Tayana 37 Bowsprit (Repair or Replace)

[Bowdrie]

^ The above post by TrentePieds is good advice.
I would only add to take it easy with the clamps.
Epoxy is a mechanical bond, it's not like Resorcinol, epoxy requires a little space.
You're not tightening up lug-nuts on a 10-wheeler, or head bolts on a diesel.
Trying to get a "Zero glue line" is counterproductive to joint strength.

[Montanan]

If in Cyprus consider using native Cyprus tree wood.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/artic...-cypress-wood/

[TrentePieds]

Bingo, Bowdrie! :-)

I was contemplating launching into a treatise on resorcinol v. epoxy but decided I had probably already tried people's patience :-)! You need the clamps cos "monkey snot" is slithery. But there are other ways if you are a tolerably good woodworker :-)

But iss a puzzlement, Bowdrie: I thot you wuz a lawyer :-)?

Montanan is probably jesting.

CyprESS is an American species of softwood, available on the east coast, but not commonly available here on the "wet" coast because we have so many superior species of softwood. I would think that in CyprUS, cyprESS may be got with as much ease as you can get unobtanium for the gammoning ;-)!

TP

[Fortytwo]

On boats with bowsprits the most common cause of rig failure is failure of the bobstay, and the most common failure point of a bobstay is at the stem fitting.

How do you know this?

No matter whether a swedge or a Sta-lok is used, having such fittings/termination constantly immersed in salt water is not condusive to a long life.
A simple force diagram will show that the bobstay is the most heavily loaded part of the rigging due to its acute angle, it carries much more load than the jibstay.

True, but all steel immersed in salt water is not conducive to a long life.

Chain eliminates any mechanically applied terminations and can easily be inspected and replaced if necessary.

Not sure what you are talking about here…

Chain also has a bit of elasticity that wire lacks, it will absorb some shock loading, wire just transfers the shock into the swedge/Sta-loc fittings.

I would like to understand more about chains “elasticity”.

Chain has another factor, one that has a potentially life saving feature. There have been reports of people dying alongside their boat because they had no way to climb back aboard.

There are better ways to plan to get back on board.

It's extremely difficult, if not almost impossible to hold on to, or climb up a piece of wire to get back aboard, add some hypothermia and it is impossible. Chain offers a grip, you can grasp it and save yourself.

If you are relying on your bobstay to save your life, then you are already dead. Name one time someone climbed up their chain bobstay…

Chain offers a good "tiedown" point when needed, (like for a dinghy).

Your bobstay is not a tie down point.

Oh, and if the whisker stays are also chain you now have the perfect arrangement for rigging some netting.

Nope.

Last, but perhaps not least, chain looks cool.

Ok… there is one point.

I apologize I’m not good at the quote thing on the forum, but my responses are after your paragraphs.

[Fortytwo]

I really need to figure out how to respond to a post so it doesn’t look like I’m talking to myself…

[TrentePieds]

The easy way, rather than fight with the "quote" feature of our programme, is just to start with "Joe Bloggins said in post #XX that:"

Then you cut and paste in the regular way whatever it was that Joe said, putting his comment in quotation marks so it now looks like this:
------------------
Joe Bloggins said in post #XX that: "port is green, starboard is red"
------------------

Then you answer him using a new paragraph so now it looks like this:
-----------------
Joe Bloggins said in post #XX that: "port is green, starboard is red"

No Joe! You got is bassackwards! Port is red, starboard is green!
-----------------

Now Bob's yer uncle :-)

Cheers!

TrentePieds

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by Fortytwo

On boats with bowsprits the most common cause of rig failure is failure of the bobstay, and the most common failure point of a bobstay is at the stem fitting.

How do you know this?

No matter whether a swedge or a Sta-lok is used, having such fittings/termination constantly immersed in salt water is not condusive to a long life.
A simple force diagram will show that the bobstay is the most heavily loaded part of the rigging due to its acute angle, it carries much more load than the jibstay.

True, but all steel immersed in salt water is not conducive to a long life.

Chain eliminates any mechanically applied terminations and can easily be inspected and replaced if necessary.

Not sure what you are talking about here…

Chain also has a bit of elasticity that wire lacks, it will absorb some shock loading, wire just transfers the shock into the swedge/Sta-loc fittings.

I would like to understand more about chains “elasticity”.

Chain has another factor, one that has a potentially life saving feature. There have been reports of people dying alongside their boat because they had no way to climb back aboard.

There are better ways to plan to get back on board.

It's extremely difficult, if not almost impossible to hold on to, or climb up a piece of wire to get back aboard, add some hypothermia and it is impossible. Chain offers a grip, you can grasp it and save yourself.

If you are relying on your bobstay to save your life, then you are already dead. Name one time someone climbed up their chain bobstay…

Chain offers a good "tiedown" point when needed, (like for a dinghy).

Your bobstay is not a tie down point.

Oh, and if the whisker stays are also chain you now have the perfect arrangement for rigging some netting.

Nope.

Last, but perhaps not least, chain looks cool.

Ok… there is one point.

I apologize I’m not good at the quote thing on the forum, but my responses are after your paragraphs.

Don't be obtuse, and don't "read into" things I didn't say.
When you've spent over 65 years studying boats and over 50 years working on them you tend to learn a lot of things that aren't necessarily taught in "yachting" books.
Stuff that comes from listening to, and working with "old timers", things that come from "doing", and things that only experience can bring.
I suppose you've never used a dinghy as a work platform at the bow?
A shackle in a chain bobstay is useful for all sorts of things.
If you don't know anything about elasticity in chain, you should do some research.
Why don't you jump into cold water and try to pull yourself up a wire bobstay.
Netting? if you can't recognize how well chain and netting go together you need some learning.
You can't understand the difference between a mechanical termination and a chain link regarding potential failure points?

[skipperpete]

Judging by photo #6, that looks like shattered timber in the vicinity of the bent rigging screw. I find it difficult to believe that the inboard end of the bowsprit hasn’t damaged the structure supporting it..... and then there’s the masthead, how’s that looking? And the backstay? It must have been a helluva blow to pitch her enough to continuously hit the dock.

[neilpride]

Good observation! has the backstay and forestay suffered? It looks like old rigging, and I always marvel at how people install the furler on complicated bows.

[Spindrift NH]

Lots of good discussion here but, if you go to the Bob Perry fb page you will get info from people that have replaced the sprit on their t37s and Bob himself is likely chime in.

[Mickeyrouse]

Originally Posted by TrentePieds

Shaping the transition from square to octagonal section can be done with care using a wide, really sharp chisel.

Bonne chance!

TrentePieds

Or an equally-sharp spoke shave or draw knife, working in the same direction as you would with a chisel.

[TrentePieds]

Quite so :-)

A drawknife would be better than a chisel but is far less likely to be in a yottie's tool kit than is a chisel. I have not seen drawknives in hardware stores for years and years, but they can be got off the internet for a modest sum.

TP

[TrentePieds]

Here is a link to rather a good video that should warn the OP against undertaking the making of a bowsprit as a DIY job unless he is a VERY good woodworker and has a VERY good tool kit :-)

https://www.google.com/search?q=make...id:OAwWTmDH7k4

First thing to do in situations like the OP's is obviously to make an insurance claim and let the professionals handle the repair. No harm in paying a few hundred for your own surveyor to verify the conclusions of the underwriter's adjuster :-)

TP

[Jim Cate]

I know that this will ruffle some feathers, but one could consider going to a metal sprit. Accessing the right timber and a skilled woodworker is possibly more difficult than changing the design and finding a welder. And a metal sprit could well be stronger than the original design and less prone to decay issues.

Jim

[Icarus]

Originally Posted by Rayfield

Hi All



My Tayana 37 unfortunately after a storm my Bowsprit hit the marines walk way and damaging it.



My question is can this be fixed after reviewing the images. If this can be repaired what is the best way so to keep the strength.

If I need to replace this what is the best wood to use and process? I've seen a few You tube videos but I'm not doing the work the yard will be but I would like the knowledge so I know what they will do.



I've attached 6 images so hopefully they show

Thanks In advance



Ray

You need to replace the bowsprit and stays.