West System Epoxy or Kilz

[Flyingriki]

To follow up Zengirl's suggestion, there are products in the construction industry used to alow subterranean water to run down the face of deep foundations to a perimeter drain pipe. One I saw was an inch or so thick hard, plastic, open weave that was identical to a product sold at the boat show for several times as much. Under cushions this allows air circulation avoiding mildew.

Something like this:
Enviromat Strip Drain 080N/18 | Other Applications | Keene Building Products

[Shenandoah]

Don Casey (whose books I recommend) says to use Alkyd Enamel low-luster exterior trim house paint in lockers, etc. Kilz as a primer couldn't hurt.

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by Flyingriki

To follow up Zengirl's suggestion, there are products in the construction industry used to alow subterranean water to run down the face of deep foundations to a perimeter drain pipe. One I saw was an inch or so thick hard, plastic, open weave that was identical to a product sold at the boat show for several times as much. Under cushions this allows air circulation avoiding mildew.

Something like this:
Enviromat Strip Drain 080N/18 | Other Applications | Keene Building Products

I tired finding some of this (also goes under roofing), but couldn't locate a small amount to order. Ended up just buying the hypervent. If you know of a site, please let me know.

Matt

[Meacenas]

As a professional painter, ( I have painted signs for 30 years )I have used Kilz latex white on all exterior work for many years and found it to be a very durable product, much more so than many of its higher priced competitors. For an overcoat I use Rustoleum oils and the same can be said. Most of the work I have done is still viable after 10 years in the weather ( except for red for some reason).
Two part epoxy would be overkill, both in terms of use and cost. The application sounds like these paints would work fine with 2 coats of each. Let each coat dry 12 to 24 hours. And the vent post earlier is a good idea.

[ArmyDaveNY]

Originally Posted by Meacenas

Most of the work I have done is still viable after 10 years in the weather ( except for red for some reason).

I've been told that red paint on a boat absorbs the UV better, thus fading and breaking down faster than other colors. I am not sure if this is actually what is happening, but in the auto industry this is a known issue also. It seems that other colors reflect the UV better whereas the red absorbs it.

[Nani Kai]

Maybe I'm missing something here but my experience with Kilz and BIN is that they are stain blocking primers, not topcoats. (I'm facilities manager of our Retreat Center, 12000 sf under roof, 120 yr old New England farmhouse/barn). Yes I'm aware folks have primed stuff and called it a day but why only do the job half way, especially on your boat? I would use the shellac based BIN or Kilz, not the latex based, then cover with a high quality Exterior grade Acrylic Latex top coat. The shellac will penetrate the wood, seal over stains, help repel future moisture and provide an excellent foundation for the top coat. I really like Sherwin Williams Duration topcoat for wet environments. I used it to topcoat a bench I made for my shower. 7+ years later no mold, no mildew, no peeling. btw, if you are painting wood of any persuasion and have to put on 2-3 coats to get good coverage it's because you didn't prime it to start with. There are paints on the market with primer/topcoat mixed in the same can that you could try but in a moist, potentially soaked environment (can you say "I left the forward hatch open while underway") I would always prime plus two topcoats. You are not saving money by buying cheap paint or skipping the primer or settling with one topcoat. Either do it the first time right or do it again later.

[flblowfish]

Originally Posted by Nani Kai

Maybe I'm missing something here but my experience with Kilz and BIN is that they are stain blocking primers, not topcoats. (I'm facilities manager of our Retreat Center, 12000 sf under roof, 120 yr old New England farmhouse/barn). Yes I'm aware folks have primed stuff and called it a day but why only do the job half way, especially on your boat? I would use the shellac based BIN or Kilz, not the latex based, then cover with a high quality Exterior grade Acrylic Latex top coat. The shellac will penetrate the wood, seal over stains, help repel future moisture and provide an excellent foundation for the top coat. I really like Sherwin Williams Duration topcoat for wet environments. I used it to topcoat a bench I made for my shower. 7+ years later no mold, no mildew, no peeling. btw, if you are painting wood of any persuasion and have to put on 2-3 coats to get good coverage it's because you didn't prime it to start with. There are paints on the market with primer/topcoat mixed in the same can that you could try but in a moist, potentially soaked environment (can you say "I left the forward hatch open while underway") I would always prime plus two topcoats. You are not saving money by buying cheap paint or skipping the primer or settling with one topcoat. Either do it the first time right or do it again later.

This ^^ is pretty much the direction I'm going to go. Am I safe to assume that Rustoleum paint will work for top coats? Do I need to sand the boards or just wash down before priming?

[flblowfish]

Originally Posted by Nani Kai

Maybe I'm missing something here but my experience with Kilz and BIN is that they are stain blocking primers, not topcoats. (I'm facilities manager of our Retreat Center, 12000 sf under roof, 120 yr old New England farmhouse/barn). Yes I'm aware folks have primed stuff and called it a day but why only do the job half way, especially on your boat? I would use the shellac based BIN or Kilz, not the latex based, then cover with a high quality Exterior grade Acrylic Latex top coat. The shellac will penetrate the wood, seal over stains, help repel future moisture and provide an excellent foundation for the top coat. I really like Sherwin Williams Duration topcoat for wet environments. I used it to topcoat a bench I made for my shower. 7+ years later no mold, no mildew, no peeling. btw, if you are painting wood of any persuasion and have to put on 2-3 coats to get good coverage it's because you didn't prime it to start with. There are paints on the market with primer/topcoat mixed in the same can that you could try but in a moist, potentially soaked environment (can you say "I left the forward hatch open while underway") I would always prime plus two topcoats. You are not saving money by buying cheap paint or skipping the primer or settling with one topcoat. Either do it the first time right or do it again later.

This ^^ is pretty much the direction I'm going to go. Am I safe to assume that Rustoleum paint will work for top coats? Do I need to sand the boards or just wash down before priming?

[Cheechako]

So you are saying the boards are bare now? any good paint will work but avoid latex types. If they are bare be sure to dry them out well first. Maybe a couple days in the sun or at least outside. In the sun you must turn often. I think Kilz is not Shellac based like the older type wood sealers...? I have used Rustoleum paints on interior painting and find it's as good if not better than many "marine" enamels. Much better than one part "Brightsides" which I find to be terrible.
Every time I have tried to use Kilz on home projects I've been terribly disappointed in it. If you want to seal the wood prior to painting real Shellac works well, clear or pigmented. It dries in minutes and is compatible with most overcoats.
If you epoxy, be prepared to do a bunch of sanding before paint for a bond and gumming up the paper fast.

[flblowfish]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

So you are saying the boards are bare now? any good paint will work but avoid latex types. If they are bare be sure to dry them out well first. Maybe a couple days in the sun or at least outside. In the sun you must turn often. I think Kilz is not Shellac based like the older type wood sealers...? I have used Rustoleum paints on interior painting and find it's as good if not better than many "marine" enamels. Much better than one part "Brightsides" which I find to be terrible.
Every time I have tried to use Kilz on home projects I've been terribly disappointed in it. If you want to seal the wood prior to painting real Shellac works well, clear or pigmented. It dries in minutes and is compatible with most overcoats.
If you epoxy, be prepared to do a bunch of sanding before paint for a bond and gumming up the paper fast.

I don't believe the boards are "bare". I only got a brief look. If anything, and I wish I could post a picture, they might have been painted at some point. I can see mold and water stains on them. We are headed over tomorrow to start pulling the hull rat fur and washing everything down. I will know more once I can give them a good scrubbing.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by flblowfish

I don't believe the boards are "bare". I only got a brief look. If anything, and I wish I could post a picture, they might have been painted at some point. I can see mold and water stains on them. We are headed over tomorrow to start pulling the hull rat fur and washing everything down. I will know more once I can give them a good scrubbing.

Good! A good clean up (maybe a tablespoon of bleach and water in a spraybottle) and light sanding and repaint should do it!

[flblowfish]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Good! A good clean up (maybe a tablespoon of bleach and water in a spraybottle) and light sanding and repaint should do it!

[Nani Kai]

Better prep equals best results. I agree with drying everything in the sun first. Then Sand with orbital or palm sander 100-120 grit . Brush, air blow then tack cloth off sand dust. Lightly wipe down any visible mildew with a diluted bleach/Water solution, Dry thoroughly in the sun. Prime, paint. Then Rhum 5x5, in chilled brandy glass, feet up, sunset. Fair winds.

[jkindredpdx]

Originally Posted by flblowfish

This ^^ is pretty much the direction I'm going to go. Am I safe to assume that Rustoleum paint will work for top coats? Do I need to sand the boards or just wash down before priming?

I've painted with Interlux Bilge Kote, where visible Top Coat, and Kilz. Washing with TSP or a light sanding will dull the existing surface and help adhesion.