Teak - Epoxy and then Varnish

[Oeanda]

Is the teak actually starting to go at all? I’m just curious. Our boat is over 40 years old and the teak is pretty much the one really enduring thing on it, apart from the fibreglass hull. In certain spots the grey surface can get a bit fluffy and shabby looking over time but that is easily buffed up to a nice smooth silver. Almost everything else on this boat has been tortured to death and replaced over the years, but I’ve never yet found a single spot of teak that is starting to truly decay.

Not that I’m questioning your intent. I admire anyone who has the superhuman powers to keep a boat all varnished up. But once I started- where would I stop?

[AJ_n_Audrey]

Originally Posted by Oeanda

Is the teak actually starting to go at all? I’m just curious. Our boat is over 40 years old and the teak is pretty much the one really enduring thing on it, apart from the fibreglass hull. In certain spots the grey surface can get a bit fluffy and shabby looking over time but that is easily buffed up to a nice smooth silver. Almost everything else on this boat has been tortured to death and replaced over the years, but I’ve never yet found a single spot of teak that is starting to truly decay.

Not that I’m questioning your intent. I admire anyone who has the superhuman powers to keep a boat all varnished up. But once I started- where would I stop?

Oeanda, your comment has given me pause. Not that I am very self-aware, as my wife will attest, but come to think of it, I do tend to set myself tasks that are not always completely necessary (otherwise, why would I have a sailboat?). So I'll go back to first principles and think about whether I really want to do this. I think I do, but I'll consider it for a while.

[GordMay]

You might consider West System “Special Clear” Resin & Hardener, which Includes 105-B and 207-SB Blush Free / Clear Finish, which was developed for coating and fiberglass cloth application where an exceptionally clear, moisture-resistant, natural wood finish is desired.

Blended with 105 Epoxy Resin, 207 Hardener will not blush or turn cloudy in humid conditions. Thin film applications roll out and tip off smoothly, requiring less sanding in preparation for finish coatings.
➥ https://www.westsystem.com/207-special-clear-hardener/

I’ve never used it, but it “reads” well.

[s/v Jedi]

I recommend a different approach:

- use TotalBoat penetrating epoxy on bare, toerail first. Reapply on spots where it is absorbed.

- wash with water and soap, rinse well

- sand back any surface coat so that you have wood fiber at the surface again. This may look like you’re back to square one but when you touch it, it feels like a rock hard surface.

- now build up with coats of premium varnish for UV protection and esthetics. I have tested Epifanes varnish over the epoxy base which works 100% but may probably go for a 2-part varnish from Awlgrip, International or Epifanes (note those are all Dutch companies ) instead.

[Island Time O25]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

I'm no expert, but consider the difference between the old growth teak that was used in boats 42 years ago and the plantation grown stuff that is now the norm. I suspect that there would be significant differences in durability.

We've seen boats where the teak was painted a grey similar to that of aged teak, and it looked pretty good to me.

Jim

Yes, come to think of it I already posted a while back how during a DIY install of a swimming platform we ran out of WM bought SS bolts and had to scrounge up boatyard strewn bolts from 30-40 year old parted out boats. And how a year later most WM bolts had some rust and the old ones were as good as new. Was really an eye opener.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Island Time O25

Yes, come to think of it I already posted a while back how during a DIY install of a swimming platform we ran out of WM bought SS bolts and had to scrounge up boatyard strewn bolts from 30-40 year old parted out boats. And how a year later most WM bolts had some rust and the old ones were as good as new. Was really an eye opener.

In general with bolts and other hardware (from WM or any other store), if they don't specify what grade of stainless they are, I assume they're crappy stainless that won't be entirely rustproof in salt water.

[Rumrace]

Stainless fasteners rusting is a common trend. There are a long list of false approvals from China UL, CE, ULC, ETL, SAE. Fraud is just plain common place.
So the rating claimed on screws and bolts is what we want to hear but no where near the reality. That’s pretty consistent in any metal from them. Carbon specs in T6 aluminum. Mixed conflicting metals in bronze. It’s like floor sweepings to fill the smelter. Low grade SS without oxygen rusts real fast.
I had a geologist with me on a day trip in Georgian Bay. I pointed out all the red rock saying “ iron”. He said nope. The iron is black the red is the stain on the neighbouring rock. Same is true on nice white fibreglass.

[s/v Jedi]

Amazing how we go from epoxy & varnish to old growth teak to stainless steel fasteners!

p.s. the red is iron oxide. Rust from stainless steel is black; when you see “rust” it is from surface contamination.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

... p.s. the red is iron oxide. Rust from stainless steel is black; when you see “rust” it is from surface contamination.

Black Oxide, sometimes called gun bluing, is the act of converting the top layer of a ferrous material, with a chemical treatment [often waxed or oiled], which converts the surface layer into magnetite, which adds a mild layer of corrosion, and abrasion resistance.

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Amazing how we go from epoxy & varnish to old growth teak to stainless steel fasteners!

p.s. the red is iron oxide. Rust from stainless steel is black; when you see “rust” it is from surface contamination.

More misinformation. Stainless has iron in it and will bleed eventually.

“Stainless” steel is actually a generic term referring to a variety of steel types. Like all other kinds of steel, stainless steel is made primarily from iron and carbon in a two-step process. What makes stainless steel different is the addition of chromium (Cr) and other alloying elements such as nickel (Ni) to create a corrosion-resistant product."
Especially if initially covered by a bung or something. Other contributing factors are the grade of Stainless...316 vs. 304 vs. 18-8 vs. 17-4. Also the quality of the manufacturing process, like Passivation, which is a mild acid solution to remove iron form the surface of the metal. However, over time, this will only last so long.

[Celestialsailor]

Over the years I gave up on varnish and went to Cetol, "Teak Finish". It lasted longer than varnish and without all the song and dance of epoxy. It's just a toe rail. While I was cruising Mexico, there were a lot of boats that painted. Not my cup of tea but to each their own.

There are a few new "one step" products on the market. One I have seen is Semco. It looks great on the teak and the owner of the boat, it was on, claimed a soap and water wash and recoat once a year.