Thru Hull install question

[sagablu]

Hi all,

So I decided to replace all the Thru hulls and seacocks in my 1976 Pearson 10M. After a whole day of fighting I have removed all the frozen bronze and two questionable Marelon seacocks. Happy no hoses broke during my first season, Otherwise I would be asking salvage questions.

I will be working alone, so how do I install the thru hulls? Will the caulking hold it in place long enough for me to board and thread the nut? Any tricks to make this project go a bit easier? All seacocks and thru hulls I am using are bronze.

Thanks!

[Diesel Bill]

Can you use a wire coat hanger to hold the valve up in the hull or a piece of 2x4 or broom handle holding it up from below?

The caulking will hold it into the hull just long enough for you to climb up into the boat and then it will drop to the ground as you look at it.

[Three Sisters]

There are raised metal tabs on the interior of the several thruhulls that were replaced years ago. More than likely included in the design for the exact purpose you are inquiring about. Whether or not this feature is still available today I could not say. Of course, best of luck in the successful completion of the job.

[Sardean]

Use some elastic cord, tie it off in boat, make it long enough to hang out hole, thread through the fitting pull tight and tie a stick or rod to cord to hold fitting in place

Sent from my D6653 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[mike d.]

I just used a piece of 3/4 by how ever long to hold in place from the ground up. Highest 1st the shorten as you go.

[Steve Bean]

How about a jack stand and blocks of wood supporting a wedge in the through-hull?

[Steve Bean]

How about a jack stand and blocks of wood supporting a wedge in the through-hull?

[HopCar]

Sounds like you are planning to screw a valve on a thru-hull fitting and call it a seacock.
It's not a seacock.
I suggest you take a look at this and follow his instructions.
Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

[ramblinrod]

Originally Posted by sagablu

Hi all,

So I decided to replace all the Thru hulls and seacocks in my 1976 Pearson 10M. After a whole day of fighting I have removed all the frozen bronze and two questionable Marelon seacocks. Happy no hoses broke during my first season, Otherwise I would be asking salvage questions.

I will be working alone, so how do I install the thru hulls? Will the caulking hold it in place long enough for me to board and thread the nut? Any tricks to make this project go a bit easier? All seacocks and thru hulls I am using are bronze.

Thanks!

Thru-Hull install as a one-man job.

1. Apply sealant.
2. Push into hole.
3. Apply Gorilla Tape.
4. Go in the boat and turn on the nut.
5. Use jam nuts or an internal tool against bore tabs to hold while tightening mounting nut.

(Assuming the backing pad is already installed.)

[Golden Echo]

Ok here is something you could construct cheaply.
All of this you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's.
Buy a pvc collar that will fit over the thru-hull on the inside and be longer than the thru-hull by about 2 or 3 inches. Get a block of wood and drill a 1/2 inch hole in it. Buy a piece of all thread 1/2" and cut it just long enough to pass thru the block of wood and out the thru-hull about 6 to 8 inches. Get another block of wood with another 1/2" hole for the out side. On the inside of the hull you will have the collar, the wood, the all thread, a washer and nut to fit the all thread. The other end of the all thread will hang out the hull. You goop up the thru-hull, pass the all thread thru it and place the other block of wood on the outside plus another washer and nut. Hold onto the all thread as you tighten the nut on the outside. It will slowly pull the thru-hull tight against the hull. Let the caulking set. Remove the apparatus and put the inside nut on the thru-hull and snug it against the inside hull preferably using some kind of backing block between the nut or seacock. If you are worried about the thru-hull turning as you tighten the nut or seacock, find a piece of flat blade steel that will pass thru the thru-hull but will catch the tabs that are molded on the inside of the thru-hull. Hold the bar stock with vise grips or a crescent wrench while you tighten the nut/seacock. It won't be easy but you'll be able to do the job by yourself. I'm sure there will be heavy drinking by the end of the day, but hey it's a boat right? Let me know what you think.

[Ivansgarage]

8 bucks Harbor Freight Tools great for holding on to hull, stick next to hole
in hull, put in fitting, wedge with wood block or stick. Everybody should carry
one for holding on to boat, cleaning and working on hull.

http://www.harborfreight.com/dual-cu...ter-46134.html

-----------------

[Scott Berg]

As someone already noted, it's very bad form (even if too common) to install a thru hull fitting to a nut and then screw a ball valve on to it. The ball valves will have tapered threads and the thru hull fittings straight threads. The correct installation is to thru bolt either a seacock or Groco flanged adapter to the hull, and then to screw the thru hull into the seacock with sealant from the outside. It usually takes two people to thru bolt the seacock; then the thru hull just threads in. Remember that a hull fitting should be able to withstand 500lbs in any direction; a proper hull mounted seacock or valve adapter with good flange and backing plate are a necessity (in my opinion) on any seagoing vessel.

[Cthoops]

If you don't want to drill extra holes in your hull, you can use this method for installing without thrubolts:

Seacock Backing Plates / Alternate Method / No Through Bolts Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

We've replaced all of the seacocks and thruhulls on our boat this way (with one still left to do this weekend), and we're very comfortable with our decision to do so.