Teak Plugs - How To....

[mlydon]

I found a good video demonstrating the paring technique. The guy is pairing dowels instead of plugs, but it’s the same motion I was describing earlier.

https://youtu.be/eT_kVEFOwoQ

Matt

[donradcliffe]

As a kid, I was responsible for trimming the plugs off. The test for chisel sharpness was to see if would easily shave the hair off the back of your hand.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

As a kid, I was responsible for trimming the plugs off. The test for chisel sharpness was to see if would easily shave the hair off the back of your hand.

[Flatswing]

Use a flush cut saw (teeth set only to one side) to remove most of the protruding plug then shave remainder with the grain with sharpened chisel (off the shelf chisels only have primary bevel -you may see better results if you add the secondary bevel)

[Happydrv]

Originally Posted by mlydon

I found a good video demonstrating the paring technique. The guy is pairing dowels instead of plugs, but it’s the same motion I was describing earlier.

https://youtu.be/eT_kVEFOwoQ

Matt

EXCELLENTE...!

Thanks Matt.

[Amapola]

We cut them off with our Fein tool and then sand.

[RoseLoper48]

Jamestown Distributors sells plugs, 2 part bung epoxy and a pull saw. I believe they also have free advice.

[Rainbow48]

Happydry, My “Rainbow” is teak on mahogany, 63 ft LOD. Lots of teak plugs. Here’s how we handle them: if the plug is sticking out more than 1/8”, saw first using razor saw, then shave down with very sharp chisel. Less than 1/8”, chisel only. The chisel must be very sharp. If it does not shave your arm hairs, it is not sharp enough. If you need to use any kind of mallet, the chisel is too dull. Push the chisel through the plug as if you were finishing off a wood carving ... because that is what you are doing. Watch the grain of the plug, generally go with the grain, but be careful that the grain is not dipping into the plug. If you have to use sand paper when done, you screwed up.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Rainbow48

Happydry, My “Rainbow” is teak on mahogany, 63 ft LOD. Lots of teak plugs. Here’s how we handle them: if the plug is sticking out more than 1/8”, saw first using razor saw, then shave down with very sharp chisel. Less than 1/8”, chisel only. The chisel must be very sharp. If it does not shave your arm hairs, it is not sharp enough. If you need to use any kind of mallet, the chisel is too dull. Push the chisel through the plug as if you were finishing off a wood carving ... because that is what you are doing. Watch the grain of the plug, generally go with the grain, but be careful that the grain is not dipping into the plug. If you have to use sand paper when done, you screwed up.

Right on!

[CarinaPDX]

My original builder (Cecil Lange) taught me how to put in plugs, and I made and installed all of the (thousands at this point) plugs in Carina, plus again with a refasten of the deck. I found this to work very well:

1) Mix some glue with Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue and water. This is a very water-resistant glue that sets up brittle and can be removed easily. I used it on my teak deck and only rarely needed to replace a plug.

2) Put the glue in a shallow tin, like a tuna fish can, to maybe 1/4".

3) Dip the plug into the glue, then wipe off any glue on the bottom of the plug against the lip of the can. Any glue on the bottom will prevent the plug going in all of the way.

4) Line up the grain of the plug with the panel, push it into the hole, then gently tap it in until it bottoms.

4) Immediately use a sharp, wide chisel to whack off the top of the plug (moving at a good clip, bevel down - don't be delicate), going with the grain. The remaining plug will probably break off with a slope. If it breaks with one side too low, or the plug crumbles because it was pounded too hard, then immediately pry it out with a 1/4" chisel and redo.

5) Clean chisels and mallet with soap and water (another reason for using Weldwood).

6) After drying the plugs can be easily cut off flush with a wide, sharp chisel starting at the low side and cutting to the high side. This way if it does break it will break up, not down, and will not damage the remaining plug.

7) Once the glue sets plugs can be dug out with a chisel, and the glue is easily broken and removed without damage to the surrounding wood.

Greg

[Greg theHijacke]

Originally Posted by Happydrv

Can someone clue me in on how to replace teak plugs on screws?

I redid a few and when I tried to chisel them off flush with a new, sharp chisel one or two did OK the others left some divots in their surface that took a LOT of varnish to smooth out. Was a vertical surface so couldn't just put a drop in the hole.

I was thinking maybe cut them off first and put the cut end inside with smooth end out and just tap enough to flush up with surface?

Other ideas?

Haven't you heard of Sandpaper. Put the plug in with epoxy resin glue, wait till it is set, carefully cut the plug off leaving 1 or 2 mm ( 1/16 inch) upstanding then sand off, or if you are careful you can use that sharp chisel ( which I doubt is very sharp unless you ground and honed it on an oil stone) to pare away the excess in wafer thick passes, then finish with fine sandpaper then refinish with chosen clear-cote.

[mlydon]

Do NOT use epoxy to glue in plugs. You will not be able to remove them if you need to detach the teak you are plugging, usually requiring destruction of the piece.

Just dip the ends in varnish and tap them in - that will hold them, while allowing them to be removed in the future, in case you need to rebed the teak.

Epoxy can also leave a dark ring around the plugs, as the epoxy soaks into the surrounding wood, preventing varnish from doing so....

Matt

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by mlydon

Do NOT use epoxy to glue in plugs. You will not be able to remove them if you need to detach the teak you are plugging, requiring destruction of the piece.

Just dip the ends in varnish and tap them in - that will hold them, while allowing them to be removed in the future, in case you need to rebed the teak.

Epoxy can also leave a dark ring around the plugs, as the epoxy soaks into the surrounding wood, preventing varnish from doing so....

Matt

Matt

Cheaper and quicker too.

[Martin S]

Assuming you are replacing plugs on teak deck. Get good quality plugs.
I read it is better not to align the grain as you will get a better seal, not sure if it is true. The Stanley FatMax flush saw makes trimming the plug flush with the deck very simple and neat. Good luck.

[ibsurfun]

Leave 1/16 to 1/8" nub and sand back to flush. Very few people are good at chiseling a plug most and that includes me don't seem to ne able to get a really clean cut.
Best of luck with your project.