what to use for rudder stock bearing

[sv.antea]

I am about to do a major haul out and plan to drop the rudder and fix anything that needs attention in that department. When I bought my Yankee 30 in 1980, it was only 6 years old, but the rudder already needed to be replaced. Which I did, built it using 316 SS stock, made a monel heel bearing insert for the bottom (mid skeg) to take up the play there, but don't remember what material or arangement was there where the rudders stock passes throught the hull. If I were to upgrade that bearing, would a cutless bearing make sense? The easiest for me would be to lay up (wind) some epoxy/fabric sleave and glass it in. But what material? Not fiberglass of course, someting non-abrasive, low friction, long-wearing, non-swelling when perpetually wet. Any additives available for epoxy to make a good underwater bearing for a stainless shaft? (Graphite is probably out for reason of electrolysis.) Or have a sleeve machined from something? Phenolic reinforced fabric? Only the best for my boat, don't want to have to go back there later.
My previous, smaller sailboat had a spiral white nylon sleeve that miraculously stayed put for years. A larger versin of the nylon bushings used for the engine control lever shafts on Edson pedestals.

[Jim Cate]

We encountered a steel yacht some years ago that used a cutless bearing in that application. It had shown zero wear over a number of years (now forgotten) and he was quite happy with it. Seems a practical and useful idea to me!

Getting the alignment spot on and the clearances correct are both important in reducing friction, no matter what bearing material is used... and a very low friction helm is a joy to steer! Many of the plastic bearing materials do slowly absorb water and then swell up a bit. When enclosed in a rigid tube, the internal diameter is reduced and the shaft is seized over time. Had that on our previous boat and it required reaming out every few years. PITA!

Jim

PS I never dropped the rudder on my Y-30 so can't help with historical data.

[sv.antea]

Thanks Jim, that was a good and ecouraging reply to my question, and wow, so you had a Y30?
Alignment should be no problem, once the rudder is in the updated heel bearing on the bottom and the bronze bushinng long ago glassed in at the top (through the cockpit seat), the cutless will self-align as it is being gently glassed in. Yes, my original installation lasted almost 40 years, almost frictionless and no play. Tiller steered, always easy on the autopilot.

[Compass790]

Vesconite hi-lube should work good as it has been used as a cutlass bearing.
Google it as I dont know USA suppliers

[coopec43]

When I did mine I had to get my bearing from an overseas supplier in the USA and Duramax sounds familiar.

https://www.google.com/search?q=rudd..._AUoAnoECAEQAg

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by sv.antea

Thanks Jim, that was a good and ecouraging reply to my question, and wow, so you had a Y30?
Alignment should be no problem, once the rudder is in the updated heel bearing on the bottom and the bronze bushinng long ago glassed in at the top (through the cockpit seat), the cutless will self-align as it is being gently glassed in. Yes, my original installation lasted almost 40 years, almost frictionless and no play. Tiller steered, always easy on the autopilot.

Oh yeah, I had Dominique, hull number 123. Wonderful boat... did years of crewed and single handed racing out of SF, several trips down to SoCal, and Ann and I did our first offshore voyage to Hawaii and back in her. A very well mannered boat, and fairly easy to sail to her ratings. I have a very soft spot in my heart for S&S designs of that era.

Enjoy yours!

Jim

[RaymondR]

High density polyethylene (black poly) is a good material for applications where heat buildup is not a consideration. Readily available, cheap, durable, low friction, does not take up water and swell.

[Andreas W]

Originally Posted by Compass790

Vesconite hi-lube should work good as it has been used as a cutlass bearing.
Google it as I dont know USA suppliers

I used Vesconite for both the rudder stock and the cutlass bearings. Excellent material for this.

[thudbranch]

As a retired engineer and having designed large moving structures such as ferry gangplanks and also lots of food machinery that is washed down several times a day, I learned about bearings for water service. Bearings are readily available through local bearing/ industrial part supply houses generally much cheaper than a marine supply source. IGUS brand makes versions specially for SS shafts under water. Another generic material is PEEK which several suppliers manufacture- specifically versions for stainless steel shafting. Still other brands making water service bearings to look at are ORKOT, Rulon, and Kamatics. Depending on shaft size, flange requirements, design details, price and availability, any of these will do a great job. Any of these should provide lower friction and last longer than than bronze. Any should last much longer and carry higher unit loads (lbs/sq. inch) than ultra high density or ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHD or UHMW). And there is no electrolysis to worry about.

[Georgieboy]

Delrin, made by DuPont, can easily be machined, absorbs<1% water, thus does barely expand. Used on both my tiller bearings, after 10 years no noticeable wear. Fitted to steel trough tube upper and lower.
Good luck

[davenrino]

I just installed a new rudder and log from Finco in California. They used Delrin for bushings.

[Sailmonkey]

I’ll second Delrin for rudder bearings. Acetal is the generic name for delrin.

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by Georgieboy

Delrin, made by DuPont, can easily be machined, absorbs<1% water, thus does barely expand. Used on both my tiller bearings, after 10 years no noticeable wear. Fitted to steel trough tube upper and lower.
Good luck

This is the main thing to worry about, especially if you make the bushing a tight fit. Vesconite is very good for this, I have some 35mm ID x 65mm OD and might be persuaded to mail you an inch or two if that'll work.

Delrin or UHMW are good choices as well, nylon not so much...

[sv.antea]

Great, mine is #96, but insanely updated. Working on some more of my crazy updates right now. Sailed her twice to Europe, as far as Oslo the first time and Turkey the second.
Raced her a lot, with good results, recently often singlehanded. Exactly, very well behaved even in wild conditions, and a witch in light air ( I use some large sails.)

[Chotu]

I built Delrin rudder bushings about six years ago now? They work perfectly. Never even give them a second thought.