What is needed to replace cabin sole?

[Brioche]

Sadly, parts of my cabin sole are showing some flaking off the top layer, so I thought I might buy some teak-faced plywood and use the old panels as patterns to cut out new sole boards. Two questions: 1) is there anything I should know about cutting this wood that would be different from sawing any other plywood? and 2) what treatment is best for the cut edges?
Thanks for any input.

[Pete7]

I think you will be in for a nasty shock when you price up good quality ply with a teak and holly veneer.

This is a sister yacht to ours and they have gone for a hard wearing vinyl surface that you might find in a hospital or work environment. We might be following suit in due course. We have a fake light grey wood pattern vinyl at home and its cushioned, hard wearing and looks good.

Pete

[Tupaia]

Assuming they are vertical cuts ie not angled edges then a 4inch circular saw, if they are straight cuts, or a jig saw if curved in anyway. Before marking the cut cover the cut line with masking tape, to prevent splintering of the upper surface during cutting.

If the shapes are not too curved and you are using a jigsaw use the original boards as guides by clamping them on top of the new ones and running against the edge with the shoe of the jigsaw not the blade, giving a smooth curve.

Pure Tung oil is a good finishing product, it is easy to apply although takes time as several coats are needed. It soaks into the exposed edges and forms a hard waterproof shell. Can also be used to finish the surface rather than varnish as it does not flake, leaves a satin finish and can be re-coated many times when it wears without the need to strip off.

Ancient Chinese mariners used it to seal the outside of their boats so very tough.

[Rumrace]

Teak cuts like several fussy woods. The number one tip is the same the tip of the saw blade should just just a few mm higher than the wood Blade cutting down will damage it, and burn the blade. I have faux teak on the exterior. It’s great. Edge bind the cut edges of plywood panels with epoxy

[Cheechako]

Not refinishable?
New sharp carbide blade.

[keepondancin]

If the panels that you are replacing are in good shape, and the edges are all verticle, you can trace the shape on the new panels, then rough cut with a jig saw staying an 1/8" to 1/4" outside the line. Lay the old panels back on the new material and clamp them together. Use a router with a template bit, which is a verticle cut bit, with a pilot bearing at the top of the bit. The bearing runs along the template, (old floor panel) and cuts the good material flush with the template, giving you an exact duplicate piece. Taping where the cut will be isn't a bad idea, it certainly could help eliminate chipping. Don't scimp on the quality of the plywood replacement. It wouldn't hurt to epoxy the edge and bottom surface of the plywood, do your research on what finish you want on the good surface, many things to take into account, including slip resistant.

[goboatingnow]

I’ve done it by two methods , one is 12mm teak and holly , clamped to the old piece and then use a trimmer router to trim the new piece ,

The second is now my preferred approach , assuming the old substrate is in good order I use 4mm teak and holly , epoxied down on the existing substrate and then trimmed by router

[Brioche]

Thanks for the input. I think I will try a first cut with saw leaving a little edge; if it looks OK I will continue with saw, and if not will cut a little larger and finish with router.

[Bowdrie]

If you have to do jigsaw work, place the old piece face down on the back side of the new panel.
Jigsaws cut on the up stroke and in so doing the chance of messing up the new part is diminished.
Use a new/sharp/fine>medium blade.
Go slow, take your time.
You really want to avoid the "traveling splinter" situation.
Also, this way avoids any force from the blade trying to separate the face veneer from its substrate.
Cutting a bit oversize and finishing with a router is
Oh, make sure you line-up the "holly lines" the way you want.
You really don't want any joints/hatch openings in the panels to be offset from the adjoining work.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Brioche

Thanks for the input. I think I will try a first cut with saw leaving a little edge; if it looks OK I will continue with saw, and if not will cut a little larger and finish with router.

You may find the panels have bevelled edges