Teak Question for the group.

[Skipper Lee]

I suppose to do nothing is easiest, but then wont I have to build everything again sooner?
How about clear Varathane via spray or brush. i am a good spray bomb painter.
Anyone know if that has/can have any UV protector in it?

[Skipper Lee]

That looks SAWEEET Devalency.
I dont mind the effort so I just internally/emotionally pulled the trigger and will take your advice, get some Varnish and have at it. When is it to cold to varnish? Its close to zero at night now here in my area.
Will post finished pix when completed.
Best regards,
Lee

[Marathon1150]

I am a big fan of Semco (I use "Natural" but there are some tinted versions as well) because I would rather be sailing than constantly varnishing teak. Semco makes teak look like teak, or at least the way that I like teak to look. It is a two step operation the first time around and then one step for subsequent applications. It stands up well, even in the relentless sun of the Sea of Cortez.

Walking through any marina reveals the range of personal preference for what boat teak should look like. From untreated, long exposed teak with a well developed grey patina to the foot deep luminescence of multi-part, multi-layer products that let the grain show through but protect it exceptionally well.

I let somebody talk me into varnishing the deck handrails and the large chunk of teak under the mainsail traveler (the latter was a lovely untreated grey). I now regret having done this because it will rob me of several days of sailing on an annual basis.

I have only ever used Semco on teak lumber - not sure how it will work on plywood.

[George DuBose]

I have had varnish lasting quite a while in the sun, when I coat the wood first with epoxy to create a harder surface and then a UV-filtering varnish to protect the epoxy.

My tiller has 20+ summers in the sun and I haven't had to refinish it.

Today, I might try G-Flex as a first coat, but then I have stopped varnishing anything. I got to like the grey look, matches my hair. ;>)

[Exctyengr]

The teak is gorgeous and it would offend the Gods to paint it. Cheechako mentioned boat cloth and epoxy and that is an excellent suggestion as the cloth and epoxy would both add strength and waterproofing. But.....you still need to varnish because epoxy has little UV protection and will breakdown in sunlight. If it were I, I would either cloth and epoxy or two coats of penetrating epoxy followed by seven coats of marine spar varnish. Epifanes is the gold standard, I prefer Total Boat Gleam or Interlux Schooner. My experience with oiling is that it really attracts dust and dirt that gets into the grain of the wood and, over time, makes it look muddy. That said, others swear by it.

[Lodbrog1]

Hi, looks good. I agree with deVelancy....But before you apply 2 part varnish, thin the epoxy with what ever suits you to seal any end grain; probably 2 coats. Before you apply the 2 part varnish by whomever, wipe down twice the teak to be coated w/ varnish with lacquer thinner to coax out any oils then mix your 2 part let stand for 10 minutes then add MEK 10 % to thin out the varnish and apply and you can hot coat a second coat after completing the array of pieces from the beginning. The MEK is nasty but will penetrate more deeply and kick the varnish to enable the second....also thinned and work quickly. Cure for a couple of days bc it is cold up there and do it again. I have done that with all my teak and a single coat each year perhaps and you are golden. I have no exfoliation or rejection for 15 years on any of my boats since doing this.

[ussvdharma]

Originally Posted by Skipper Lee

I have completed the construction of these sheet boxes, Perhaps only i call them that, and a companionway door as these items were toast when i bought this boat.
I built them from teak Ply and teak lumber and wonder how to ensure a long life by preserving/coating them with what? the boxes are teak ply with teak flanges and the doors are teak ply, 2 layers back to back so i have teak both sides. I did epoxy the door laminates together and epoxied the end grains on everything so far. how and with what should i coat everything for a long lasting result?

,,,,,I HAD A 46' BREWER PANOCEANIC WITH LOTS OF TEAK...FINALLY FOUND THOMPSONS WATER SEAL AT HOME DEPOT. gALLON OF THIS SILICON BASED COATING AROUND $17.00 usd. West marine sells the same thing but under different name for around$60.00 gal. Worked at westmarin as electronics mgr for 6 years....lots of products cheaper at home depot...exactly same. What you need is the silicon based weather seal.

[thunderhoof]

I have tried every recommended shellac /varnish on teak bits over the decades. I had to refinish it every three years when it starts to crack /peel. Teak oil gives a good looking finish but I find it absorbs dirt and grime and has to to be deep cleaned every few years.

I suggest you finish the boxes to match any other teak on the boat and then make some simple snap on covers from Sunbrella. This will protect the finish, darken the interior if you want and protect items in the boxes from weather

[IMACSS]

I am halfway through removing the mission brown house paint that the PO painted my hand rails and gunwale capping on my 1985 Clipper and after much discussion and deliberation I decided to use Feast and Watsons garden furniture oil. I'm calling it a "Teak Oil". Since the initial application (2 weeks ago) I have applied three or four coats and am very impressed with the finish. Anyone doubt me after suffering Mission Brown house paint? [IMG]file:///C:/Users/imac/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]
There is no doubt in my mind that a "good varnish" will look significantly more glossy and classy but my decision was based on the work required to maintain such a finish. FWIW each coat that I applied took me about 15 mins to lightly sand and a further 10 mins to re-coat with an oil-soaked rag. After reading this thread I am hoping that I won't regret my decision. Tried unsuccessfully to attach a small pic of my handrail - Sorry.

[LakeSuperior]

There is a trade between appearance and labor to that must be weighted when messing about with brightwork. Personally, I have weighted the scale toward minimization of my labor and yet trying to maintain OK looking non offensive brightwork.

Anyone maintaining brightwork knows how much work it can really be.


Teak deck - unfinished. Raw teak is a spectacular and best no skid surface.

Teak house - Sikkens. Bad spots can be repaired without stripping the entire house. Normally get about 10 to 15 years up here with touch up and repair. Start with a couple coats.

Sika spruce spars - Zspar Flagship varnish. Highest UV filler content of any varnish. Normally get 5 to 7 years before stripping and re-varnish. Use about 8 to 10 coats. Not an Epifanes finish but...


Epoxy has no UV protection and is tough to strip when the time comes which it will for sure. So what would be the advantage to put it down and then cover it with varnish?

Do not regularly bleach or power wash raw teak as you will destroy it. Also, I chemically strip the old finish. It doesn't take many years for repeated sanding to thin out your teak and/or remove the crisp edges.

After a $10K Epifanes varnish job in the Caribbean we needed touch up in 3 months on our Mason 44. Epifanes looks awesome because the UV inhibitors are minimal IMHO. Flagship will last way longer.

These remarks are based on 40 years of maintaining boats on Lake Superior.

[OS2Dude]

For the boxes I'd have made a mold and built them of fiberglass. They are going to hold (some) water and will delaminate. Try putting in a weep hole on either end as low as possible to help drain the water. I also dumped my drop boards in favor of companionway doors. Cumaru (AKA Brazilian Teak) is surprisingly affordable (Freight was as much as the wood, and the entire total was only 8$88) I'm doing my doors in 100% Tung oil. (Not everything that says it is Tung oil even has any in it, so be careful.)

Plans : Catalina 30 Mk I Doors.pdf

Test Fit:

[gonesail]

nice job. if varnishing it is probably too cold to do it outside now. always turns out better when done indoors .. but obviously not always possible

[Timlich]

International Paints have a product called Everdure. It’s a 2 part sealant that soaks into the wood and effectively ‘plasticises’ the wood (though not in a visible way’ without changing colour. Much more durable than varnish, finishes clear and because the wood absorbs it there will be no decay and will require very little future maintenance. Not that you want to but it can also be painted over so excellent for ply. I have teak detailing around my companionway, hatch surrounds and covers etc (areas where moisture can collect or require extra hard wearing protection) that have taken this product really well. It may slightly darken the teak colouring depending on its original colour. This will be perfect for the interior of your boxes and edges and if you’re extra keen on oiling you can oil the outside rim. It will be hard to distinguish between the 2 finishes once you’re done!

[DeValency]

Originally Posted by Timlich

International Paints have a product called Everdure. It’s a 2 part sealant that soaks into the wood and effectively ‘plasticises’ the wood (though not in a visible way’ without changing colour. Much more durable than varnish, finishes clear and because the wood absorbs it there will be no decay and will require very little future maintenance. Not that you want to but it can also be painted over so excellent for ply. I have teak detailing around my companionway, hatch surrounds and covers etc (areas where moisture can collect or require extra hard wearing protection) that have taken this product really well. It may slightly darken the teak colouring depending on its original colour. This will be perfect for the interior of your boxes and edges and if you’re extra keen on oiling you can oil the outside rim. It will be hard to distinguish between the 2 finishes once you’re done!

Thanks, - Wow! Sounds like magic I was looking for... I'm trying to preserve an old teak deck that still looks good, when kept cleaned and sealed, but a sealer alone doesn't last for more than 6-8 months and doesn't really keep the teak from weather effects (slow...) disintegration.

Wonder if anyone used it on a teak deck?.

Have a large piece of another boat's removed teak deck that I use for my experiments will give it a try and let the group know...

[LittleWing77]

Just wanted to say SO gorgeous, Lee!

Beautiful work.
Warmly (and enviously),
LittleWing