What to do about this nonskid?

[Ryban]

We have molded non-skid on our Westsail. However, these areas are starting show wear and black is poking through in large areas. I'm not sure how the non-skid is created, but perhaps it is a structure that is bonded to the deck, rather than molded into the deck. I do think it's gelcoat over the top.

Though the gelcoat on the boat is not as bright as it once was, I still mostly want to hold onto it as much as I can, as I much prefer dull gelcoat to paint that will inevitably need to be replaced, and will be prone to scratching and chipping. If there's a way I can simply apply a new coat of gelcoat over the non-skid areas, that would maybe be ideal -- but I also know that's not really how gelcoat works, and so I may be willing to compromise and paint the non-skid areas.

[Pete7]

I wouldn't be worried about applying paint to just the none slip areas.

I always use Internationals deck paint on the dive rib as it gives a smooth none slip surface that is also comfortable to walk on in bare feet. At the end of the season any scratches from weight belts or dive cylinders would be touched up and since the colour didn't fade, matched perfectly.

However, its all about the preparation and I would scrub clean the deck 3 times to ensure a good permanent bond. Skip this stage and it may chip or peel.

Don't paint the whole deck, just mask off the none slip and do those bits.

Pete

[neilpride]

You can apply gelcoat with a spray gun, I think the hard part is going to be getting the color right, if you want to keep that tone, otherwise you can paint it white, the trick here is the preparation, mask the contours, and I would use a soft metal brush to abrade the diamond pattern a little and get grip, clean up very well, spray a first flash coat, wait a few minutes and shoot another flash coat, third coat with a wet coat.

A primer gun works, dilute the gel with styrene, don't let the gel dry in the gun, lots of acetone on the hand.

If you don't want to complicate it with a spray gun, use a roller.

Let it dry for a day and do not step on it until the next day.

[MicHughV]

You can buy specially formulated grit for non-skid...looks almost line grains of sand, but it's not.
Put down a layer of paint, sprinkle this non-skid over it, add another coat of paint.
It leaves a very gritty non-skid surface.
Most marine stores carry it.

I would re-paint only the non-skid areas, leave the rest alone. I'd use a one part polyurethane color of your choice. I did a similar job and used a regular paint brush.

[Secondshift]

On the surface prep a scouring cleanser can be used to clean and abrade the

textured area. I've been using Barkeepers friend liquid. It has a small

amount of oxalic acid also found in hull cleaner.


I've done smaller sections of non skid with gelcoat and color matching is

pretty tough but the cured color is the same as the wet which helps.

So I try to mix more than I need to avoid repeating the process.

It can also be stored for future use.



I usually spray a mold release over final gelcoat to improve the cure.


I've also used two part paint from Interlux with a flattener added in.

The flattener costs as much as the paint.


Molded non skid gets it grab from the texture so unless the surface is worn flat

I wouldn't add grit.


I also wouldn't hesitate to hire a professional if it's too overwhelming


Best of luck with it.

[gonesail]

interlux makes a product called interdeck. already has the non skid in it. i imagine you could easily prep your deck and roll some of this on. you would not need to do it all at the same time.

[Secondshift]

I remember watching a professional boat repairman

during an major impact repair.

(Operator ran a pile into the deck)


He used a flexible non skid mold to resurface the deck area.

Meticulously aligned with the surrounding area.

Uncertain who manufactured the mold material but he said it was

ordered specifically to match .

When he was finished it was like it never happened.



Best Regards

[Madehn]

Use Kiwi Grip. Easy to put on. Very easy prep. Water cleanup. You control the texture. Many colors available. Mask off roll on. Remove mask let dry. You will be amazed at how easy it is. Easy to repair if ever damaged. No connection just a very satisfied user. Good luck.

[JPA Cate]

....And, get yourself some PolyGlo for the gelcoat. It really will improve the appearance; and it is not expensive. It will not restore the parts of the non-skid where the black shows. Just use it on the topsides and the areas around the non-skid. As to paint, the masking takes for bloody ever, and has to be done as if you had OCD, but then painting with automotive LPU will give you a very durable finish. I'm basing this recommendation on our success with automotive LPU on our topsides, which were sprayed, and still shiny, now 15 yrs. later.

Ann

[Ryban]

Thanks all -- I'll probably go with a two-part paint and just tackle these one by one. I will be doing a bunch of gelcoat repairs elsewhere on the boat though for stress cracks, and will practice my color matching there.

Just to be clear -- the non-skid structure itself is in good shape, it's just lost its color/gelcoat. Not looking to replace the non-skid with something else.

This video by Boatworks Today is quite useful though if you ever need to repair damaged molded non-skid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eZLorXTNys