what is this weird fuse on my windlass

[Brann-]

Originally Posted by Wotname

If that is correct and if your existing relay is in good working order, I am sure it will be a satisfactory arrangement.

[...]
The current draw will be significantly lower and the voltage rating for the relay is insignificant when going from 12 to 24 Volts. The manufacturer only states it is a 12V relay and expects it to be used for their 12V windlass so no other ratings need be given. An off the shelf similar commercial relay would probably be rated for at least 120 VAC and maybe 400VDC.

You are correct in your assumptions. I'm not sure my relay is in "good working order". It certainly shows no signs of wear from the outside, and never caused me any problem so far.

I'm glad to hear that bumping up the voltage from 12v to 24v without drastically increasing the overall power is not likely to cause any problem with the kind of relay I've in place (although I understand there's no way to be 100% certain without the actual specs)

The issue of the anti arcing device mentioned at the beginning of this thread still stands, though. Precisely, I'm wondering whether the new relay coming with the windlass might have such a mechanism built-in, while the old currently in place relay doesn't, hence the need for outside flyback capacitors. In that case, I might need to replace the old mechanism that burned ?

In your experience, are flyback diodes or capacitors typically found in relays ? (And again, I understand that there's no definite answer to that question)

Thanks a lot !
Brann

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Brann-

You are correct in your assumptions. I'm not sure my relay is in "good working order". It certainly shows no signs of wear from the outside, and never caused me any problem so far.

...................


The issue of the anti arcing device mentioned at the beginning of this thread still stands, though. Precisely, I'm wondering whether the new relay coming with the windlass might have such a mechanism built-in, while the old currently in place relay doesn't, hence the need for outside flyback capacitors. In that case, I might need to replace the old mechanism that burned ?

In your experience, are flyback diodes or capacitors typically found in relays ? (And again, I understand that there's no definite answer to that question)

Thanks a lot !
Brann

Sounds like the relay is in "good working order", there is no evidence that it isn't.

Maybe Lewmar can tell you if there is any build in protection in the new unit but my gut feeling is "no, there isn't".

Diodes and capacitors are rarely (if ever) fitted across contacts of commercial off the shelf relays at the point of manufacture. Special purpose relays might have them but I haven't seen this in practice. Normally any requirement for such would be added externally by the designer of the system in question.

Diodes are often fitted across the coil of relays but this isn't the issue here.

I will try to contact the tech. guys at the local big windlass manufacturer (Muir) and ask them what they do. Might be a few days before I get an answer.

[Brann-]

Originally Posted by Wotname

I will try to contact the tech. guys at the local big windlass manufacturer (Muir) and ask them what they do. Might be a few days before I get an answer.

Thanks a lot !
The new windlass is a Lofrans Tigre 24v/1500W btw.

Brann

[SV Bacchus]

Originally Posted by Brann-

Well, that was the initial opinion of many people indeed, but since then I believe it has been established that this was a perfectly reasonable way of mitigating arcing issues.

I see that now. I was acting on the advice that it was possibly installed wrong.

You've gotten much good advice since then, carry on!

[kazo]

Originally Posted by Brann-

I understand this. But since I've replaced my former 12v windlass by a 24v model of similar power (1500W), the current should be approximately halved, and the old relay should cope effortlessly, shouldn't it ?

if it was rated correctly the 1st time you can now run two 24V/1500W motors through it

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Brann-

..............

The issue of the anti arcing device mentioned at the beginning of this thread still stands, though. Precisely, I'm wondering whether the new relay coming with the windlass might have such a mechanism built-in, while the old currently in place relay doesn't, hence the need for outside flyback capacitors. In that case, I might need to replace the old mechanism that burned ?
...........

Thanks a lot !
Brann

After thinking more about this aspect overnight, the anti-arcing issue is probably a red herring.

While I'm not an expert of motor design, I don't recall many DC motors ever having such items fitted as a standard design. I thinking of starter motors on boats, cars, aircraft, stationery engines etc) and simple pump motors etc. None of these have such "protection".
Compressor motors might be different...

They might have been fitted by a PO to decrease RFI but who knows if it worked on not. Clearly hadn't been working for some time going by the pictures posted. On perhaps the PO was trying to protect some issue that didn't exist!

I will ask around some folk who really should know (as promised earlier).

[Jim Cate]

They might have been fitted by a PO to decrease RFI but who knows if it worked on not. Clearly hadn't been working for some time going by the pictures posted. On perhaps the PO was trying to protect some issue that didn't exist!

Wotie, considering that the windlass runs only for very short times, times not usually coincident with radio operations, the reduction of RFI does not seem a likely raison d'etre for the "device".

My somewhat cynical guess is that it was done by a misinformed person who did not do the research here on CF before installation. As pointed out, it does not seem to have been replaced when it toasted and let the smoke out, so apparently not essential to operation.

For the OP: Wottie's advice is spot on IMO.

Jim

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Wotie, considering that the windlass runs only for very short times, times not usually coincident with radio operations, the reduction of RFI does not seem a likely raison d'etre for the "device".

Ahh... very true Jim. You once again bring the voice of experience to the table

My somewhat cynical guess is that it was done by a misinformed person who did not do the research here on CF before installation. As pointed out, it does not seem to have been replaced when it toasted and let the smoke out, so apparently not essential to operation.

^^ Again I gotta agree

For the OP: Wottie's advice is spot on IMO.

Jim

Thanks for the vote of confidence Jim!