Where should I place the anchor roller in to be clear of the bobstay?

[Taipe]

Originally Posted by AndyEss

I run my snubber from the deck through the bobstay hull fittiing shackle (with chaff protection) and then to the anchor chain. That way if the chit hits the fan (experience can be a fearsome teacher) I can release the snubber and slip the chain if in dire straits.
The bobstay hull fitting is very substantial on a Hans. I have been anchored with middle of the night wind changes, resulting in 3-4 ft seas in the anchorage. My snubbers do wear out fairly quickly (3 - 6 months) but the gain I get from the better rode angle/holding makes me think this is worth it.

Thank you for sharing your method. If you get the chance, it would help to see a couple of pics of the shackle release in order to understand how it is done from the deck and how you re-attach the snubber. Btw, is your hull fitting made of ss and constructed with weld joints, or is it a cast bronze fitting?

[groundtackle]

sailah, you are doing well then. It's just sewing... with fire. I've done lots of instructing and there are many little tricks that all add up. Here is just a few.I can assume you have the basic setups correct. Get really comfortable, chair and work heights. No free handing till you are very accomplished, both wrists need to touch something solid. Roll the work around till perfect or throw a clamp on the work to stabilize those wrists. Practice the pass with the pedal off to confirm your pass. Touch tungsten to the work before hitting pedal, it helps a quicker cleaner start. I don't use a glove on the filler hand.
I get a kick out of folks building their own stuff and it just feels good to make something nice.
I see the electropolishing, those components are difficult if someone only wanted hand polished.
Chris

[AndyEss]

Originally Posted by Taipe

Thank you for sharing your method. If you get the chance, it would help to see a couple of pics of the shackle release in order to understand how it is done from the deck and how you re-attach the snubber. Btw, is your hull fitting made of ss and constructed with weld joints, or is it a cast bronze fitting?

I'll take some pics when I get back to my boat in a couple of weeks. I'm back in the States with some medical issues.
My bobstay hull fitting is SS, from memory probably about 1/2" thick welded plate. As for strength, it has to take the jib and forstay loading from a 55 ft high, cutter rig sailing to windward.
My snubber runs from the samson post (or heavy deck cleat) down the side of my starboard bow (my heavy anchor (Manson 55, 240 ft chain, 60 ft nylon rode) down through a shackle I mounted in the extra ( lower ) bobstay hull fitting and out to the chain rode.
There is no shackle release- just a heavy U- shackle. Anti-chafe on the snubber is critical here.
When anchoring, I release my scope, less the snubber length. I take the free end of the snubber, bring it through the anchor roller opening in the bowsprit, and attach it to the chain rode, by weaving it through 3 to 4 links, and then a couple of half hitches through the links. I then release enough chain that it hangs loose and the snubber picks up the anchor load.
When it's time to retrieve my anchor, I pull up until the snubber and chain have cleared the roller, untie the snubber (a marlinspike helps) pass the snubber back through the anchor roller opening, and walk the snubber back onto the bow and tie it off. Then I retrieve the rest of the rode and anchor.
I'm at anchor typically 9 months of the year, the rest on the hard during hurricane season. I'm only at dock when I go in for some repairs, or like right now when I need to travel away from my boat for more than a couple of days.
I hope my description is clear, but if not, please feel free to comment or question.

[roverhi]

We tied the snubber on with rolling hitches. Not a problem getting it done anchoring 24/7/365. Tie on the snubber and let out chain so all the load is taken by the snubber. Retrieval is the opposite, crank in chain till we could undue the rolling hitches on the snubber and finish cranking in. If we wanted to let out more chain, crank in the chain till we could undue the rolling hitches, let out more chain to the desired amount. retie the rolling hitches and let chain back out. Worked a treat even in 50k reported winds.

Tried a chain hook but it kept falling off unless it was moused so went with the rolling hitches and ditched the hook. We'd remove the snubber from the bobstay fitting, which was just undoing the shackle, for longer passages. Anything under a couple hundred miles, left it in place.

[jhulmer]

Here are few pictures of what I did. Cabo Rico had a very narrow roller close to the sprit (last pic) and I didn't like it. So when I started the refit I decided to widen both sides and beef up the whole works. I will add a removable bail over both anchors. I haven't launched yet but I know this will be a big improvement.


edit: I built the roller for a 44lb Spade, not the CQR you see in the last pic.

[Taipe]

Originally Posted by AndyEss

I'll take some pics when I get back to my boat in a couple of weeks.
There is no shackle release- just a heavy U- shackle. Anti-chafe on the snubber is critical here.
When anchoring, I release my scope, less the snubber length. I take the free end of the snubber, bring it through the anchor roller opening in the bowsprit, and attach it to the chain rode, by weaving it through 3 to 4 links, and then a couple of half hitches through the links. I then release enough chain that it hangs loose and the snubber picks up the anchor load.
When it's time to retrieve my anchor, I pull up until the snubber and chain have cleared the roller, untie the snubber (a marlinspike helps) pass the snubber back through the anchor roller opening, and walk the snubber back onto the bow and tie it off. Then I retrieve the rest of the rode and anchor.

I hope my description is clear, but if not, please feel free to comment or question.

That helps me a little. But like Alice said, "What good is a book w/o pictures?" All the best with the medical issues, and will await the pics.

[Eastward ho 24]

Got the roller on thank you! here's a few pics to show what we came up with. I just need to finish polishing it all up and using a 316ss bolt instead of the all thread shown. I'm thinking I should put an eye bolt on the end as the pardeys show in their video on sea anchor bridle. But at a 1/2 I wonder it's saftey. And I measures my 22 lb POS cqr and actually my new sarca excel is about the same dimensions but far better design.

[Eastward ho 24]

Now on to the windlass . Windlass goes fwd of the Samson posts that's how I've always seen it. Any reason to place it aft?

[groundtackle]

Eastward H, looking great. A few suggestions;
Adding ss cheeks underside and outboard port/stbd of the roller. When the rode angle goes extreme to stbd (mainly) it will start sawing off the corners of the roller. Flaring them slightly also helps to maintain the chain galvanizing. Attempt not rake chain over any sharp corner. Maybe just 6"-8" of 3/4" or whatever round rod with bullet ends, just tacked.
Compression tube around the axle just a fraction wider than the roller will allow you to crank on the bolt and ties it all together.
Not sure how your headstay/ sail is rigged (furling gear I assume). If you are hanks or plan to go that way in case of furling failure - double check if that stay turnbuckle toggle will fit the fwd hole.
Windlass position.. can we see a pic of your bow?
Chris

[Eastward ho 24]

Hmmmm yes I want to add the cheeks having trouble following your description though. I was gonna add a through bolt to the fwd most upper part of the arm to keep the chain, but the excels shank is too robust and I didn't leave enough room. The robust shank is the reason I chose the Excel over a spade. I "think" it was practical sailor who tested shanks and the excels shank was in a leauge of its own as far as bending followed by Manson I think. . From my web search and you tube conclusions. Seems the Excel and spade seem to be the best all around anchors. the excel seems to have the edge because of its shank , and coustomer service.

[Cheechako]

Yes, just use a bridle snubber and locate the roller so the anchor doesnt bang constantly on the sprit.

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

Now on to the windlass . Windlass goes fwd of the Samson posts that's how I've always seen it. Any reason to place it aft?

Like this? Don't see why not when you are using a snubber.

[Eastward ho 24]

Here's a pic of another Dee same set up as mine this one has a seatiger and wooden sprit. I've got room behind my Samson posts( yet to be installed) I could make them short enough that the chain would clear them

[Eastward ho 24]

Forgot to attach

[Eastward ho 24]

That is how my sprit was. My SS sprit is longer and I would have room behind the Samson posts to sit the windlass depending on how long I decide to cut it