Titanium

[GordMay]

TITANIUM:
Titanium is 40% stronger & 40% lighter than stainless steel and most important, titanium is very corrosion resistant.
Listed below are some, but not all forms of corrosion that have virtually no effect on Titanium in a seawater environment:
* Cavitation Corrosion
* Crevice Corrosion
* Electrochemical Corrosion
* Electrolytic Corrosion
* Erosion Corrosion
* Galvanic Corrosion.

For further information, including products and pricing:
http://www.titan-marine-hardware.com/index.htm
Titanium Thru-Hulls: http://www.titan-marine-hardware.com...thru-hulls.htm
Titanium Hose Clamps: http://www.titan-marine-hardware.com...ose-clamps.htm

Q: I asked “Titan” what they recommended to use for Seacocks with their Titanium Thru-Hulls. I would understand their (following) answer to be an interim recommendation only.

A: Hello Gord, actually we're developing a line of Titanium Seacocks/Ball Valves that should be available mid-2005. Titanium will not corrode in seawater as you know, and other metals will still have their Galvanic corrosion issues, but not the Titanium. We would recommend using the Marelon as no corrosion issues would exist. However with composite materials the issue of melting in any fire situation exists, and you need to be careful with exposure to sunlight, as I'm told the material degrades under those conditions.
Best regards, Hugh Richards
customerservice@titan-marine-hardware.com

[Talbot]

and you need to be careful with exposure to sunlight,

That will be an interesting trick with a through-hull!

[delmarrey]

I built a 4" titanium rudder shaft for an associates 43' racer about 4 years ago. So far I haven't heard any complaints and it lightened up the rudder by 60 lbs. Plus a titanium anchor to make the boat legal for it's class.

As for thruhulls, that would be great. But exspensive! Now you would just need the titanium ball valves. Mo muny.............._/)

[GordMay]

1-1/4" Titanium Thru-Hull
#TTH0114
Titan Price: $70.97
Not that expensive!

[Strygaldwir]

Hmmmm.... Most sources don't recommend mixing metal and maleron for seacock/thru hulls. They say there is a potiential for uneven expansion rates and resulting leakage. Has anyone else heard of this issue?

[Alan Wheeler]

Not really a problem. If you use a good thread sealant, there isn't a significant enough expansion difference to make them leak. Well. I haven't seen them leak, but then, some of you guy's get some scarey cold water temps in some places and scarey warm in others. Maybe we are too small a temp swing to get any worries here.
However, you can also buy Marlon ball valves. I have them as well and have had no problems. They seem to be over engineered if you ask me and I have no worries about them being down there.

[BC Mike]

We can get a bigger change in temperature in one day than you get all year, as in 15 below to 10 above. Absolute swing is about 35 below to 41 above but not every year, the water goes from solid to warm. With the boat in the water we have to remember to close all the through hull fittings, when the boat is out they are left open. I have my boat outside the bedroom window.
Michael

[Alan Wheeler]

And once again,-- you moved from NZ because ????

Hey Delmarrey, how on earth do you work with Titanium. Like can you gas cut and weld it OK??? How do you drill it???
And a whole rudder shaft of it, mate!! glad I wasn't paying for it or Ummmm, didn't fall of the back of a space shuttle did it?

[GordMay]

From “FORESPAR” at:
http://www.forespar.com/resources/ti...eThruHulls.htm

Marelon® Valves on Bronze Thru-Hulls (It can be done!)

For years, boat builders, boat yards and repair facilities have installed replacement valves on existing thru-hulls. This is a common practice as it is less labor intensive than removing and replacing a thru-hull that has been in a boat for years. As long as the old bronze thru-hull is sound (no electrolysis or corrosion damage) then why go through the trouble, added labor and expense of replacing it.

Marelon® Ball Valves (MF 850 & 849 series) can and have been installed on bronze thru-hulls for years. Even some new production boat builders are installing our Marelon Integrated valves on bronze and stainless steel thru-hulls as standard equipment. High quality blue-water fishing boat builders such as Grady-White Boats are using Forespar® Marelon® "93" series Integrated valve systems on bronze thru-hulls without any trouble.

Tips:

* Be sure the bronze thru-hull is sound
* Be sure the threads are clean and all old sealant is removed
* Do not cross-thread! Bronze will "cut" threads if forced onto Marelon®
* Use adequate Teflon® pipe tape or plumber’s dope for thread sealant
* Be sure you do not "violate" the sealant on the thru-hull by twisting in the hull
* Do not over-tighten the valve. "Hand tight" is all that is needed
* Properly bond or ground the bronze thru-hull. It is still subject to electrolysis and corrosion, even with the Marelon® valve installed
* For the "Ultimate" in corrosion control and weight savings, change all thru-hulls to Marelon® as well as the valves!

Note: There are a number of foreign-made bronze thru-hulls on the market. Forespar® cannot guarantee thread compatibility on these inferior thru-hulls.

[delmarrey]

One problem I've seen, when replaceing a Marelon valve on a thruhull after it has had a bronze valve, the Marelon valve will not seal. That is due to the tapered threads in the bronze valve. If that bronze valve was tightened down extreamly tight it compresses the end of the thruhull making it tapered. Then when the Marelon valve is installed it screws all the way on and bottoms out, still not sealing. A lot of teflon tape has to be applied to get it to seal.

The best thing would be to just replace the thruhull if this were the case...._/)

[Alan Wheeler]

yep, it is all to common to find ones that have used a huge pipe wrench to tighten a fitting with a tapered thread. Hand tight is alway's enough. I too have been quilty of applying just a little more than the "armstrong" wrench at times. I do however, like useing pipe sealants like Loctite etc. It lubricates the thread allowing easier turning and then hardens to stop the joint from coming loose. I think that is why some tend to use a wrench to get the joint firm. But they are unaware of the damage they are causing.

[Strygaldwir]

Just bought some of the hose clamps from titan-marine-hardware.com. They were a pleasure to deal with and the clamps appear first rate! Very light though! I could not believe how little 100 clamps weighed. But, the true test is in the wearing! I'll see what kind of condition they are in after six months or so. Time shall tell.

Keith

[Strygaldwir]

I still like the titanium clamps, but! A bit ago, I bought a bunch of titanium hose clamps. I had intended to replace most of the clamps on my boat with them. I'd hope to cut down on the long term maintenance. I like the titanium, but there are many instances where they just can't be used and steel is appropriate.

The clamps I got were probably intended to replace the standard steel clamps. These clamps were probably not intended to secure very stiff hose. When I attempted to clamp down on a hose with a rigid wall or metal reinforcement, I would strip the clamp where the threads of the screw engaged the threads of the clamp. At first I thought it was an abberation, but it is very consistent. I then tried a standard steel clamp, same issue! I bought some "AWAB" clamps these are extra heavy duty. Worked like a charm. There were a couple already on the boat when I got it. I put them in some Phospo, wiped them with a cloth, they looked brand new. The rust was just surface rust.

So any way the update is the titanium clamps have some limitations, they are not a wholesale replacement, yet.

Keith

[delmarrey]

This is what you need for those exhaust and heavy hoses

http://www.idealclamp.com/brochure.c...cation_id=2983

They do sell these at marine supplies but at a maked up price.

[Strygaldwir]

Del, excellant call!

I have used that type of clamp to secure auto engine exhausts, they have never failed me. Expensive, but they are well worth it in high vibration, heat and critical connection applications.

Keith