Teach me about Zincs

[epiic]

I don't use zinc anodes, I use aluminum in saltwater.

Apparently its better (more effective) but that also means that it disappears a little quicker...

It's also recommended to use magnesium anodes in freshwater.

[SaltyMetals]

Come on guys. if he can't spell zinc correctly he will think that mention of things like "cathodic protection" is rocket science. What CourageousMe has not said is whether his boat has any metal at all in the water. If he does then maybe Al would be better than Zn.

[Sunsetrider]

Clique-y are some responses to a normal request for advice. Sheesh.

Many would appreciate info on moving from fresh to salt and how that might impact "zinc" choices.

[lfalco]

Well, we are all here to help and learn. I love the camaraderie and helpfulness of all, but, please might have been nice.

[CourageousME]

I'm in maine yes we speak funny here plus English is my third language! Not trying to be rude as you say. Just looking to learn. THaNK YOU ALL

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by CourageousME

I'm in maine yes we speak funny here plus English is my third language! Not trying to be rude as you say. Just looking to learn. THaNK YOU ALL

So, why do you not give us the info (mentioned in my first post0 that we need to give you meaningful help?

So far all you have received are generalities. Until we know more, that's all you will get.

Jim

[CourageousME]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

First lesson: it's spelled "zincs"!


It would hep if you told us what kind of boat, what hulll material, does it have an inboard engine, if so what material is the shaft and the prop?

All those factors will contribute to the need for anodic protection.

Jim

Guess I was a page behind Jim. This is a NAvy44 (McCurdy/Rhoads) with an onboard Volvo engine. I don't know what material the shaft is but I'll have to find out. Prop is self feathering brass prop I believe.

[SaltyMetals]

In that case I would suggest Al anodes. They are better than Zn and will last about 2x longer. If it were to be freshwater that is something different and it would need to be Mg anodes but you said salt water so go for Al anodes. One on the shaft and one on the boss of the prop. MG Duff is a reliable product but not sure what you have in the US.

Don't get a cheap alternative because the fixing onto the shaft needs to be with an internal bracket which is cast into the anode. If you get a cheapie it will probably not have the internal bracket and will fall off rather quickly after some of the metal has been eaten away. In Europe they cost about USD 30 each. Both the shaft anode and the prop boss anode.

[Djarraluda]

Originally Posted by guyrj33

They speak english in Maine, granted it's a funny sounding dialect but it's still english. :>)

To maintain the flippancy for a moment, some people question if anyone speaks English in USA, but never let grammar integer with a quest for information.
I am multilingual myself, I speak English, Australian and American, plus a smattering of Canadian. Not certain if I can claim fluency in them, but.....

Every metal part in the water needs to see an anode if it is to maintain protection. This may take 2 or 3 anodes.
Zinc for salt water
Magnesium for fresh water

Replace them when they rot to only 2/3 original size, that way you maintain protection and they never fall off.
Roger

[SaltyMetals]

By the way, one final point if you choose Al anodes for shaft and prop make sure they are both Al. Do not mix Al for one and Zn for the other. If you have trouble finding the anodes made in Al then use Zn for both. I find that mine last about one season but you can dive down and check after a few months. As one of the others already mentioned, replace them when about 50% used..

[Maka]

Latest Wisdom is use Aluminum in Fresh AND Salt water for cathodic protection.