Windlass foot switches

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Suijin

.

I really like Maxwell switches. Very durable and reliable. Take one apart (which I did while diagnosing an issue a few years ago) and you’ll be impressed with their simplicity and robust design.

But you will not be impressed by the 2 large holes you cut in the deck and the potential for leaks and rot issues.

[noelex 77]

Foot switches are not very reliable. A switch on the foredeck, the wettest part of the boat, exposed to UV, and designed to be stepped on, is a tough design brief.

A wired and a wireless remote is a better option. It is easier to install, more functional and more reliable. Having two separate options for operating the winch is helpful.

[Jim Cate]

Foot switches are not very reliable. A switch on the foredeck, the wettest part of the boat, exposed to UV, and designed to be stepped on, is a tough design brief.

At least with Maxwell switches, this is not our experience, Nolex. We've owned this boat for aver 15 years now, and the switches were not new when we bought her. As you likely know, we live at anchor and use the windlass quite frequently... and there has been zero trouble with the foot switches. We carry spares (to be honest, we bought a new windlass when the original succumbed to corrosion and repair parts were difficult to acquire in Vanuatu, and we just left the old ones in place, kept the new ones as spares) just to ward off evil.

I certainly trust them far more than some cheap electronic bit purchased from e-bay.

BTW, these are direct switches, not activating a relay so they are not coddled,

Jim

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

At least with Maxwell switches, this is not our experience, Nolex. We've owned this boat for aver 15 years now, and the switches were not new when we bought her. As you likely know, we live at anchor and use the windlass quite frequently... and there has been zero trouble with the foot switches. We carry spares (to be honest, we bought a new windlass when the original succumbed to corrosion and repair parts were difficult to acquire in Vanuatu, and we just left the old ones in place, kept the new ones as spares) just to ward off evil.

I certainly trust them far more than some cheap electronic bit purchased from e-bay.

BTW, these are direct switches, not activating a relay so they are not coddled,

Jim

PS I lied! Only the UP switch is that old... I installed the DOWN switch about 14 years ago.

[Amnesia II]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

If that's the stupidest thing you've done working on a boat, Jim, you should consider yourself very fortunate indeed!

Now, I wouldn't put them at opposing sides of winch otherwise you'll end up doing the crazy man dance if you have to jog the chain up and down. Being right handed, I put mine as far to the right hand side and back as comfortable to operate, with the down button forward of the up button. This seems to work ok, although my favourite mod is to add one of those cheap eBay wireless winch remotes to basically eliminate the need to use the foot switches any way. If you have a contactor installed already, this is an easy mod.

This worked superbly for me too, $13 off eBay, the remote allowed me to drop the anchor unassisted from the helm then make my way forward to the windlass to pay out the desired length of chain scope.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Amnesia II

This worked superbly for me too, $13 off eBay, the remote allowed me to drop the anchor unassisted from the helm then make my way forward to the windlass to pay out the desired length of chain scope.

And if it is your only means of up/down and you are worried about them crapping out at some stage as Jim points out, buy a spare.
$13 will hardly break the bank.

[GaryBode]

Don't put them on a bulkhead or above your head for that matter.

[Reefmagnet]

Originally Posted by Amnesia II

This worked superbly for me too, $13 off eBay, the remote allowed me to drop the anchor unassisted from the helm then make my way forward to the windlass to pay out the desired length of chain scope.

Originally Posted by Simi 60

And if it is your only means of up/down and you are worried about them crapping out at some stage as Jim points out, buy a spare.
$13 will hardly break the bank.

Yes, keep a spare remote. If you're half handy with a soldering iron, the code is programmed by soldering and unsoldering pads on the chip inside the fob if you don't start with a matched pair to begin with. On my previous boat, I sprayed the pcb with polyurethane motor insulation spray to increase the water resistance afterwards, too.

[stormalong]

I too use a cordless control. Before the cordless I had corded up-down winch controls both forward and in the cockpit. They are still in place if needed as backup.

With the cordless control on a lanyard around my neck I can stand anywhere and raise or lower the anchor. I do not need to be planted in one place. I often start the drop from the helm and walk forward as the chain pays out. I can use the deck wash hose with one hand and control the windlass with the other. Being free to move around means I can get the best angle on the deck wash.

I also have a spare fob at the ready. The only time I have used it was when the battery of the other one died.

Did this about fifteen years ago when there were fewer choices and they were a little more expensive. At $13 you can buy a complete spare or two.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

At least with Maxwell switches, this is not our experience, Nolex. We've owned this boat for aver 15 years now, and the switches were not new when we bought her. As you likely know, we live at anchor and use the windlass quite frequently... and there has been zero trouble with the foot switches.

I agree the Maxwell/Muir foot switches are the best. They have big copper contacts instead of the microswitches used by the other models.

I installed one of these on our last yacht to replace the Lewmar foot switch installed by the previous owner (be-aware that they need a larger deck cut out). My experience was not as positive. It developed a crack where one of the bolts was countersunk into the plastic rim. To be fair it was still working fine although I rarely used it.

A good rule of thumb for a cruising boat is that deck gear should be able to survive a good kick with a sea boot or a wack with a winch handle. No deck switches pass this simple criterion.

Rather than cutting a big hole (or two) in your deck I think a couple of remotes are a better option. With a good wireless remote you are unlikely to ever use the deck switches anyway.

Having said the above, if you want to install foot switches, one option worth considering is using the Maxwell/Muir footswitces as a direct switch without a solenoid, as Jim has done. It is only rated for 120A, which is a little low for some of the larger windlass models, but if your windlass is suitable, at least the foot switch provides the useful function as a back up in the event of solenoid failure.

The most common anchor winch problem is a failure of the solenoid. This will stop all the remotes and most foot switches from working, but the Maxwell/Muir foot switches can be wired to work without the solenoid. This at least means they are providing some useful redundancy that is not viable with other options.

There are other ways of dealing quickly with a solenoid failure and it is worth having a plan for this common weak spot.

[Suijin]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

I agree the Maxwell/Muir foot switches are the best. They have big copper contacts instead of the microswitches used by the other models.



The most common anchor winch problem is a failure of the solenoid. This will stop all the remotes and most foot switches from working, but the Maxwell/Muir foot switches can be wired to work without the solenoid. This at least means they are providing some useful redundancy that is not viable with other options.



There are other ways of dealing quickly with a solenoid failure and it is worth having a plan for this common weak spot.

The only weakness of the Maxwell switches that I can see is the relatively flimsy covers and the rubber covers. The plastic covers are pretty much for preventing accidental activation. The rubber covers appear pretty robust and thick, but something to add to a maintenance inspection routine. The rest of the switch is bulletproof.

That said I’d love to know how to wire the windlass up to bypass the solenoid. It’s the Achilles heel of windlasses speaking from experience. A short description of the method would be most appreciated as I’m no electrician.

[Jim Cate]

That said I’d love to know how to wire the windlass up to bypass the solenoid. It’s the Achilles heel of windlasses speaking from experience. A short description of the method would be most appreciated as I’m no electrician.
_

It's simple: big wire from circuit breaker to one side of switch. Large wire from other side of switch direct to terminal on motor. Thus it is in parallel with the circuit from breaker to solenoid to motor, and each can operate the motor on their own.

Jim

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Suijin

That said I’d love to know how to wire the windlass up to bypass the solenoid. It’s the Achilles heel of windlasses speaking from experience. A short description of the method would be most appreciated as I’m no electrician.

The solenoid is nothing more than a high current relay. It switches the high current load so that the foot switches need only carry the current necessary to activate the solenoid. A good look at the wiring diagram or some simple tests with a multimeter will show where the power is being applied to the motor. On a series wound motor there is only point where power is applied for forward and another point for reverse.

Mine is now over 25 years old and going strong. If you have a lot of solenoid failures you need one that can handle more current. The inrush current to start the motor moving is very high. Also, when the power is shut off the motor will act as a generator for a short time causing a high voltage spike across the contacts. Look at de-arcing circuits. A combination of diodes and capacitors to prevent arcing.

[ggray]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

It's simple: big wire from circuit breaker to one side of switch. Large wire from other side of switch direct to terminal on motor. Thus it is in parallel with the circuit from breaker to solenoid to motor, and each can operate the motor on their own.

Jim

Don't you need a real heavy duty switch to handle the current, should the solenoid not activate?

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by ggray

Don't you need a real heavy duty switch to handle the current, should the solenoid not activate?

Well, yes... that's what the foot switch is supposed to be! And in the case of the Maxwell switches, they really are. As i said earlier, we live at anchor and use the windlass frequently, and our switches are now at least 15 years old, likely 28 (don't kknow if the previous owner ever replaced them, but don't think he did.)

Jim