Teak Question for the group.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Timlich

International Paints have a product called Everdure. It’s a 2 part sealant that soaks into the wood and effectively ‘plasticises’ the wood (though not in a visible way’ without changing colour. Much more durable than varnish, finishes clear and because the wood absorbs it there will be no decay and will require very little future maintenance. Not that you want to but it can also be painted over so excellent for ply. I have teak detailing around my companionway, hatch surrounds and covers etc (areas where moisture can collect or require extra hard wearing protection) that have taken this product really well. It may slightly darken the teak colouring depending on its original colour. This will be perfect for the interior of your boxes and edges and if you’re extra keen on oiling you can oil the outside rim. It will be hard to distinguish between the 2 finishes once you’re done!

Just be aware that everdure is an epoxy and as such is susceptible to UV degradation. It needs to be overcoated with a durable finish.

[DeValency]

Originally Posted by DeValency

Thanks, - Wow! Sounds like magic I was looking for... I'm trying to preserve an old teak deck that still looks good, when kept cleaned and sealed, but a sealer alone doesn't last for more than 6-8 months and doesn't really keep the teak from weather effects (slow...) disintegration.

Wonder if anyone used it on a teak deck?.

Have a large piece of another boat's removed teak deck that I use for my experiments will give it a try and let the group know...

After a search and call to Interlux, unfortunately this product isn’t sold in the US. However, as it looks, it may be somewhat similar to high penetration low viscosity wood epoxy sealer/primer. While my deck looks good, it is aging, quite dry and and a little rough, so may not be slippery at any case - I will not sand it! However, anyone ever tried high penetration epoxy on an old teak deck?

[Rucksta]

Originally Posted by DeValency

anyone ever tried high penetration epoxy on an old teak deck?

I have.
Lipstick on a pig.

The degraded teak looked like it needed some work.
The finished product looked like a teak deck in need of replacement.
It offered less grip and increased below decks temperature by a few degrees.

After sanding, grain sealing and caulking I applied a viscosity modified (low) 100% solids (no thinners) non yellowing UV stabilsed epoxy.

The grain filling helped achieve a more even surface with a more even penetration of the resin.

Some areas of the teak were still more porous producing an encapsulated uneven finish accentuating the remaining defects.

Additional coats acted like varnish creating a lens to reveal the variations of grain.

The worst areas showed where the planks met the trim - coach house, king plank, lockers etc.


Eventual remedy was replace teak.

[sailorman14]

This topic has been discussed a million times on this site.
But the answer to the question is HONEY TEAK. It will last even in direct sunlight for years and is beautiful.
I quit using all varnish products over 20 years ago because the sun just eats it up.
I refinish boats for a living and wouldn’t use anything else.

[Skipper Lee]

Lots of replies here, Thanks for each of them. I always appreciate others advice. I suppose it has been discussed a million times before but still interests folks because there are a million answers and millions of cats still needing skinning!
I was hoping for one common or clear answer but when there appears to be no clear answer I just do something.
I needed to get these doors on to keep some heat inside the boat as it snowed here already and the boat is now tarped.
What I did after all the edges were well soaked with 3 coats of epoxy was bring the doors inside my office and sprayed them with 3 cans not coats of Varathane Diamond Wood Finish. Its water based, outdoor, non yellowing and says it has Outstanding UV protection and also did not stink up my office at all. The 3 cans adds up to 9 really wet coats so far with 400 grit sanding between the coats and coat after coat absorbed completely into the wood. After about 6 coats it started to build up and stay on the surface and looks really good to me. It probably kind of plasticized the wood by soaking lots in, hope so! I will wait and see how long they last with that treatment but its done and I will live with it. I have been wrong so many times it no longer a big deal for me, I hope for the best and move on....

It eased my mind when it occurred to me before I started the spray job that I have worked on other production boats and like this current one I never found any trace of end grain sealing with epoxy or pretty much any protection to the wood panels. these sheet boxes and Companionway slats did manage to last over 40 years before I got involved and that gets me to 100.
Thanks Little Wing for your opinion, I felt warm for a moment.
Cheers all.
Best regards.

[jsanton]

+1 vote for sikkens cetol.
Your ply end grains are covered by teak so no exposure concerns there.