Tiller delaminated

[Rol1964]

The tiller is probably same age as the boat (almost 50) and it’s been renewed before but now I think it might be better to replace? Or is there some secret way to get into the laminate gaps and reglue, compress and get another few years out of it?
Thx Rol1964

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Rol1964

The tiller is probably same age as the boat (almost 50) and it’s been renewed before but now I think it might be better to replace? Or is there some secret way to get into the laminate gaps and reglue, compress and get another few years out of it?
Thx Rol1964

really depends a lot on what the delamination looks like, pictures would help.

but if it’s a pretty big de lamination you could slather epoxy in between all of the layers and get it into a vacuum bag and pull it down. Just re-laminate the thing.

You could probably do the same with clamps as well

[thomm225]

I would replace.

My tiller broke in half at a very bad time, and I had to sail in using just the sails to steer by.

Fortunately for me I had steered with sails only many times before during races on beach cats.

I lucked out and got a replacement with the holes already drilled off ebay for $75.00.

[Chotu]

$75?!?!! Wow! If you can get one that cheap you should do that. The Apoxsee will cost more. Plus it’s a waste of your time.

I change my vote to what Thomm said if you can do it

[TrentePieds]

The fancy "S"-curve in the tiller is only there for cosmetic reasons. There is no functional reason to have anything other than a straight stick. It would he easy enuff to fashion a straight one from an axe handle of similar. "ordinary" wood (like 2 x 4) wont do. It has to be ash, hickory or ironwood, or whatever HD tool handles such as axe-handles are made of these days. No laminating or glueing would be required.

TrentePieds

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Chotu

$75?!?!! Wow! If you can get one that cheap you should do that. The Apoxsee will cost more. Plus it’s a waste of your time.

I change my vote to what Thomm said if you can do it

I got very lucky with that tiller being available on ebay.

[thomm225]

Here's a new Mahogany and Ash Tiller for a Pearson 26 for $179.

Sunbrella cover $39.00 more. Not bad for a new tiller with cover.

https://store.ruddercraft.com/index....product_id=334

[Rol1964]

Originally Posted by thomm225

Here's a new Mahogany and Ash Tiller for a Pearson 26 for $179.

Sunbrella cover $39.00 more. Not bad for a new tiller with cover.

https://store.ruddercraft.com/index....product_id=334

I saw this earlier when I searched...leaning towards going this route. My tiller has been making the occasional creak / crack sound that doesn't inspire confidence...hence this post.

[Don C L]

I’ve done both, reglue and clamp, and also replace. Really depends on how bad your tiller is. You can put epoxy in a syringe and squirt it in, but if the wood is in bad shape the epoxy may not stick well. And what boat is this? I have to disagree with tp, the curve in the tiller may be necessary depending on the head of the rudder post, how the jaws fit and the rudder post angle. In most cases the curve is not critical, but I have seen tiller/rudder post combos that showed the curve made sense. In my case I want to be able to steer even when the tiller is up (and can given the rudder angle.) I happen to like the particular curve I have.
I got my new tiller at the local chandlery where it had been sitting in a tub for years (someone ordered it and then changed their mind) and I was able to get it for $80 I think it was. Btw, no matter how nice it looks, put 7 or 8 coats of varnish on it.

[dfelsent]

I had a tiller snap. Really annoying.
Replacement was also from a tub at the local chandlery.
I routed some grooves in the sides and laid glass fiber tow in the grooves. Coats of epoxy then varnish.
Any that ess shape helps it be out of the way when you flip it up at the mooring or dock.

[donradcliffe]

We've gone to wheelbarow handles.

[Chotu]

Also if you are buying something new, you could always improve on the tiller:



https://www.clearwatercomposites.com...hoCLlsQAvD_BwE

Either use straight if possible (by raising attachment point at rudder), or make changes to the tube so it has the right angles