Tapered thruhull valves

[soerencarlsen]

Hi all

Can anyone give a hint as how to free stuck bronze Thrue hull tapered valves ?

Soren

[SSgtPitt]

There's a ton of info on this if you do a custom google search. I did it a couple weeks ago to make sure i was wasn't doing something wrong.

If you have Spartan valves, there’s two nuts holding the cone in. Their names are Blood and Skin.
Loosen the first one three or four full turns and loosen the second a couple of turns. Whack the shaft to drive the cone out a little bit and you should be able to turn the handle now. It’s probably going to leak at this point so work the handle back and forth and slowly tighten the nuts back up.
I’m getting ready to pull my cones completely out and use the Spartan lapping compund and grease on them.

[Sailmonkey]

Easy, loosen the nut opposite the handle and give a tap with a hammer. Use a block of wood between the valve and the hammer. Do not remove the nut, only loosen it so the plug can move but not come out.

[SSgtPitt]

Yes, tapping is better than whacking.

[HopCar]

Here you go. Everything you need to know about tapered cone seacocks.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-ta...cone-seacocks/

[TreblePlink]

I just did this yesterday. Mine was STUCK.

Access was poor behind companionway stairs. After removing locknut and main nut, valve would neither turn with a wrench nor tap out.

So I got a bigger hammer, and held a small anvil against the body, and really whumped on it. No movement. I was afraid if I used more force I would crack the surrounding fiberglass.

I placed a three-hook gear puller on it, but there was not enough cylinder body for the hooks to grab.

So I fabricated an aluminum ring (on a lathe) that had a hole the size of the core, but a lip which was smaller than the valve body diameter.

Fitted that up to the valve, and the puller hooks now had something to grab.

Three turns of the puller screw and the core popped out. Didn't look like the tapered cone area had any lube whatsoever. I'm now polishing the cone and the cylinder, and will lap them together with fine valve grinding compound.

Chris

[soerencarlsen]

Thank you very much, have tryed the method explaned, will try with a bigger hammer tomorrow.

Soren

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Easy, loosen the nut opposite the handle and give a tap with a hammer. Use a block of wood between the valve and the hammer. Do not remove the nut, only loosen it so the plug can move but not come out.

^^^ this
And by the way, if you clean and lube them with lanolin no lapping required and they will never freeze up. They will turn a bit slow in cold water though.

[TreblePlink]

Originally Posted by soerencarlsen

Thank you very much, have tryed the method explaned, will try with a bigger hammer tomorrow.

Soren

Just remember to hold a HEAVY steel object against the valve body from the opposite side while whumping. Not pressing against the core. This reduces stress on the mounting. Don't crack the fiberglass.