Toe Rail Varnish & Protection

[Bowdrie]

I thought I'd throw this into the mix, just some general rambling.
Perhaps not particularly addressing this thread, but germane to many things on a boat, especially those that get into the realm of "Cosmetics".
When we, (me included,) try to answer queries/questions about such things as painting/varnishing, (and many other jobs,) the answers sometimes are all over the map, and it's not surprising.
What works for someone in the Tropics under a blazing Sun with insufferable humidity won't be the same as someone who's enjoying mild weather and low humidity.
The same can be said for geographical location.
Some may have access to a wide range of products at their beck-an-call. Others may have only limited access to a few products unless they order from halfway around the world.
Another aspect is what each of us considers a "good" job, it's SO subjective.
Personal experience and skill level also play a part as well as the quality and assortment of tools available for the work/job at hand.
Of course, finance and time constraints always have a role, whether doing it yourself or hiring out the work.
Personal philosophy, the way we "see" a job also plays a part.
Anyway, I'm just thinking out loud.

[Scrimshaw4]

I am in complete agreement with those that have recommended of Pettit Flagship varnish. At least 4 coats of the High Build #2015 with the Pettit EZPoxy Performance Enhancer #3021 creates a deep lasting shine. We had our bout done last spring. It's been exposed to high heat and sun last summer and has been open to the elements all winter. The finish looks as good today as it did in the spring! Yes, badger brush is the best. Just remember to apply it using the wet edge brush stroke: Dry into wet then lift. Do not go back and forth. For holidays, still go dry into wet and you won't leave any ridges. The key to a clean job is taping. Run a credit card over the tape at the teak edge to ensure solid adhesion. JMHO

[s/v Jedi]

For exposed caulk I recommend LifeSeal. The 3M 4000UV used to be my choice but they did something wrong with it’s formula and it wouldn’t last the first year.

Maybe they fixed it but I’m still mad at them.

[OldManMirage]

The master marine wood worker who showed me how to varnish would not approve of your sanding with an orbital. Just saying. This guy was amazing - to the point of being on the cover of Wooden Boat Magazine.

But his method was ONLY to hand sand, no palm sanders or orbitals or anything else, as they will leave marks and lines. Typically he would use a block. But he would start with 60 grit and move on down through stages into the 3-400 grit. Minimum of 6 coats, preferably 9. First coat cut 50/50 with mineral spirits, the 2nd 75/25, and subsequent coats as needed for flow.

He always got that "Mirror" finish !

[Spindrift NH]

There’s a place in Summerville that sells hardwoods, probably cheaper and faster to purchase teak there than driving 12 hours for a piece.
If you’re staying in Charleston, or anyplace else in the lower latitudes, for any length of time after spending all the time and energy redoing the toe rails have a way to cover them.

[Tortuga's Lie]

I gave up on varnish and Cetol......I went to the darkside............PAINT!
I used a good quality primer, then one part urethane paint (Brightside) with a hardener additive. If it gets dinged and needs touching up, no problem; if it needs a recoating after a few years, light scuffing and recoat one application. No regrets! I chose a color that was complimentary to the boat and give it a more modern looks. Wish I had better pictures.

[gonesail]

yes to hand sanding. it's the only way. as for thinning the varnish .. I have found that the Interlux 333 brushing liquid extends the dry time and flow .. important if you are working in warm weather or sunlight .. which many of us do. agree with the OP .. caulking seems like overkill and a waste of time on the toe rails.

[newboat]

I would be careful with online advice from everyone and their brother (including me). But, always use and apply materials to manufacturer spec and guidelines. for instance - if you read the Allwood application guide, do NOT use mineral spirits at all...
I have done my own boat, toerails and al,l in Allwood, following the guidelines (10 coats). It looks great and is definitely more long lasting than conventional varnish (Epifanes etc). A 12 coat Epifanes job by a pro will be a bit more beautiful in my opinion, but I am a marine industry professional and wanted to give it a try on my own boat. Time will tell and I don't relish the day it needs to be stripped again but so far so good.
I would not caulk with 5200-it is meant for permanent adhesion not caulk. 4000UV or equivalent Sika product is the right thing to use.
I would not recommend using good varnish brushes for Awlwood - spray is probably best, but I used throwaway foam brushes. It is nearly impossible to get a brush properly clean with Allwood so you will ruin lots of good varnish brushes. That being said, I use good badger varnish brushes (and keep them for years) for conventional (Epifanes etc) varnishes
As someone else noted, the heavy lifting in refinishing teak is the prep-applying the finish is pretty easy if you have cooperating weather or are under cover. Good Luck!

[rls8r]

The Pettit varnishes are good, but I'll support your initial thought about using Allwood. Yep, it's expensive, but I've found that it's easier to use, easier to maintain, and lasts longer than 'regular' varnishes. I've tried a LOT of varnishes (Bristol, Honey Teak, some Pettits, Epiphanes, etc.) on my brightwork (and I have a fair amount of it) and I've settled on Allwood for the outside wood.

The temp/humidity window for Allwood is pretty wide. In many cases I could get the primer coat and all 8 topcoat layers on in two days.

Read the manufacturer's instructions and follow them to the letter. You don't need two coats of primer. You don't even need a brush for the primer - use a rag.

Don't use paper-backed painter's tape! The Alwood primer is like water. If you use the yellow primer it will run down and stain your gel coat (yes, even if you're very, very careful). Use plastic painter's tape and make very sure that you press the edge down.

Badger hair brushes are good for the topcoat, but I've had good luck with (some) foam brushes. Some disintegrate and some (can't recall the brand - but I think they're made in New England) hold up.

Don't go crazy on the various grits of sandpaper. Get some good 120 to use before the primer and thereafter use 400 grit paper. That's all you'll need.

Allwood lays down quite well and (usually) provides a very smooth, almost mirror, finish. Of course, don't apply anything in direct sunlight or you'll get little bubbles from the wood offgassing. If you want to go the extra mile you can buff the final topcoat with 3M Perfect-It.

Year-to-year maintenance is easy and to my way of thinking justifies the extra cost. I just rub the wood down with Scotch Brite red (very fine) and apply a new topcoat. I've left my large lazarette cover "unmaintained" for the last two years as a test and it looks almost as good as the wood that I maintain (and I don't, yet, have UV covers for the woodwork).

[rls8r]

Me again. One more thing about the Allwood. If you use it - don't use any 'teak brightener' that uses oxalic acid (e.g., Barkeeper's Friend, Interlux Premium, etc.).

About replacing the missing portion of the toe rail... That could be a significant project if the bend is significant and you have little experience bending wood and scarfing the new bent piece to match the existing portion of the toe rail. Do it wrong and you'll run through several pieces of teak - but hey, it's a learning experience, right?

Again, I'm not familiar with how your boat is constructed so I can't comment about your notion of filling in the existing screw holes and drilling new ones. My toe rail is held on with machine screws that are not only through-bolted, but the fiberglass (and perhaps even the toe rail itself) through which the screws pass is also threaded. How you fasten the toe rail will depend a lot on how the deck flange is constructed.

[AKA-None]

Not related to teak per se
When I restained my house it was pointed out that the darker the color the better the uv resistance

So something to keep in mind if you aren’t going clear coat