and commence using it.

Works for bottom paint rollers too...

Jim

+1
I've been doing it that way for decades, learned it from a cabinet maker. (though not for water-based)