Teak Deck integrity?

[casual]

Going thru a dilemma. I have teak decks that need to be caulked. I am told after drilling blind holes from the inside and moister meeter test that my coring appears ok. The teak is in decent shape I did an area appx. 2x2 feet cleaning and sanding the seams then caulking the seams letting dry and sanding. This all took a total of 4 hours I'm old and it was a PITA. Doing some quick math tells me I need appx 160 total hours to complete this project plus the ongoing upkeep. I have a quote to remove the teak recore if necessary refinish the decks with Algrip nonskid. This whole deal will cost about 1300.00 more than what I would have to spend in material and do the refinishing my self. My dilemma will removing the teak weaken the decks? Anybody that has done the same were you satisfied with the end results? If bad coring is found does cutting away the top glass comprise the strength of the boat? Thanks for all input.

[zeehag]

mine had been redone before i bought this boat. i would rather have the teak decks as this fg stuff is slick even with non skid. teak is a lot better as nonskid.

when the fg was done on these decks they built it up more than i have seen--it is strong. even if my 1/4 in ply core were found to be soft it is still strong and without give. they didnt do that with my bow deck, however--that is strong only in strategic places

[Cheechako]

The decks after removing the teak on my HC 38 seemed solid. But those boats are way overbuilt. It seems to me that recaulking your decks should be way cheaper than removing & painting etc.....?

[rebel heart]

What's the surface under the teak?

[casual]

Thanks guy's I have a Cabo Rico 38 and from what I have seen it looks as though the glass is 7/16 or so thick then teak on top had a 250 lb friend jump up and down on it seemed solid .

[casual]

Rebel Heart. Fiberglass then balsa coring followed by a molded liner.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by casual

Going thru a dilemma. I have teak decks that need to be caulked. I am told after drilling blind holes from the inside and moister meeter test that my coring appears ok. The teak is in decent shape I did an area appx. 2x2 feet cleaning and sanding the seams then caulking the seams letting dry and sanding. This all took a total of 4 hours I'm old and it was a PITA. Doing some quick math tells me I need appx 160 total hours to complete this project plus the ongoing upkeep. I have a quote to remove the teak recore if necessary refinish the decks with Algrip nonskid. This whole deal will cost about 1300.00 more than what I would have to spend in material and do the refinishing my self. My dilemma will removing the teak weaken the decks? Anybody that has done the same were you satisfied with the end results? If bad coring is found does cutting away the top glass comprise the strength of the boat? Thanks for all input.

Jump on that, it's a great deal if its actually well done. Strength shouldn't be an issue, usually a layer or two of glass is put on anyway to glass up all the screw holes. Should actually come out stronger and lighter, and your balsa core will probably live longer too. Plus teak sucks, too hot and too much maintenance. If your painters use Awlgrip, they probably do skid in Griptex, which blows teak out of the water in every category but looks (depending on personal taste).

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by casual

Going thru a dilemma. I have teak decks that need to be caulked. I am told after drilling blind holes from the inside and moister meeter test that my coring appears ok. The teak is in decent shape I did an area appx. 2x2 feet cleaning and sanding the seams then caulking the seams letting dry and sanding. This all took a total of 4 hours I'm old and it was a PITA. Doing some quick math tells me I need appx 160 total hours to complete this project plus the ongoing upkeep. I have a quote to remove the teak recore if necessary refinish the decks with Algrip nonskid. This whole deal will cost about 1300.00 more than what I would have to spend in material and do the refinishing my self. My dilemma will removing the teak weaken the decks? Anybody that has done the same were you satisfied with the end results? If bad coring is found does cutting away the top glass comprise the strength of the boat? Thanks for all input.

That's actually a pretty good deal. I did a Peterson 44. 2 Guys removing bungs and screw in one weekend, removal of teak the next weekend and prepping the next weekend. We chamfered to holes and filled with a mixture of epoxy/millfibers and cabosil. Sanded and stipple rolled Awlgrip mixed with cabosil for non-skid.

Originally Posted by zeehag

mine had been redone before i bought this boat. i would rather have the teak decks as this fg stuff is slick even with non skid. teak is a lot better as nonskid.

You have the wrong non-skid me thinks.