Westerbeke W 100 propulsion engine

[Sutton Scnr 68]

Help! I have a Westerbeke W-100 propulsion engine. I am looking for an oil pan. Westerbeke says they have no parts for this engine, it was last sold in 1991. Engine could be a Nissan or Mitsubitshi 6 cylinder 100 hp.non turbo. Engine has about 3k hours and ran good. Any one have a lead on parts or is parting one out please let me know.

Possibly looking at repower, any thoughts on a Yanmar 4LH110 common rail?

[Joli]

Might use an oil pan from a W108C6? Same engine I believe. Also call Hansen Marine, they're great! https://hansenmarine.com/

[Sutton Scnr 68]

Thanks, I did talk to Hansen, they said no go, talk to Westerbeke. I believe the engine was bought through Hansen originally. Don't know if the W108C6 is the same block. need to confirm this, anyone?

[jimbunyard]

Well,, I hope you're in England or Australia. The engine is a Perkins 6.247, made by Mazda under license to Perkins.

I could find fairly credible information that it was used in Australian Ford F100 pickups in the late 70's and early 80's, in Range Rovers of uncertain years, and generators, also of uncertain years. They may well have been used in other equipment.

It seems that there are internal engine parts still available, so there must be a population of them still around.

From what I can figure out, Mazda started making the engine for themselves and called it the ZB model. It may be also called the T4100, or that could be the model of the truck it was used it. If so, that may be good, because the truck seems very popular, and if Mazda didn't modify the block when they began unlicensed production, a pan from the ZB engine may well bolt right up to the Perkins 6.247 block.

There was a lot of used stuff available in Queensland, with some phone calls you might be able to uncover some better source info even in the US, if that's where you are.

[Jacana]

Let me know if you need some help as I live in Queensland and can make some calls to try and source the pan for you .

[skipperpete]

What happened with the oil pan that requires replacing it, corrosion or impact damage? An oil pan, even an aluminum one can be repaired fairly easily.
The Yanmar 4LH-TE is a great engine but compared to your current engine it’ll be a bit light on for torque so you would need to run the numbers for prop pitch and diameter...... and it will cost about $20,000 for the engine package so there’s that to take into consideration.
Pete.

[Deep Blue Water]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

What happened with the oil pan that requires replacing it, corrosion or impact damage? An oil pan, even an aluminum one can be repaired fairly easily

Seconded, unless the pan was crushed, steel or aluminum can be welded or in the worst of times, you can use JB Weld.

[Sutton Scnr 68]

I believe it was corrosion. I had left the boat for 2 months due to business requirements. When I returned I had water up to the oil pan and a bilge full of oil. The bilge pump had failed and the dripless packing seal was running a stream of water. I checked the dip stick on the engine and it was 2" above high level, but the oil wasn't milky so it didn't happen when the engine was running, but there were water droplets on the dip stick. After mucking out the oil and water the dip stick showed no oil. I was able to slow the dripless shaft seal with a new product called Seal or Sink or SOS. it is simply a neoprene sleeve with a zipper that you slide over your shaft seal, zip it and tighten up the 2 electrical zip ties on either end. This slowed the leak to a few drops per minute. enough for the new bilge pump to stay with it. We are in the St.Pete area and am having a hard time finding a boat yard to haul a 54' schooner, even with a semi emergency. I agree with welding it but it would require pulling the engine and the people I have talked to in this area don't want a long term project, they just want to do a quick haul (bottom job, fast cash) and get rid of you. Any ideas from the Tampa Bay people?

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by Sutton Scnr 68

I believe it was corrosion. I had left the boat for 2 months due to business requirements. When I returned I had water up to the oil pan and a bilge full of oil. The bilge pump had failed and the dripless packing seal was running a stream of water. I checked the dip stick on the engine and it was 2" above high level, but the oil wasn't milky so it didn't happen when the engine was running, but there were water droplets on the dip stick. After mucking out the oil and water the dip stick showed no oil. I was able to slow the dripless shaft seal with a new product called Seal or Sink or SOS. it is simply a neoprene sleeve with a zipper that you slide over your shaft seal, zip it and tighten up the 2 electrical zip ties on either end. This slowed the leak to a few drops per minute. enough for the new bilge pump to stay with it. We are in the St.Pete area and am having a hard time finding a boat yard to haul a 54' schooner, even with a semi emergency. I agree with welding it but it would require pulling the engine and the people I have talked to in this area don't want a long term project, they just want to do a quick haul (bottom job, fast cash) and get rid of you. Any ideas from the Tampa Bay people?

Thanks for the information, now I understand why the suggested new engine. Hopefully your engine isn’t too damaged by the salt water. It’s possible that the oil pan is ok and the water got in through the crankshaft seals or maybe the dip tube if it’s a short one.
Either way, it’s important to get the sump off and inspect the bottom end as soon as possible.... but I guess you already know that.
I like that “Seal or sink” product, ....nice work!

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Sutton Scnr 68

I believe it was corrosion. I had left the boat for 2 months due to business requirements. When I returned I had water up to the oil pan and a bilge full of oil. The bilge pump had failed and the dripless packing seal was running a stream of water. I checked the dip stick on the engine and it was 2" above high level, but the oil wasn't milky so it didn't happen when the engine was running, but there were water droplets on the dip stick. After mucking out the oil and water the dip stick showed no oil. I was able to slow the dripless shaft seal with a new product called Seal or Sink or SOS. it is simply a neoprene sleeve with a zipper that you slide over your shaft seal, zip it and tighten up the 2 electrical zip ties on either end. This slowed the leak to a few drops per minute. enough for the new bilge pump to stay with it. We are in the St.Pete area and am having a hard time finding a boat yard to haul a 54' schooner, even with a semi emergency. I agree with welding it but it would require pulling the engine and the people I have talked to in this area don't want a long term project, they just want to do a quick haul (bottom job, fast cash) and get rid of you. Any ideas from the Tampa Bay people?

I think you'd have to remove the pan either way.
Replacement seems to be the longer route as you now need to find one, remove the engine and replace the pan.
But if you...
Remove the engine, pull the pan and weld it up.
Unless it's severely pinholed.
In that case cut the bad out weld a patch, paint it and reinstall.
Since the engine would be out either way you'd also be better able to address the leaky "drip less" seal as well.
Easier.
IMHO
SV Cloud Duster

[skipperpete]

I’m just thinking about this oil level thing. For the level to be 2”over the high mark the bilge water must have been pretty damned high and should have drained out of the perforated oilpan as the bilge was emptied. Did the water get high enough to submerge the starter motor?

[Sutton Scnr 68]

The starter motor did get wet, but it only came to about 1/3 of the rear of the starter (it was just rebuilt) It was not totally submerged. The starter is a high mount but I don't see how oil could get into the oil pan through the starter housing, in most cases they are completely sealed from each other.