When are cracked bulkheads OK/repairable?

[WoodFamSkipper]

So I'm trying to get the family back out for a second attempt at sailing adventures.
Tried in 2017, but lost our Beneteau to Hurricane Irma, got stuck in the UK, for 6 months, while sorting out the insurance claim – not so fun.

Back in the market now for a boat and recently had a “Prout Quasar 50” surveyed in Florida
Surveyor was not familiar with the boats design or build, had never seen one before, and was perplexed to try and find reason for some odd behaviour with moisture detecting and phenolic hammer tests

Aside from high moisture readings in lots of the hull areas - both above the hull-to-deck seam and below it, there was a really long and substantially wide crack in a bulkhead that formed a part of the main salon connection to canoes.
Surveyor mentioned "8 inch ply batten, pilot holes drilled to glue and screw"

Hope we can post videos here - video shows the height and width of the crack - link in OneDrive share = https://1drv.ms/v/s!AjoHbO2YJitmg5VCQk1rk0_WvAZXLg

I also put together a PDF of moisture readings from above waterline, but inside hulls, ensuring I used the Trammex to measure GRP and avoided the wood framing for most tests = https://1drv.ms/b/s!AjoHbO2YJitmg5hm0-VF10ZsnZ-JVg
I'm wondering if saturated gelcoat or fibreglass could be giving the elevated readings. Can't just bank on it being soggy gelcoat though - has anyone else had porous fibreglass take in water to it?

[Orion Jim]

Just run away....

[Gin-N-Sonic]

I know exactly what to do, walk away. There's more moisture there than boat. The recovery process of a boat in this condition is neither guaranteed nor is it a sane undertaking.

[Thorntonite]

Originally Posted by Gin-N-Sonic

I know exactly what to do, walk away. There's more moisture there than boat. The recovery process of a boat in this condition is neither guaranteed nor is it a sane undertaking.

I’m trying to wrap my head around the likelihood of moisture in the fibreglass.
Have a nagging doubt that something in the build material or recent paint (hull paint not bottom paint) might be doing the conducting of electric signal
Hull paint is inconsistent and readings are all over the place too
🤯[emoji174]

[Gin-N-Sonic]

Originally Posted by Thorntonite

I’m trying to wrap my head around the likelihood of moisture in the fibreglass.
Have a nagging doubt that something in the build material or recent paint (hull paint not bottom paint) might be doing the conducting of electric signal
Hull paint is inconsistent and readings are all over the place too
🤯[emoji174]

Out of experience, I'm willing to wager that I am about 80%+ sure of what you have.

Cured fiberglass, does not absorb water readily, however, if there is a constant stress area where the forces are no longer distributed evenly, start to flex, cracks instantly develop in the epoxy, this exposes dry areas, pretty much osmosis.

What you have is a boat that probably took a hit or a fast capsize or near capsize, boat was probably near overloaded. This caused the only one thing that can bring a darn good cat down, that lovely twisting load. Most boats can handle this, however considering the fact that you are seeing this damage at a bulkhead, it is pretty evident that the hull has been subjected to loads and forces far beyond it's designed capacity.

Ok now you have badly beaten boat, not bad, someone as insane as I am, will work on it, but I am willing to bet they left her in the water eh?

This is the point where saltwater is on each of those little crevices, 24/7, maybe 365 days, if there is ice, it will cause further fissures, reach into the wood. Over time, some fiber strands will fray and absorb water, if there is delam, then water is going to find it's way through layers, now the surface area exposed to the moisture is quite large so areas of the hull don't need to be water absorbent per se.

Even if go the insanity route, the only way you're going to be able to make an actually true assessment would be to first dry that hull out, and that's a LOT of time and money on a 50/50 situation.

If for some reason, you went head over heels and have purchased SV Osmosis, the best thing to do is keep her hauled out first, then get an NDT test done on it, they will be able to tell you exactly what you're looking at.

I highly doubt it would be resin or epoxy or even hull paint that is setting off the readings because even exposed resin will create a skin and harden in 24 hrs. I think you're looking at shoddy osmosis repairs being covered up.

[barnakiel]

The bulkhead looks repairable MUCH AS I do not like that it had been PAINTED.


Is this a wood bulkhead? If so, then painting could have been done to cover overall poor condition of the wood. Still, repairable. Cut out, replace, etc. A job yes but doable yes.


What I do not like is what you say about the moisture readings. Of course this may be just the gelcoat but how do you want to know this without removing the gelcoat? Doh.


I would be cautious, just like a number of posters above me.


BTW Are you still in the UK? If so, why not buy a boat locally? UK, Med, Canary Islands ...


There is a very nice Moody 376 for grabs here. Or are you fixed on a cat?


Cheers,
b.

[boatbroke]

Hi WoodFam,

The notes from the surveyor indicate that the core may be water logged from what I am reading. This is quiet the job to remove one of the skins (outside or inside) then glue in new core and re-laminate. Particular concern around the forward structural beam which is extreamely important.

The cracked bulkhead is a definite concern too. As it is attached to a chain plate this is indicating the load transfer issues.

The chain plate is designed to put loads into the bulkhead which in-turn transfers the load into the hull, and all pulls evenly.

It can all be repaired, but in doing so make sure the bonding to the hull (and deck) is adequate. Most of the time it can be as simple as 2/3 layers of Double Bias, 100mm on the hull, 100mm on the bulkhead.

It all looks like a project mate.

Good luck!

[Thorntonite]

Originally Posted by Gin-N-Sonic

What you have is a boat that probably took a hit or a fast capsize or near capsize, boat was probably near overloaded. This caused the only one thing that can bring a darn good cat down, that lovely twisting load. Most boats can handle this, however considering the fact that you are seeing this damage at a bulkhead, it is pretty evident that the hull has been subjected to loads and forces far beyond it's designed capacity.

Ok now you have badly beaten boat, not bad, someone as insane as I am, will work on it, but I am willing to bet they left her in the water eh?

This is the point where saltwater is on each of those little crevices, 24/7, maybe 365 days, if there is ice, it will cause further fissures, reach into the wood. Over time, some fiber strands will fray and absorb water, if there is delam, then water is going to find it's way through layers, now the surface area exposed to the moisture is quite large so areas of the hull don't need to be water absorbent per se.

I think you've hit the nail on the head with that section of your last reply.
The Captain told me that the boat was at times really strained in it's usage at the request of the owners. To the tune of completely ripping the genoa sheet block out of and with chunks of the port stern mounts.
The heavily laden weight-load and flexing under heavy strains seems to add up as the culprit for the symptoms and intrusion of water makes a whole lot of sense to me now.

Thank you for your sanity here - it's much appreciated!

[roland stockham]

Wondering if she sank after hurricane damage? Sound like this would have to be priced as a salvage job to make any sense and then only if you can do the work yourself and don't mind the time involved.

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by Orion Jim

Just run away....

fast like a speedy bunny

[Scaramanga F25]

The Quasar 50 is a huge and comfortable vessel. Everything can be repaired with the boat leveled under a covered shed. Do you have the knowledge, experience, youthfull energy and knowhow to do it your self over a period of 1000 hours. Not a prohibitive cost if that is all that is in need of repair...engines, rigging etc...etc
If cannot do it yourself as mentioned above to bad. Desireable boat in my opinion.

[guyrj33]

This o e is easy.
No, cracked bulkheads, blisters and moisture are not OK.

[Whosails]

I once spent a year and a half drying a boat which I had sent to Virginia. In the end we had to drape it and cook it with three propane heaters. Then the grinding of blisters and relaying of fiberglass. That boat was only 26 feet on the waterline.

[Gin-N-Sonic]

Originally Posted by Thorntonite

I think you've hit the nail on the head with that section of your last reply.
The Captain told me that the boat was at times really strained in it's usage at the request of the owners. To the tune of completely ripping the genoa sheet block out of and with chunks of the port stern mounts.
The heavily laden weight-load and flexing under heavy strains seems to add up as the culprit for the symptoms and intrusion of water makes a whole lot of sense to me now.

Thank you for your sanity here - it's much appreciated!

It's a shame really, a good hull can last a lifetime if treated well.

You're most welcome, I hope you find your dream boat she's out there, will need some work, but will be worth it. Shoot me a PM anytime if you feel like venting or anything, I pretty much talk boats and composites 24/7.

Cheers!

[bstreep]

I just jump in and echo what was said above. We JUST got our Hurricane Harvey boat thru survey - almost 2 years. Ours was mostly cosmetic. But a friend's Oyster, not so much. Because of the beating it took against the pier, the hull was repeatedly flexed. And the core of that side of the hull got wet. THAT is a problem. You end up having to remove the core - your choice of ways. And that's not easy, inexpensive. Bulkheads, on the other hand, are way, WAY easier.