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jbinbi · 17-06-2024, 12:55

My boat comes in a 2 or 3 cabin config, the 3 cabin has a second aft cabin. I have the 2 cabin, and therefore where there would be a 3d cabin is a very large locker accessible either thru the cockpit locker or via a door/hatch in the head.

I want to put a portable electric cooler in there, my boat has no freezer, so I would like to make this into a small freezer, I am looking at one of the 20qt sized coolers.

The inside of this locker on the hull side side is painted grp, see pic. My thought was to put a few blocks of wood say 1" thick by 2" sq on the hull on each side of the cooler and then just put eyepads on the wood, and tie some line around the cooler to the eyepads to keep the cooler from moving. Where the cooler sits on the locker floor, i will probably put some wood strips around the base to keep it in place, but when the boat heels/bounces etc., I need something around to the cooler to keep in in place.

What is the best epoxy to secure the wood to the hull. I know 5200 would work, but I would rather not use something that perm? Also, just need a very small amount for these pieces. Thanks.

**Jammer** · 17-06-2024, 14:09

I would suggest Devcon Plastic Welder. It's the consumer branding for a methacrylic adhesive that's quite good for that sort of use, and comes in a convenient syringe type dispenser.

You could also look at adhesive mount studs instead of wood blocks. They are available from several sources including McMaster-Carr. I use them with Devcon Plastic Welder to attach things to the inside of the hull, like electronics or cable or tubing or hose clamps:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/ad...e-ready-studs/

Benz · 17-06-2024, 14:20

You can get a tube of pre-thickened epoxy paste from Jamestown Distributors called "Thixo," It comes with a mixing spout, so you just put it in a caulking gun and squeeze.

wholybee · 17-06-2024, 17:07

Any epoxy will be more permanent than 5200. But whatever you use, I think the important thing is the prep. You will need to remove the paint and sand or grind the fiberglass surface slightly. Otherwise, a wide range of adhesives will work just fine.

I always have west systems on hand, so that is what I would use.

**Madehn** · 18-06-2024, 09:36

i have done this same thing in several areas and to be honest 5200 works better than epoxy-- remove with a hot wire or with very careful use of a oscillating saw. another way to remove is with a putty knife heated with a torch-- really not a big deal and works well. For my usage, i used a piece of 1x4 that i had routered the edges, stained and glued that to the hull-- about 16 inches long. i then screwed whatever i wanted into the 1x4 -- the large area of the board gave plenty of holding power-- never had a problem-- the 5200 worked better than epoxy as it filled the contours of the hull better- i guess you could use thickened epoxy as well. if you use 5200 let it set up for a few days to ensure a good bond before putting a load on it. best of luck

Cheechako · 18-06-2024, 09:57

5200 .........if you can hold it securely in place a couple days works very well. Too well. If any of that is cored you can screw the wood in place while the 5200 sets up.

I put a piece of teak trim on with 5200 at the top of the entry to a quarterberth on a boat I built . It was roughly 3/4" thick by 3" wide and 2-3 feet long. Maybe 1-1.5" contacted the glass with 5200. No way to screw it as non cored area. A couple months later I decided to do something different and tried to remove that teak. It took some of the Gel coat off with it!

If you use epoxy, you need to rough up the area a lot, make it almost fuzzy with 60-80 grit or it may come right off.

MicHughV · 18-06-2024, 10:15

I'm a big fan of WEST EPOXY. It can...and will.....stick anything to anything.

You can buy it in small sachets for small jobs. On a hot day, it will set up within minutes.

5200 is also great, but needs several days to cure...even their "fast cure" variant is not fast enough...

jbinbi · 18-06-2024, 10:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madehn

i have done this same thing in several areas and to be honest 5200 works better than epoxy-- remove with a hot wire or with very careful use of a oscillating saw. another way to remove is with a putty knife heated with a torch-- really not a big deal and works well. For my usage, i used a piece of 1x4 that i had routered the edges, stained and glued that to the hull-- about 16 inches long. i then screwed whatever i wanted into the 1x4 -- the large area of the board gave plenty of holding power-- never had a problem-- the 5200 worked better than epoxy as it filled the contours of the hull better- i guess you could use thickened epoxy as well. if you use 5200 let it set up for a few days to ensure a good bond before putting a load on it. best of luck

Thanks. Was originally thinking of using 4200 as it is supposed to be removable. Thoughts on 42 vs 52?

Thomas1985 · 18-06-2024, 11:14

I always use West Systems

Go with silica thickener if you want the finished product to be white.

The wood flour will make it brown.

Cheechako · 18-06-2024, 11:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbinbi

Thanks. Was originally thinking of using 4200 as it is supposed to be removable. Thoughts on 42 vs 52?

NO to 4200, not near the same. Also stay away from fast cure 5200. Neither are near as good as the original.

Bowdrie · 18-06-2024, 16:21

Over time with vertical loads 5200 can "creep".
It's a remarkable adhesive but it is flexible after all.

wholybee · 18-06-2024, 21:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbinbi

Thanks. Was originally thinking of using 4200 as it is supposed to be removable. Thoughts on 42 vs 52?

4200 isn't meant to be an adhesive, it is more of a sealant. 4200 goes where screws or bolts hold the parts together, and you just need a seal.

5200 isn't as permanent as rumor has it. Epoxy and fiberglass is permanent, it becomes part of the structure. 5200 is a glue which is tough and long lasting, but can absolutely be removed. It can also fail, and leave you with parts that fell off.