Teak Question for the group.

[Skipper Lee]

I have completed the construction of these sheet boxes, Perhaps only i call them that, and a companionway door as these items were toast when i bought this boat.
I built them from teak Ply and teak lumber and wonder how to ensure a long life by preserving/coating them with what? the boxes are teak ply with teak flanges and the doors are teak ply, 2 layers back to back so i have teak both sides. I did epoxy the door laminates together and epoxied the end grains on everything so far. how and with what should i coat everything for a long lasting result?

[Skipper Lee]

The boxes dont show it but now have a plexiglass back to allow light into the quarterberth and locker.

[psk125]

Varnish would probably work, and look better than paint.

[Spot]

Originally Posted by Skipper Lee

The boxes dont show it but now have a plexiglass back to allow light into the quarterberth and locker.

That is a great idea!

[Cheechako]

For the entire plywood part I would probably glass it over with "boat cloth" (thin fiberglass) that will let the wood show through a bit.... if that's what you want. Ply in that situation is just not a great thing.

[Orion Jim]

A layer or two of glass and epoxy would make them indestructible.

[barnakiel]

Make sure to get rid of any external epoxy traces. It gets dark over time. Also under varnish and in interiors.


Good work. Looks very lovely.


b.

[Uncle Bob]

The options suggested are all good, but the box will need some form of drainage at the lowest point, water will find its way in there.

[JPA Cate]

They do have drain holes already. I had to expand the picture to see them.

Use the best spar varnish you can find, if that is the kind of look you enjoy. At the very least, 6 coats. Fill the end grains of the plywood with epoxy till it can be smooth, then varnish. You really want the water to stay out of there. I don't know what kind of varnishing schedule you need in Alberta, maybe only once a year.

Enjoy. You've clearly put a lot of effort in there.

Ann

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

They do have drain holes already. I had to expand the picture to see them.

Use the best spar varnish you can find, if that is the kind of look you enjoy. At the very least, 6 coats. Fill the end grains of the plywood with epoxy till it can be smooth, then varnish. You really want the water to stay out of there. I don't know what kind of varnishing schedule you need in Alberta, maybe only once a year.

Enjoy. You've clearly put a lot of effort in there.

Ann

Ann, I stand corrected, shoulda looked more harder.

Also, I really like the perspex idea.

A finnish that can look really good is to lime the timber with an extremely thin paint, allowing the grain to shine through and then finish with a good quality varnish.

[DeValency]

Solid teak can stay for tens of years without coating, just cleaning and you can wipe with some teak oil once a year. You can also coat with two-part varnish - Epifanes is a good one.

The plywood must be sealed. Epoxy is a good idea and also a kind of epoxy varnish by Awl-Grip - fantastic finish!

[Skipper Lee]

Thanks to you all for responding. I tried to come up with something eye pleasing and love the teak look. Although I presumed epoxied and painted or glassed over would last the longest i prefer the wood look. I used epoxy for the assembly of the boxes, door laminates and all end grains and thats where I am stalling now.
I was actually wanting to use teak oil and have no problem keeping everything amply treated as I love the smell and ritual of keeping things in shape.
I suppose I should have just asked if teak oil works ok on teak ply if I keep up with it.

I have little experience with Varnish but thought it flakes off caused by uv damage so would need constant or at least yearly sanding and attention as well so leaned to the teak oil as the maintenance (simply rubbing more on) is more pleasing to me.
In retrospect if these items do not last I will scream internally then build the next set with solid teak then simply oil.

[DeValency]

Originally Posted by Skipper Lee

Thanks to you all for responding. I tried to come up with something eye pleasing and love the teak look. Although I presumed epoxied and painted or glassed over would last the longest i prefer the wood look. I used epoxy for the assembly of the boxes, door laminates and all end grains and thats where I am stalling now.
I was actually wanting to use teak oil and have no problem keeping everything amply treated as I love the smell and ritual of keeping things in shape.
I suppose I should have just asked if teak oil works ok on teak ply if I keep up with it.

I have little experience with Varnish but thought it flakes off caused by uv damage so would need constant or at least yearly sanding and attention as well so leaned to the teak oil as the maintenance (simply rubbing more on) is more pleasing to me.
In retrospect if these items do not last I will scream internally then build the next set with solid teak then simply oil.

I’m all for teak and maintaining it, in spite of the added work. My Contest is all teak over a thick GRP (see the Instagram link below). Teak ply is not 100% teak and the internal parts and glue will not survive the water, sun, humidity etc. just with teak oil. As formerly suggested you can use a two part top level polyurethane based varnish (at least 6 coats) or the Awlgrip Awlwood clear coat (also two part) and get outstanding results if you well prep the wood and closely follow the instructions. https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t-detail/97753
We used Epifanes two part high gloss on the floor boards - that are 20mm teak ply and the results are great. Outside everything is solid teak.

[Skipper Lee]

I also just realized last night that when the lights are on below it produces enough of a pleasing glow through the plexi backs on the boxes to see pretty well in/around the cockpit.

Re the coating, In the end we just makes arrgh choice an den lives widdit.

Next and likely last task for the construction season in Alberta will be installation of the actual marine head and some of the associated gak that just arrived from binacle.ca (my new friend) to replace the nothing at all the boat came with, I am also looking for advice on that as its another new thing for me. I am not lazy though! and accept that the value is in the doing not the selling as with most hobbies this boat will likely top out in value well below my input...

[moseriw]

if it is exposed to the sun do not use any oil, varnish or paint at all. If not best you cover it with transparent paint of almost any kind.