What is good switchboard wiring?

[GordMay]

[QUOTE=sinnerman;3866614]

Originally Posted by Hartleyg

... Interesting note: the "NEW" color code for the DC GROUND Negative wire is now YELLOW to prevent confusion with BLACK "Neutral" "Hot" wire in the boat's 120 volt AC system.
Duplex DC wires now are available in Red/yellow. (see below) ...

Nit Pick: #18 AWG [pictured] is not permitted. #16 is minimum wire size, with a few very restricted exceptions.

[coopec43]

[QUOTE=GordMay;3866855]

Originally Posted by sinnerman

Nit Pick: #18 AWG [pictured] is not permitted. #16 is minimum wire size, with a few very restricted exceptions.

OMG! 18 AWG is very, very light!

I think the lightest I gone (that I can remember) is about 12 AWG. I've always been guided by the AMPS/Distance charts.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by coopec43

He lives in a fishing town so it is quite possible he is qualified. But it is not a big deal as I only have 3 leads and I could replace them in a few hours.

But what about inverters? Are they certified for marine use? I'm about replace mine so I'll tread carefully.

Do not install battery chargers and inverters that are not Certified to UL458

Automotive or household units do not have auto switching for neutral/ground connection and many do not have AC DC isolation.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Do not install battery chargers and inverters that are not Certified to UL458

Automotive or household units do not have auto switching for neutral/ground connection and many do not have AC DC isolation.

That's exactly what I need UL458 ??? (OK I'll research that)


BUT "and many do not have AC DC isolation" Maybe this will explain it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxHCDs03UEg

Maybe this will help (I'll look at it in the morning)

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/ul...e-crafts.7954/

https://global.ihs.com/doc_detail.cfm?document_name=UL%20458&item_s_key=0 0097094

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Do not install battery chargers and inverters that are not Certified to UL458

Automotive or household units do not have auto switching for neutral/ground connection and many do not have AC DC isolation.

Good point!

Difference between UL458 [Marine] & UL 1741 [Land] ➥ https://www.sigineer.com/news/differ...wer-inverters/

The two UL standards differ mainly in two things. One is how they handle the grounding in AC system, the other is whether the battery charger is tested or not.

[Mal Reynolds]

Originally Posted by Calaban-Alleria

Butane soldering irons are available that can be fitted with curved vane for doing heat shrink. Much more controllable than those touches or a lighter and can be easier to sneak into a tight spot sometimes than a full size electric heat gun.

Great for when you don't have power as well - like when you have the power off while you work on it!

Yes, Butane torches are also helpful when dealing with wiring up the mast.

[GordMay]

Use of an open flame [micro torch] should only be done with control and caution.

Although the heat shrink tubing is designed to be flame retardant [per UL224], the wires themselves are not. Increased heat output can damage the tubing, if safety measures are not followed.
Some micro torches have a heat gun type diffuser tip, which works without an open flame.

The typical heat gun temperature, for heat shrink tubing is 90°C [194°F], but it depends on the specific heat shrink tubing material you’re using. Always check the manufacturer’s technical sheet, for the recommended heating temperature, before applying heat.

1: Use a yellow flame, for the best visuals.
2: Continue moving the flame around the tubing, or the tubing around the flame. Do not keep the heat you’re using in any one place for too long, or you’ll damage the wires, or scorch the tubing.
3: Begin shrinking at one end; and gradually work your way down to the other, to ensure that the tubing shrinks evenly, and without air bubbles. Follow the transition of the tubing, determining the speed, and avoiding air traps.

[VNCruzer]

Can anyone provide a RFID cable ties usage review on:

https://www.hellermanntyton.com/sg/c...ghlight-3#tab2

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Use of an open flame [micro torch] should only be done with control and caution.

Although the heat shrink tubing is designed to be flame retardant [per UL224], the wires themselves are not. Increased heat output can damage the tubing, if safety measures are not followed.
Some micro torches have a heat gun type diffuser tip, which works without an open flame.

The typical heat gun temperature, for heat shrink tubing is 90°C [194°F], but it depends on the specific heat shrink tubing material you’re using. Always check the manufacturer’s technical sheet, for the recommended heating temperature, before applying heat.

1: Use a yellow flame, for the best visuals.
2: Continue moving the flame around the tubing, or the tubing around the flame. Do not keep the heat you’re using in any one place for too long, or you’ll damage the wires, or scorch the tubing.
3: Begin shrinking at one end; and gradually work your way down to the other, to ensure that the tubing shrinks evenly, and without air bubbles. Follow the transition of the tubing, determining the speed, and avoiding air traps.

I prefer to use my electric heat gun. https://www.amazon.ca/Setting-Poratb...1zcF9hdGY&th=1

I also use it for these self soldering butt connectors that I've been using for quite a while now ...
https://www.amazon.ca/Kuject-Connect...073RMRCC3&th=1

[Putt-Putt]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

l]

I also use it for these self soldering butt connectors that I've been using for quite a while now ...
https://www.amazon.ca/Kuject-Connect...073RMRCC3&th=1

But do you do so on your boat?

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Putt-Putt

But do you do so on your boat?

Whose boat do you think I'm talking about ?

[Putt-Putt]

I don't know, that is why I asked.

You never said you were using them on any boat, just that you were using them for quite a while now.... Perhaps you use them on your vehicle, house, or drone.

So, should you be using them on your boat, for their intended purpose (a point that I think remains unanswered) that begs the question, are they ABCY compliant and if so, how?

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I'm sure my household extension leads are tinned. The plugs that go into the inverter are completely sealed. But what about the other end that plug into the HWS, microwave and galley power point?

I have had a household electrician (who sails a 32ft trimaran) check my set-up and he had no problems. I think I have to get my set-up certified by a qualified person anyway.

Thanks

Originally Posted by coopec43

He lives in a fishing town so it is quite possible he is qualified. But it is not a big deal as I only have 3 leads and I could replace them in a few hours.

But what about inverters? Are they certified for marine use? I'm about replace mine so I'll tread carefully.

Disclaimer - I am not a AC electrician - marine or otherwise! So check before taking this post as gospel.

AFAIK - in Australia - there is no requirement to have an inverter installation inspected or certified providing

1. there is no mains AC input into the inverter.
and
2. The output is not connected to any permanent wiring.

Permanent wiring is defined as any fixed cabling (fixed in any way at all). So a Bunning's unfixed extension cord is OK but if it is zipped-tied to anything , it is not OK etc.

Using an extension cord and connecting one end permanently to a HWS, microwave or galley power point is a big NO NO. Many land based electricians (in Oz anyway) have no idea what the RV requirements (they vary from state to state) and even fewer have any idea of boats.

These guys probably know more than most https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/about-us
They will design a custom system for a price that will be compliant and you can buy their book https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/sys...-documentation

There maybe other online sources that will point you in the right direction.

I am not affiliated with the above company but I have purchased some products from them.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Disclaimer - I am not a AC electrician - marine or otherwise! So check before taking this post as gospel.

AFAIK - in Australia - there is no requirement to have an inverter installation inspected or certified providing

1. there is no mains AC input into the inverter.
and
2. The output is not connected to any permanent wiring.

Permanent wiring is defined as any fixed cabling (fixed in any way at all). So a Bunning's unfixed extension cord is OK but if it is zipped-tied to anything , it is not OK etc.

Using an extension cord and connecting one end permanently to a HWS, microwave or galley power point is a big NO NO. Many land based electricians (in Oz anyway) have no idea what the RV requirements (they vary from state to state) and even fewer have any idea of boats.
.

Thank you for that Wotname.

I'll get the whole 240V cabling checked by a qualified person

Now, I'm using Bunnings extension cords plugged into the inverter. The microwave and HWS are plugged into the female plug on the extension cord. Would that be legal?

Presumably where I wired the extension cord to the galley power point that would be illegal in Australia.

I've earthed the inverter frame to the negative (earth strip/motor/prop-shaft). Is that OK?

Thanks for your advice.

[TeddyDiver]

Originally Posted by coopec43

snip...
I've earthed the inverter frame to the negative (earth strip/motor/prop-shaft). Is that OK?

Thanks for your advice.

No it's not ok. You should have it floating only to other AC devices and to fault current protection, RCD, RCCB or GFCI whatever they are called in your whereabouts.