When to recore the deck and options?

[Hillbillybuddha]

I am pulling all the stanchions and deck hardware, preparing to paint and re-bed. I have zero soft spots on my deck and was starting to wonder if my decks were even cored. (1964 Pearson Rhodes 41... They are) Shining a light down those little screw holes didn't show any evidence of a wood core or rot, just bedding compound and some rust. But then I pulled a swivle cleat that left a big enough hole to get a good look. There's about 3/8 inch of top fiberglass, about 1/2 inch of core and another layer of glass. Even with the rot cleaned out as far back as I can get it (2 or 3 inches) I still have no flex or sponginess to the deck. Still feels solid as a rock.

Should I replace the core? Probably. But what about the rest of the deck? The whole thing could be rotted and I'd never know. If I hadn't pulled this cleat, I still wouldn't know.

If I had more time at this marina, I'd probably just replace it. (I still might) But I have to leave by Oct 15th and I'm also in the middle of a full electrical refit, so I doubt I'll have time for both. But I suppose, if push came to shove, I could finish the electrical at anchor, if I get the nav lights wired before I leave.

So I'm not asking what I SHOULD do, but, I guess, what would you do?

[Hillbillybuddha]

I'm wondering if drill and fill with penetrating epoxy might be the answer for now.

[rslifkin]

Realistically, if the deck isn't soft, I'd open up around any suspect fittings, clean out whatever bad core you can, get the deck good and warm to try to drive out as much moisture as you can, then fill around the screw holes. Assess and repair other areas later when you can.

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by Hillbillybuddha

I am pulling all the stanchions and deck hardware, preparing to paint and re-bed. I have zero soft spots on my deck and was starting to wonder if my decks were even cored. (1964 Pearson Rhodes 41... They are) Shining a light down those little screw holes didn't show any evidence of a wood core or rot, just bedding compound and some rust. But then I pulled a swivle cleat that left a big enough hole to get a good look. There's about 3/8 inch of top fiberglass, about 1/2 inch of core and another layer of glass. Even with the rot cleaned out as far back as I can get it (2 or 3 inches) I still have no flex or sponginess to the deck. Still feels solid as a rock.

Should I replace the core? Probably. But what about the rest of the deck? The whole thing could be rotted and I'd never know. If I hadn't pulled this cleat, I still wouldn't know.

If I had more time at this marina, I'd probably just replace it. (I still might) But I have to leave by Oct 15th and I'm also in the middle of a full electrical refit, so I doubt I'll have time for both. But I suppose, if push came to shove, I could finish the electrical at anchor, if I get the nav lights wired before I leave.

So I'm not asking what I SHOULD do, but, I guess, what would you do?

In the first place you need to tap the deck with a small hammer like a surveyor does (or hire a surveyor). You can tell a sharp tap from a dull thud. The thuds are where the deck is soft.

You can open up an elongated hole and fill with epoxy (tape the bottom or it will drain into the cabin) then redrill. But if it is a loaded fitting a better repair can be done. (<Wingssail Images-Cruising Photos from Around the Pacific>). I recently did another small area and completed it in three days (ready for painting).

If you have textured deck for non skid it becomes much harder to do. When finishing you have to put in some epoxy with filler and carefully sculpt the non-skid texture. In Columbia I saw some workers there extend a boat deck on a Nordhaven and they matched the cross hatching so perfectly you could not see the joint.

[Flatswing]

1964 boat, not teak deck , no soft spots, don’t overthink thisbunless u r planning a “stem to Gideon” refit/rebuild. reef out as much as you can, fill with epoxy (personally I would use thickened or you may be raining penetrating epoxy down below). Drill & remount deck hardware.
Thixo is an cartridge format - more expensive but super convenient way to fill also.
Good for another 50 yrs
Go sail

[Benz]

If it hasn't rotted yet, and you don't cut new holes to let water in, chances are it won't rot. Just be careful of drilling new holes.

[MJH]

Originally Posted by Hillbillybuddha

I am pulling all the stanchions and deck hardware, preparing to paint and re-bed. I have zero soft spots on my deck and was starting to wonder if my decks were even cored. (1964 Pearson Rhodes 41... They are) Shining a light down those little screw holes didn't show any evidence of a wood core or rot, just bedding compound and some rust. But then I pulled a swivle cleat that left a big enough hole to get a good look. There's about 3/8 inch of top fiberglass, about 1/2 inch of core and another layer of glass. Even with the rot cleaned out as far back as I can get it (2 or 3 inches) I still have no flex or sponginess to the deck. Still feels solid as a rock.

Should I replace the core? Probably. But what about the rest of the deck? The whole thing could be rotted and I'd never know. If I hadn't pulled this cleat, I still wouldn't know.

If I had more time at this marina, I'd probably just replace it. (I still might) But I have to leave by Oct 15th and I'm also in the middle of a full electrical refit, so I doubt I'll have time for both. But I suppose, if push came to shove, I could finish the electrical at anchor, if I get the nav lights wired before I leave.

So I'm not asking what I SHOULD do, but, I guess, what would you do?

Given your deadline of October 15 I would say don't get into this new project as projects have a bad habit of expanding at the most inopportune times. Finish what you have started and get back into the water. Then spend some time until the next haul out planning how you will attack this new one and do it right.

Good Luck.

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ MJH

[Cheechako]

I would just leave it. It can become a nightmare recoring and your deck is 3/8" thick! Once you open that can of worms you could be working a long time and making a mess. You dont even need core with that thickness. Some early fiberglass boats were built without coring and the decks flexed a bit.... which is more an aesthetic issue than anything.

[jakkum]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I would just leave it. It can become a nightmare recoring and your deck is 3/8" thick! Once you open that can of worms you could be working a long time and making a mess. You dont even need core with that thickness. Some early fiberglass boats were built without coring and the decks flexed a bit.... which is more an aesthetic issue than anything.

3/8 glass and polyester?
Repair the damage you made, put everything back and GP sailing
3/8!!!!

[Secondshift]

No soft spots and it's dry?

You could just fill the core void locally with epoxy / colloidal silica.

Using an epoxy syringe can help. I load the syringe by using a sandwich bag

with a small corner cut off and squeeze it in. Like an icing piping bag.


I would plan on doing all the hardware over time but if it's not leaking and

there are no soft spots you probably already have a lot going on with your

deadline.

Maybe consider checking any critical gear. I like to replace any suspect

hardware as I go.

[zstine]

If is ain't broke, don't fix it. Just Epoxy fill the screws you remove using a syringe and a thin epoxy like UScomposite 635. this usually takes several squirts 30 min to 1 hour apart as it will soak in. good idea to tape around holes, but if you are repainting the deck it probably doesn't matter much... In the areas you are able to remove some soft core, just epoxy fill that with a thickened mix. drill out epoxy to reinstall deck gear after painting.. done. don't bother excavating any fiberglass if it isn't soft/bouncy.

[Disailor]

For drying out core around bolt holes a hair dryer won,t be very effective. While the heat will evaporate some water, the heat will also drive the moisture deeper into the cooler areas of the core.
For a really wet core I make wicks out of pieces of paper towels. This draws the water out to dry air. Next day I tape the the bottom of the hole from below & use a syringe to inject 90% rubbing alcohol. As this dries it takes the water with it. Couple of hours later I drop a small amount of 5 minute epoxy into the hole to seal the bottom. If the thickened epoxy filler is too thick it won't flow into crevasses so I mix it to where it will just about drip off the stick. Fill the syringe, inject the goo & when done go back & add a drop(s) to each hole that is not full.
When epoxy has kicked firm but is not yet hard, eyeball center & drill with a counter sink. As cutting flutes encounter the fiberglas skin it will self center. This will ensure the new bolt hole will line up with the fixture & give you a conical hole that will compress the sealant.
A small amount of butyl tape under the head of the bolt will keep it in the fixture. A butyl donut around the bolt tight to the fixture is next. Set the bolts in the holes & tighten the nuts below while your helper keeps bolts/screws from turning. The donut will squeeze the bolt as it is pulled down tight. As excess butyl oozes out a second tightening will be necessary.
Sound like a lot of work, but the whole point of all this is a permanently water tight deck penetration.