Thru hull ball valve doesn’t shut off water

[Nani Kai]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Hi, I have done the wooden bung in the through hull number and it worked very well for me, no catestrophic failures and the new valve has not leaked, it's been years.

Thanks Bob. Im solo on this maintenance trip and don’t relish the thought of having something go awry topside while I’m underwater tapping away. Would do it if I had to but waiting until haul out seems best choice at the moment.

[skipgundlach]

Rocky's is the place you want in St. Marys. Very popular with cruisers...

[Nani Kai]

Originally Posted by deblen

Your raw water strainer is mounted too low. When you replace the RW intake seacock,relocate the strainer 6in. or so above the docked waterline.


Cheers/Len

Top of the strainer cover comes within 1/8” of the sole plate. I relocated it from factory install a while back. It’s already as high as it can go. Thanks for the thought though.

[Nani Kai]

Originally Posted by HopCar

You should be able to remove the stem to inspect it without water getting in the boat.

If it is broken you might be able to buy a new stem and replace it. It will be very hard to find a replacement stem and if you go that way, call the manufacturer and see if they will send you one.

If the stem is broken, the ball is probably jammed. Shoot some lubricant in the stem hole before you reassemble it.

I stocked stems for Apollo brand ball valves in my store. I don’t know if the new owners still stock them. I sold very few.

Forensic disassembly when I get it out in November will tell me if the type of ball valve I have can be repaired in the manner you recommend. And if I understand it well enough to do it in stasis. Thanks.

[Nani Kai]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Nani, I'm voting with Bill and Marc. First, doing the job in the water under any but emergency conditions is an invitation to participate in this weeks YouTube "Bone-Headed Boaters." Second, if this one is bad, you are set up for having the same situation or worse with another very soon. The recommended course is that you survey your through hulls, identifying the potentially bad ones, purchase the right collection and a tube of sealant, travel to a friendly DIY yard, and change them out.

The longer I work with bronze, the more I like Marelon...

I agree with all three of you. Thanks.

[Nani Kai]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Get rid of that throughull valve combination and install a real seacock with flange.

Georgia has 9' tides. Find a sand beach and use the tide to change it.

Always admire your “git ‘er done” attitude Boatpoker. Going all in against the tide though is a bet that exceeds my risk threshold. Thanks.

[Jolly Roger]

You don't need to do any of these things to completely remove the ball valve assembly from the through-hull stem and replace it with a new sea-cock. It can be done in the water
Take a look at an article on my website http://schooner-britannia.com/sea_stopper.html

[Nani Kai]

Originally Posted by Manateeman

BillK is spot on. You have a thru hull with a ball valve. This is not in my opinion a seacock. I would not “whack” anything inside or outside. The tow boats use nerf balls but if you break the thru hull trying to get the ball valve off...then you have a problem.
There is a Yard in St Mary’s GA...Nice guy, can haul cats. It not far from the ICW.
I would put in Groco adaptor plates and ball valves.
There is a Marine how to article on this but I don’t know how to post...maybe some cruiser can help.
I would never again install Forespar Marelon seacocks in any boat I build. I don’t think much of anything plastic for the job. Bronze or 316 stainless but not plastic.
I’ve put Apollo seacocks in boats 30 years ago and they also work fine. The Groco adaptor plates let’s you change valves or cap off without hauling. I use nickel pipe tape and Tef-Gel on my stainless. The corrosion issue with 316 is nonsense.
CeraKote them if you feel it’s necessary...I don’t.
You might want to consider a seachest arrangement. After your Groco, you can add an electric ball valve so if you are off ship for a short day, you flip a switch and nothing is open...longer time away, use your seacock.
Send me a pm if you need more help.
Happy trails to you.
Captain Mark and his manatee crew of professional boatbuilders.

Always useful information from Cap’n Mark and his crew. Mahalo plenny! I will follow up later on various brand recommendations. Didn’t really plan to whack on the fitting. Just a bit of frustration coming through. It’s okay, I’m better now.

[jamhass]

I did a similar project on our boat. Ball valve failed at the handle. Purchased a new seacock, had my diver replace it in the water. He did the entire job in about 5 minutes. One diver held the t-hull secure (from underwater), once the valve was loosened, used a plastic bowl to keep water out (again from underneath), replaced the valve (from above), removed the bowl and secured everything. No water in the boat, no excitement, no worries. Used a seacock rather than another ball valve, planning to do a proper "Marine How To" install at the next haul.

[michaeltorras]

Originally Posted by Nani Kai

This is a new one on me. 2012 Leopard 39, well maintained. The ball valve connected to the thru hull that supplies raw water intake for the starboard air conditioner does not shut off the water flow when closed. Doesn’t even slow it down. The valve works smoothly, no hesitation, and moves the full 90 degrees. I can see the shaft rotating. The handle is snug. When I removed the sea strainer cover to clean the strainer, water began pouring into the bilge. Non-stop until I replaced the cover and screwed it down tight. We’re not talking about some water spilling out as I removed the top. Full flow no matter if the ball valve handle was open or closed. Never had a problem before with this valve at all.

Only thing I can think of is that the valve shaft is broken inside and is not rotating the ball.

I’m at Brunswick Landing Marina, Georgia. No capability hereabouts to haul out that I’m aware of. I’m only here for another 6 days to do basic maintenance, then back to work.

I am considering diving the hull and whacking a wooden cone up into the thru hull from below and then changing the valve from topside. Not overly enthusiastic about attempting that as failure would be disastrous. I could wait until such time as I can move the boat to St. Augustine or another boat yard nearer if there is one. That won’t happen until November at the earliest.

Anyone else ever experience this? Any bright ideas to resolve it? As long as the strainer cover stays on there’s no water ingress. All the hoses to and from the thru hull, the pump and the strainer were replaced April of last year.

All ideas gratefully appreciated.

Hey hey, glad to hear you're staying with us at Brunswick Landing Marina!

If you need to, you can beach your vessel across from Dock 1 at the marina and work on the boats while the tides change. We own the beach and don't have a problem with customers utilizing it as long as they aren't doing anything that is harmful to the waterways.

If you need further help, let me know by calling the dock office. They can get you in touch with me.

-Michael Torras, Brunswick Landing Marina, Marina Manager.

[Nani Kai]

[QUOTE=michaeltorras;3437718]Hey hey, glad to hear you're staying with us at Brunswick Landing Marina!

If you need to, you can beach your vessel across from Dock 1 at the marina and work on the boats while the tides change. We own the beach and don't have a problem with customers utilizing it as long as they aren't doing anything that is harmful to the waterways.

If you need further help, let me know by calling the dock office. They can get you in touch with me.

-Michael Torras, Brunswick Landing Marina, Marina Manager.

[/QUOTE

Michael,

Thanks so much for your support. Just another example of the "we're all in this together" community spirit here at BLM.

I'm running short of time this trip and am here alone but will definitely consider your offer when I return in November.

I really appreciate your concern and support.

Aloha